Sealing bindings/ purflings before pore filling alternates

[Jules93]

I’ve chosen to use OSMO polyx original
To finish my guitar

I’ve got spruce top wooden bindings and purflings
I don’t have a huge amount of ventilation so non toxic and low odour would be helpful

One thing I thought of was just taping it off with low tac painters tape and tape newspaper to the top would that be a possible option
If not help would be advised

[TallDad71]

It’s not clear to me what your question or problem is. Could you redraft it at all?

[kiwigeo]

As Talldad notes the question isn't clear. Are you talking about masking off top and bindings so you can pore fill the sides?

Re taping newspaper to the top.....I wouldn't do that. Any solvent will leach out the ink and stain your top.

[Jules93]

Yeah that’s pretty much what I was getting at
Sorry for the bad wording,

Ok well I certainly won’t tape of the binding and top like that so looks like I’ll just seal top and bindings with shellac.

Another instruction they mention is wiping oily wood like rosewood with with thinners or spirits to get rid of the excess oil so I’m assuming I need to get rid of that before pore filling

last but not least,

Should I glue the bridge first incase any oils go through the tape or is it safe to mask the bridge location off

I’ve seen videos of Chris Wayne finishing his with danish oil already having the bridge installed obviously it’s another type of oil finish which is why I’m
Asking that

Hopefully I have worded this better

[kiwigeo]

Yeah that’s pretty much what I was getting at
Sorry for the bad wording,

Ok well I certainly won’t tape of the binding and top like that so looks like I’ll just seal top and bindings with shellac.

Another instruction they mention is wiping oily wood like rosewood with with thinners or spirits to get rid of the excess oil so I’m assuming I need to get rid of that before pore filling

last but not least,

Should I glue the bridge first incase any oils go through the tape or is it safe to mask the bridge location off

I’ve seen videos of Chris Wayne finishing his with danish oil already having the bridge installed obviously it’s another type of oil finish which is why I’m
Asking that

Hopefully I have worded this better

What method are you using to pore fill the sides? What wood are the bindings?

When I pore fill sides I don't bother sealing the binding. I do the pore fill and then use a scraper to remove any pore fill from the bindings.

Wiping rosewood prior to finishing...I don't do it prior to french polishing. I don't see a need to do it prior to pore filling.....if youre using any sort of solvent (eg meths) in the pore filling process the colour leeched out of the rosewood will colour up the pore filling agent and actually work for you.

The bridge.....if using an oil finish Id probably fit the bridge on first.

[Bob_H]

Let us know how you go.

What are you using for pore fill? I've finished with PolyX a few times, and have not pore filled because I was unsure about how best to pore fill under an oil based finish. Even without pore filling, I've been pretty happy with the PolyX.

[Mark McLean]

First issue to decide is whether you want to fill the pores at all. It is completely possible to apply finish without doing any pore filling. This is often my preferred method, especially with an oil finish, as I am often going for a more natural wood satin look, However, if you want a really glossy and completely smooth “pane of glass over the wood” type of look which is common in factory built guitars then you definitely need to pore fill. However, that type of look is best achieved with a sprayed lacquer finish rather than a hand-applied oil. So, what is your desired finish effect, and what wood are we talking about?

If you do decide to pore fill there are lots of options. Epoxy is one of the most common ones, but there are others, varying from CA glue to various water-based compounds, to Timbermate wood filler, to egg whites. Your preference for non-volatile and non-toxic might take you towards the end of that list rather than the first two. You don’t need to pore fill your spruce top, but you probably do want to do the bindings if they are a hardwood with pores.

Most people finish the whole box before gluing the bridge on. This is because it gets in the way of sanding and leveling, and you don’t want excess finish building up around the edge of the bridge, or getting on the bridge. It is just a lot easier to finish the top of the guitar if the bridge isn’t there. Once it has dried and hardened you then remove the finish on the part of the top where the bridge goes. Not too hard to do and ends up looking neater.

[Jules93]

before i respond Just want to thank you all for your all your contribution to this topic it means alot.

ok first off building J45 which is my first guitar and Ive decided on the polyx Satin applied by rag


timber/ tonewoods (only the exposed)

Top: Italian bear-claw spruce
BnS: indian rosewood
Fretboard: Ebony B grade (obviously not using the finish on it)
bridge: Indian Rosewood
binding and end piece: mahogany
Purflings: dyed maple (only on the top)
neck: spanish Cedar (i think)
Headstock veneer: indian rosewood
Heel cap: indian rosewood
trussrod cover: indian rosewood

if i was to pore fill i'd use Timbermate
in saying that how does a non pore filled finish feel when playing or in general
cause i'm considering not filling the pores after comments above


so far i'll stick with the products recommendation to wipe over the rosewood parts using their brand of solvent considering i'm going with their brand of finish.
as far as advice from comments above
i'll glue the bridge first.

last couple of things
if using a rag do i pour some finish and work it in or do i simply dip the rag straight into it.
any advice on application methods are also welcomed

fire safety,
whats the best way of disposing of rags ect safely cause i'm assuming you cant use the same rag for each coat

cheers again,
Jules

[kiwigeo]

fire safety,
whats the best way of disposing of rags ect safely cause i'm assuming you cant use the same rag for each coat

Hang them out fully dry before disposal

[Jules93]

Where would be the best place to hang them
Some say they lay it in the shade or leave flat out on the drive way

What is the safest way Cause I also have little kids under 4

And do I do the same with the thinners rag?
Or can I put it in an air tight container and use again

Also as mentioned above as far as applying the finish
Do I pour finish on the guitar or dip the cloth into the finish

[kiwigeo]

Where would be the best place to hang them
Some say they lay it in the shade or leave flat out on the drive way

What is the safest way Cause I also have little kids under 4

And do I do the same with the thinners rag?
Or can I put it in an air tight container and use again

Also as mentioned above as far as applying the finish
Do I pour finish on the guitar or dip the cloth into the finish

https://www.mfs.sa.gov.au/community/saf ... combustion

http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?t=9534

[Mark McLean]

Here is an interesting video about the spontaneously combusting rags question. Bear in mind that what you are planning to use is essentially equivalent to Rubio monocoat which is one of the products used in this experiment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Gqi2cNCKQY&t=1149s

[Mark McLean]

Coming back to the pore filling question:
East Indian Rosewood often has quite a lot of pores, but it can vary significantly between pieces. If you want a perfectly smooth professional finish with zero pores to be seen or felt most people would use epoxy. Timbermate might get you close after 2 or 3 applications. However, my preferred approach is to use wet sanding with your first coat of oil finish, or with a sizing agent like egg whites, to fill the biggest pores but to let some texture and natural wood appearance persist. What you do is to carefully sand the whole piece through the grits up to at least 400, or more. Then vacuum and wipe with a tack cloth or cloth lightly moistened with metho or Shelite. Inspect closely for any finish defects. When it seems good you do the following. You can use a couple of separated egg whites which are lightly whipped but still good and liquid. Alternatively use some of your intended oil finish. Pour about a thimble-full (2-4 mls) of the oil, or eggwhite mix directly onto an area of the guitar back or sides. Use 400 or 600 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and sand a limited area (e.g 10-20 percent of the the guitar back) at a time using the oil or egg-whites as a thick lubricant. This will raise a slurry of fine sawdust mixed with liquid. Rub this in well, with the grain. The fine dust will fill the pore holes. Work it in well with the sandpaper and then with bare fingertips. Finally, wipe excess off across the grain using a soft cloth or paper towel. Move on to the next area, and cover all of the back or side, then allow it to dry. The dust and liquid slurry will fill the majority of the pores and then will set permanently, leaving a much smoother surface. You can then do a light dry sand and vacuum before starting with the final finish coats. The dark IRW slurry will inevitably get on your lighter bindings and maybe the spruce too. A light wipe with shellac prior to the pore filling can seal them, and then scraping or sanding afterwards with 400-600 will clean them off. Finish coats of oil based finish go well over both egg white or oil used at the pore filling stage. You can practice the whole process on scrap to get confidence.