Hey everyone,
Time to finish the weissenborn copy.
Recently I finished the Concert Uke using Hard Shellac. It was applied with a brush and was an ok job. A few times I needed to sand back a coat because of runs. I have purchased the new formula Hard Shellac for the job as the old product I believe caused problems with crazing.
Can anyone suggest a means of application? I have read about the use of a foam brush? How do you make the application pads they use in French Polish and out of what?
I have read plenty of info on the internet regard French Polish however there are a few different methods out there!
Any tips or first hand use of Hard Shellac, greatly received.
Cheers
Alan
Finishing With Hard Shellac
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ozziebluesman
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sebastiaan56
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Hi Alan,
Ive always applied it using a "rubber" as described in Neil's finishing book. http://www.ubeaut.com.au/book.html It is a French Polishing technique. Ive not had any problems with checking but then again I probably put a lot less on than you would with a spray or brush. One important tip is to always spirit off as comprehensively as you can, it really does affect the final finish.
I love the stuff, Ive used it on other woodworking projects with great results, but have never spreayed it,
Ive always applied it using a "rubber" as described in Neil's finishing book. http://www.ubeaut.com.au/book.html It is a French Polishing technique. Ive not had any problems with checking but then again I probably put a lot less on than you would with a spray or brush. One important tip is to always spirit off as comprehensively as you can, it really does affect the final finish.
I love the stuff, Ive used it on other woodworking projects with great results, but have never spreayed it,
make mine fifths........
Alan,
I used a nice soft varnish brush with HS on 3 guitars and that worked OK but I have a sprayer now and that is heaps better. The finish came out fine using a brush but it was just a lot of work sanding and recoating.
From what I have learned by doing (someone may have better suggestions) when using a brush, whatever type, you want the finish to flow out wet rather than paint it on. Don't overlap your strokes as it will create high ridges.
And just keep your brush strokes to a minimum and try and resist the temptation to touch it up. It always seems to backfire and you end up doing more sanding. I think a foam brush would probably be about the same.
And maybe thin a bit so it flows better.
Better still, get a sprayer. They are cheap these days.
Hope this helps.
Dom
I used a nice soft varnish brush with HS on 3 guitars and that worked OK but I have a sprayer now and that is heaps better. The finish came out fine using a brush but it was just a lot of work sanding and recoating.
From what I have learned by doing (someone may have better suggestions) when using a brush, whatever type, you want the finish to flow out wet rather than paint it on. Don't overlap your strokes as it will create high ridges.
And just keep your brush strokes to a minimum and try and resist the temptation to touch it up. It always seems to backfire and you end up doing more sanding. I think a foam brush would probably be about the same.
And maybe thin a bit so it flows better.
Better still, get a sprayer. They are cheap these days.
Hope this helps.
Dom
You can bomb the world to pieces,
but you can't bomb the world to peace!
but you can't bomb the world to peace!
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Jim Howell
- Wandoo
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- Location: Michigan, USA
Alan--
You are likely to get a couple of different ideas about what to make a muneca (application pad) out of. I use old linen (made from flax) table cloths that I get on e-Bay, usually for under $5.00 USD. I cut/tear them into 4 to 5 inch squares and use them for the covers. The inside of the pad is made from old rag wool boot socks. The heavier the weave, the better. I cut three or four circles of the wool in descending diameters starting at about 1 inch. These get sewn (by two or three stitches) into a cone. I soak these pretty well in shellac and then place them in a plastic container with a sealable lid for storage. Three or four drops of alcohol in the container keeps them from becoming rock hard. A couple of days and they are ready for FP. I apply shellac pretty much by the Milburn Brothers FP tutorial: http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html
Others have had good results using well washed/used cotton tee shirts. I think that the main differences in material are the amount of pressure that you use when applying and the amount of shellac and alcohol that you put on the pad. I really like the FP process, but it does take a little practice. Good luck with yours![/url]
You are likely to get a couple of different ideas about what to make a muneca (application pad) out of. I use old linen (made from flax) table cloths that I get on e-Bay, usually for under $5.00 USD. I cut/tear them into 4 to 5 inch squares and use them for the covers. The inside of the pad is made from old rag wool boot socks. The heavier the weave, the better. I cut three or four circles of the wool in descending diameters starting at about 1 inch. These get sewn (by two or three stitches) into a cone. I soak these pretty well in shellac and then place them in a plastic container with a sealable lid for storage. Three or four drops of alcohol in the container keeps them from becoming rock hard. A couple of days and they are ready for FP. I apply shellac pretty much by the Milburn Brothers FP tutorial: http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html
Others have had good results using well washed/used cotton tee shirts. I think that the main differences in material are the amount of pressure that you use when applying and the amount of shellac and alcohol that you put on the pad. I really like the FP process, but it does take a little practice. Good luck with yours![/url]
_____________
Jim Howell
Lakeland, MI USA
Jim Howell
Lakeland, MI USA
Alan,
Some comments:
1. One of the best starting points for french polishing guitars is the Milburn brothers tutorial http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html
A bit dated in one or two places (eg pore filling) but still a good easy to follow tutorial. My french polishing technique is basically Milburn brothers.
2. I havent had much luck french polishing with hard shellac but I was using the old formula and crazing was a huge issue. Im currently using blonde shellac flakes but might give hard shellac another try at some time in the future.
3. French polishing not as easy as it looks and learning the art can at times be frustrating but if youre stubborn and like a challenge then the effort is well worthwhile.
4. For my munecas I use well worn and washed T shirt material....the finer the weave the better. Linen is great but Ive found suitable material hard to get and expensive here in Oz.
Cheers Martin
Some comments:
1. One of the best starting points for french polishing guitars is the Milburn brothers tutorial http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html
A bit dated in one or two places (eg pore filling) but still a good easy to follow tutorial. My french polishing technique is basically Milburn brothers.
2. I havent had much luck french polishing with hard shellac but I was using the old formula and crazing was a huge issue. Im currently using blonde shellac flakes but might give hard shellac another try at some time in the future.
3. French polishing not as easy as it looks and learning the art can at times be frustrating but if youre stubborn and like a challenge then the effort is well worthwhile.
4. For my munecas I use well worn and washed T shirt material....the finer the weave the better. Linen is great but Ive found suitable material hard to get and expensive here in Oz.
Cheers Martin
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ozziebluesman
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