Steph's Tiger Tenor Uke

[kiwigeo]

Stepping back to the discussion on Chladni patterns, my reading suggests that it's hard, maybe even impossible, to transpose that work to something as tiny as a ukulele. The top, back, sides and bracing interact so much, certainly on sopranos, that I suspect that the research on guitars may not be much use.

But I write from very little practical experience - I've made only a dozen ukes. However, the most recent ones turned out well, in that they are much louder than you'd expect while still producing a good tone. In all of these the back and side vibrate like mad when playing - it's clear that the whole body is working together to make the sound, rather than it coming mainly from the top. This also seems to be true of the good ukes belonging to others which I've played. If the whole body doesn't come alive when playing, it usually sounds pretty meh.

Ultra-light construction seems to be the key, with top/back/sides thickness (in hardwoods) in the 1.5mm to 1.8mm range, and probably at the lower end of that range.

This one looks very nice, both in appearance and in construction (far more accurate than I can manage). I hope it turns out sounding as good - I gather that even for very experienced uke builders, whether it turns out to sound excellent,or merely good, can be rather a lottery.

Searching for the BOING seems like a good strategy!

Thanks for the comments Prof. I had a play around with the tone generator and speaker yesterday once Id closed up the box and results have been interesting. A strong monopole at around 200Hz which would be the Helmoltz frequency of the instrument. The previous day I had a weaker response at around 60Hz but after sanding down the top a bit (now around 1.5mm around lower bout) around it's periphery that response has disappeared. I notice alot of builders seem to go with a live back so I'm going to sand back the periphery of the back to liven it up a bit. The sides ended up a bit on the thick side also so will try and sand back a bit there as well.

All a learning experience....

[jeffhigh]

I just tap tested my tenor through virtual analyser and got peaks at 204 (air) and 367 (top)

[kiwigeo]

I just tap tested my tenor through virtual analyser and got peaks at 204 (air) and 367 (top)

Thanks Jeff.

[kiwigeo]

Managed to get the topside bindings done today......I'm old fashioned and stubborn so bindings were bent up on an iron which took ages. Hand bending binding and sides on a classical isn't a huge task but on a uke the curve radii are alot tighter. I usually use macrame rope to snug up bindings on my classicals but on the uke I opted for LMI binding tape. My secret weapon is the photographers sealing iron I bought for fitting the top on my lute. This tool is a must have IMHO.....great for heating up and retaping sections of binding that aren't quite snug in the routed channel. The binding I finally decided on...well I don't know exactly what the hell it is but I got it from Tim and it seems to go well with both the sitka top and the tiger myrtle back and sides. In hindsight I should have inserted some bwb purflings behind the binding on the top and back....when installing bare bindings the fit in the channel has to be perfect or gaps become obvious. Purfs give you a bit of leeway of binding fit isn't perfect.

[68matts]

It's coming along nicely, I'm looking forward to seeing it finished, tiger myrtle is one of the most striking timbers imho.
I also done the binding's on a tenor uke today and some purfling would have been very helpful, I've got some gaps you could lose your arm in, nothing a couple of sticks of wax won't hide ( I hope ).

[kiwigeo]

Last of the bindings glued in......was that a sh*t of a job! Tomorrow my favourite job...scraping back bindings.

[Kim]

The date of the build...22/01/12.....my 54th birthday.

Happy birthday for the 22nd mate, the uke she comes along very nicely indeed

Is the lining same size as would be used in a guitar ? and what make is it or did you make it?

Hey Rob,

You can make your own kerfed linings quick and easy at what ever dimension and kerf spacing you desire with a Ksled.

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=2443

On the other hand solid linings are pretty good as well.

Cheers

Kim

[Allen]

Ya, everyone thinks because it's a uke, they will be easy to build. Something to get you started on before you jump into the serious business of guitars. I find while a guitar is a bit more time consuming because of the size and extra bracing, a uke is a heck of a lot more challenging to put together. All those curves are just so tight.

It's all looking very sharp and tidy Martin.

[kiwigeo]

Ya, everyone thinks because it's a uke, they will be easy to build. Something to get you started on before you jump into the serious business of guitars. I find while a guitar is a bit more time consuming because of the size and extra bracing, a uke is a heck of a lot more challenging to put together. All those curves are just so tight.

It's all looking very sharp and tidy Martin.

Thanks Allen,

Many true words there.....I reckon if id succeeded in getting the ebony bindings to bend into those waist bends I'd be up for an Order of Australia Award.

One question Allen....are the backs of you ukes live? This one has a fairly thin back which has a bit of flex in it but Im planning to thin down the periphery of the back to allow more flex.

[Allen]

Yes. Pretty much every part of a good uke will vibrate like mad. I've had the most success in making them light and lively.

[auscab]

[quote="Kim

Is the lining same size as would be used in a guitar ? and what make is it or did you make it?

Hey Rob,

You can make your own kerfed linings quick and easy at what ever dimension and kerf spacing you desire with a Ksled.

viewtopic.php?f=24&t=2443


Kim[/quote]


Thanks for the link Kim.
I did find that link It must have been eight months back ? Once I got my head around it and also after seeing Keith McKenzie’s motorized version on Youtube ,I built one. Powered by a 12v windscreen wiper motor from a CF Bedford.

I just have to decide now what type of lining I will cut on the jig and which way I will set it up to do that. I'm thinking of a traditional Martin style Mahogany and also doing a stash of separate "Tentalones "? right name ?

Having the motorized version has been a laugh, set it up turn it on and do a cut on a length of timber and visitors cant believe it . the same reaction I had when I first saw the push manual version then the motorized.
My version is not as slick as Keith’s , a bit more Flintstones influence in it I think.

Martin, Happy 54th for the other day

[kiwigeo]

Not much work done on the uke today......busy doing other things like thrashing it on my bike and playing the dutiful husband.

All I got done was pulling off the binding tape on the back bindings and doing a quick scrape job on same. The bindings seem to go ok with the Tiger Myrtle.

[kiwigeo]

Fretboard jigged up and fretted and ready for gluing on.

[auscab]

Do you hammer frets in Martin or have you upgraded to a press ?

Or do you think a press is not necessary ?

I keep seeing a type of pipe clamp on E bay that I would think would convert to a decent press for frets, with a bit of a tinker.

[kiwigeo]

Do you hammer frets in Martin or have you upgraded to a press ?

Or do you think a press is not necessary ?

I keep seeing a type of pipe clamp on E bay that I would think would convert to a decent press for frets, with a bit of a tinker.

I'm a hammerer.....I find it helps release tension. I do have a set of Stewmac Jaws cauls for my drill press but havent yet used them.

[Kim]

That's going to be one classy looking uke Marty, tigerM b&s, bearclaw with tasteful BwbwB rose, ebony FB, Waverley...and a set of Aussie Tonewood's

dnose.jpg (9.55 KiB) Viewed 16716 times

bindings!!!!! Man I bet Steph is gonna be thrilled.

Cheers

Kim

[kiwigeo]

Yep Sis' should be happy with the uke.....I'm going to try and get it finished in time for her birthday in March.

It's been an interesting build......a bit more challenging than I thought it would be.

One question for Allen or Jeremy.....what is common compensation at saddle for a tenor uke? Plans I'm using don't appear to have allowed for compensation in placement of bridge (ie saddle shown at theoretical distance from nut not compensated distance).

[ProfChris]

There's a compensation table here:

http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/compensate.html

(in inches, but can be converted quite easily).

This suggests around 1mm for G, E and A (if you're using re-entrant tuning) and around 2.5mm for C.

But ukes are very sensitive to different brands of string and to action height, so these are only "thereabouts" figures.

I'd tend to err on the side of over-compensation because a player can simply press a little harder as they go up the neck (and may well do so anyway), thus bringing it up to note.

If, though, you've produced a very low action, and your sister is likely to be a gentle player, then 1mm/2.25mm will probably be about right.

If you don't compensate the C string more then go around 1.5mm for a straight saddle.

Sopranos are much easier in this respect because the ultra-short scale means the intonation is never better than approximate. As a heavy-handed strummer I go for 2.5-3mm action at the 12th, and compensate 3mm.

(and do re-check my numbers before you cut or sand anything!)

[Allen]

I put about the 1mm compensation on but use a 3.2mm saddle so I've got some room to move them back a bit if needed. And as Chris said, they are super sensitive to string brand and all the other things that will affect intonation.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks Chris and Allen. I was aware that string make and type can be a factor.

[kiwigeo]

Frickin' hell......spent all yesterday trying to find my Stewmac fret file. Gave up and ordered a new one this morning...went out to the shop and had another look under one of my shelf units and there was the bldi file.

[charangohabsburg]

The australian luthier community will applaud you Martin: you just made the first step for going to be the first australian Stewmac chain store!

[Nick]

Frickin' hell......spent all yesterday trying to find my Stewmac fret file. Gave up and ordered a new one this morning...went out to the shop and had another look under one of my shelf units and there was the bldi file.

Always the way or the other undies twister is when you chuck something out after it's been taking up shelf space for years & hasn't been used then a week later you want it & you're half an hour into a mad & frustrating hunt before you remembered you've hiffed it. (usually timber offcuts with me)

[kiwigeo]

I put about the 1mm compensation on but use a 3.2mm saddle so I've got some room to move them back a bit if needed. And as Chris said, they are super sensitive to string brand and all the other things that will affect intonation.

Allen/Chris,

I propose to position the bridge to front edge of saddle at scale length plus 1.0mm from nut. With a 3.2mm wide saddle this will give me an additional +3.2mm of compensation to play with. Do you see any problems with this plan?


Cheers and thanks Martin

[J.F. Custom]

One question for Allen or Jeremy.....

Not much point in me adding anything further on that now... Sorry for the late pickup Martin but at least you have the answer you wished for.

In any case, it's looking good mate and coming along very quickly too. Surely she is going to love it - Waverley Tuners?? Don't beat around the bush do you?

So that file... DOH! But err, it doesn't happen to be the diamond coated fret file does it? If so, I may be interested if you don't need the two...

Also had meant to ask where you got that electric photographers sealing iron from? Quite a handy tool I'm thinking.

Finally, out of interest peaked by you and Jeff today, I also checked a Tenor Uke of mine and found it had a peak of 201Hz (air) which seems about appropriate. Low G on a tenor is 196Hz and David Hurd says that approx air res on a Tenor is ~195Hz; though two of his Tenors he shows the frequency graph of were more like 211Hz and 214Hz. See here -

http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/sounds.html

and here -

http://www.ukuleles.com/SetupnCare/TenorTune.html

My next peak on this instrument was at 396Hz I think (top monopole), which is alongside the (reentrant style tuning) High G found at 392Hz. The two instruments mentioned above that David shows vary even further - they have approx. 340Hz and 390Hz respectively. Some interesting info on tunings and average cumulative string tensions here -

http://www.ukuleles.com/Technology/strings.html

Oh and Happy belated birthday Martin.

Jeremy.

PS - just saw your next post on compensation as I was writing this. I believe what you are suggesting there is exactly what Allen meant he does.