Binding The only way out?

[old_picker]

Last post for 2017 and I'd like to say peace filled Xmas and bright and happy 2018 to one and all.

Last day in the workshop produced this little "bu#@$% it" moment below. First time using Pau Ferro and found it to be brittle and definitely not liking my sharp block plane against the grain even on a pretty steep angle. I thought momentarily of super glue and shavings particularly seeing as it's on the bottom edge of the board.

I thought hmm it'll be a bit of a fiddle and it will probably look like its been fiddled. I decided it was time to do a bound fingerboard which I've not done before. Having it glued to the shaft, radiused and slotted its not an ideal situation. The fretwork or binding the board doesnt bother me it is the head stock that looks a little tricky. I have the stewmac handy dandy binding router guide on its way which looks pretty easy to use.

Any thoughts?

[kiwigeo]

Options:

1. If minor chip out then Bevel edge
2. Bind the fretboard.
3. Lift old fretboard off and make up a new one...Ive done this more than once. Just make sure your wife doesn't notice the iron is missing fro the laundry.

[vandenboom]

You could bind fb with something very close in colour to fb and don't bother wirh hstock.

[blackalex1952]

Don't forget if you don't already have one, the fret tang nipper for bound fret ends.
Ross

[kiwigeo]

You could bind fb with something very close in colour to fb and don't bother wirh hstock.

Definitely an option

[TallDad71]

Got to say I love bound fretboards, especially when the fret ends have been hidden.

They take for ever to fret up but the result is worth it. Whilst I am there I try to round off the fret ends rather than bevel. Looks great but it’s a day you’ll never get back.

[old_picker]

don't have a tang nipper and looking at the local ones [allparts] and at $175 it would need to be damn good. Apparently there is a manual sheet metal nibbler tool luthiers use in america that is good as a nipper after some slight modification. They sell for US$15.00

Any tips?

[blackalex1952]

http://southerntonewoods.com.au/product/tang-nippers-3/

The guys name is Frank and he's a good fellow. -Ross

[blackalex1952]

If you want to wait for the international post, I found these. Don't know if they are any good but cheap!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GuitarTechs ... 1107329606

[vandenboom]

I don't have a tang nipper. I use this little jig to hold fretwire upside down and file tang off. Takes 30 mins to make. Every now & then i have to cut a a new 'trench' in the ply. Works gine for me. Frank

[blackalex1952]

Ross

don't have a tang nipper. I use this little jig to hold fretwire upside down and file tang off. Takes 30 mins to make. Every now & then i have to cut a a new 'trench' in the ply.

Great tool! Yes, the tang nipper gets most of the job done, but file dressing is needed as well to get the frets to sit professionally in my opinion. Can do the whole thing without the nipper using one of these jigs. How about a mod to the jig to also round the fret ends as well for the spherical fret end look and feel? Could also mod for multiple frets at one filing, along with a way of fine tuning the fret lengths at the same time.One of the trickiest things to nail with spherical fret ends and tangs, given that the frets need to be over radiused before pressing is getting the bullet ends lined up evenly once pressed into place. Streamlining that work would be a good thing.
-Ross

[Fisherman]

If you want to wait for the international post, I found these. Don't know if they are any good but cheap!
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GuitarTechs ... 1107329606

I got one of these a while back and it doesnt nibble properly - it just bends the fret ends and distorts them out of shape... maybe someone else will get lucky with a pair that works and I just got a dodgy one.

[Steve.Toscano]

Might be time for a scalloped fretboard acoustic!

[kiwigeo]

Might be time for a scalloped fretboard acoustic!

ROFL...that's think way outside the square. How about a fretboardless fretboard???

[old_picker]

ROFL...that's think way outside the square. How about a fretboardless fretboard???

as pioneered by Leo Fender in 1949?

The groove jig looks like a low tech approach that is appealing so likely go that way. Having my frets cut to the perfect width with bullet ends pre shaped is out of my skill range atm.

Thinking of using a maple binding which will approximate FB edge conditions on a one piece maple neck. My standard approach will apply. Cutting, beveling, then shaping fret ends jas little or no effect on the binding edge. I roll the FB edges after bevel and before fret end shaping.

After edge sanding the neck I find much of the chipping has vanished. Before I rip the binding channels, I wil try the following exercise I have a piece of thick teflon sheet I'll clamp behind the chip making a void I can stuff with shredded pau ferro ferro shavings and sawdust.
After flooding with CA glue it should set up well enough. After sanding and leveling I'll see how it looks.

A greasy hand constantly on this vulnerable junction of unfinished fingerboard and lacquered neck edge likely negates this type of repair. I have used shredded wood shavings and sawdust to fill fingernail gouges in worn fingerboards with pretty near invisible results.
any thoughts on this approach?

[vandenboom]

I would have the same question/concern given the fix location. Would epoxy be better than CA?

[kiwigeo]

I would have the same question/concern given the fix location. Would epoxy be better than CA?

+1

[old_picker]

thanks chaps - I've found Pau Ferro binding locally Whoo Hoo - Vandenbooms suggestions are gold - Epoxy vs CA and binding with similar material - I'll try a fill first then go the binding if I have too

[old_picker]

Just to flesh the epoxy idea out a little I have a question. I can get West Systems G/flex® 650 about 40mins from here.

I 've used Titebond original made into a putty like consistency with sawdust and found it's fine for small holes and dings. Not applicable in this situation. I've also used low viscosity CA which works well as it soaks right through a void that has been densely packed with dust and shredded shavings. The results look very good on gouged out fingerboards.

I have never used epoxy in this type of application and wonder how it would compare to CA in strength.
Any comments or suggestions would be helpful.

[simso]

It looks so minor, I would be pretty confident that you could graft some wood back in and it would be barely noticeable, especially when it’s been fretted and strung up

Steve

[demonx]

I've avoided commenting on this since it sounds like your process is much different to mine, however here's my 2c.

I would never have used a plane on a fingerboard edge to start with, and if I had it definitely wouldn't have been after fret slots were cut as it's an invitation for this to happen. So thought one, make sure it never happens again. I use a linisher (bigboy sander) for the fingerboard edges, no chance of this damage if sanding as opposed to using blades. Before I owned a linisher I had a long aluminium block with sandpaper glued to it which is clamp to the bench.

Next, your repair. I wouldn't fill as it could look ugly with colour variations and I'm not sure why there's talk of routing. I've never once routed a fingerboard for binding. Bodies etc yes, but everyone I know glues the board binding direct to the edge, then it's taken flush top and bottom of the board. No need to route and it's always nice and neat.

So in summary, the simplest easiest fix is to linish the edges to accommodate binding and then just glue binding.

As far as not owning fret tang trimmers, before tang trimmers existed, people just made a vertical and horizontal cut with nippers and then filed, many people still do this. Tang nippers you still need to file, just not quite as much.

Hope this helps.

[simso]

As far as not owning fret tang trimmers, before tang trimmers existed, people just made a vertical and horizontal cut with nippers and then filed, many people still do this. Tang nippers you still need to file, just not quite as much.

Yep, have a couple of versions of tang nippers, but i always file afterwards, they remove the bulk of the area.

I remember never having nippers, I would use a dremel to hog the bulk out.

Steve