Post
by Mark McLean » Fri Oct 26, 2018 9:34 am
You need to be fussing about with clamps and checking that it is staying in position - so cleaning out the holes is not going to be a priority at the time. Do it like Martin said and clean that later (pin hole reamer is my recommendation).
You have an issue with some of the top ply coming off outside of the bridge footprint. That is likely to leave a noticable defect in the finish once it is glued back, but you might get lucky and have it sit down nicely. A tip for bridge removal next time would be to use heat to soften the glue and work a thin palate knife all the way around the edge to try to get clean separation. But sometimes it just comes off ugly!
You need long throat bridge clamps, and at least 2 or 3 of them. Nothing else really does this job (unless you want to get into vacuum clamping). Various brands are available (Fox, Ibex) from various online sellers (StewMac, LMI, Amazon, eBay). You also need to make a scrap wood caul to go inside against the bridge plate, shaped like the bridge plate so that it fits between the X-braces. This is what the clamps push against on the inside. You need to cover this caul with something that stops glue squeeze-out from permanently gluing the caul inside your guitar. Kitchen baking paper (greaseproof paper) works for that.
Another problem is that the glue makes the bridge slip around on the top of the guitar as you fiddle with the clamps. You need it to go in EXACTLY the right place. I use the trick of a couple of 1.5mm nails (panel pins) as locating pins; others may advise other variations on this theme. You drill 2 small holes through the bottom of the saddle slot (so they will be invisible later) using a 1.5 or 2mm drill bit. Check that your panel pins can slide through these holes, but with a fairly snug fit. Locate the bridge in the correct position (dry fit, no glue) and clamp it there (good opportunity for a practice run with the clamps). Check measurements, and then place your panel pins in the pre-drilled holes and bang them into the soundboard (yes, at this point you are literally hammering some nails into your guitar!). When they are firmly embedded in the soundboard and bridge plate, cut the heads off the nails using a fret cutter or big-ass pliers. Now it should be possible to remove the clamps and lift the bridge off, leaving the locating pins embedded in the top. You now have a method of placing the bridge back in the exact same position when you want to glue it, and the pins will stop it from floating around.
Titebond Original is your go-to glue. Hot hide glue even better, but more complex. There will be some squeeze-out to clean up after clamping. Keep it clamped at least 8 hours. Wait 24 hours before you remove the locating pins with pliers, ream out the pin holes and string it up.
If you haven't done this before I suggest looking at some Youtube videos before you start. I am sure Robbie O'Brien or John Hall have done ones that would walk you through it. Good luck.......
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