Any recommendations on a local timber for classical necks?

[Nick Payne]

I had a quick look through my copy of Kloot and Bolza (CSIRO, "Properties of timbers Imported into Australia", which has a short section at the end on Australian timbers) but their listing of Australian timbers is a bit limited and the Australian hardwoods for which they list data seem to me to be rather dense for a neck, probably unbalancing the guitar if used.

[kiwigeo]

Hi Nick,

Check out Kim's (Showtell) latest classical build. He used mahogany for the neck and he didnt find it detrimental to the balance of the instrument. In theory a denser neck should add to the sustain of the instrument.

I have plans to knock up a classical using up some of the tassie Blackwood neck stock in my shop.

Cheers Martin

[Bob Connor]

Hi Nick

Tasmanian Leatherwood would be fine if you can get hold of it.

I'm planning on trying some Sassafras for a steel string neck in the not so distant future and it's about the same weight and density as Honduran Mahogany.

I've nearly completed two guitars with Sassafras backs and sides and so far I'm impressed with it - both tonally and for it's stability.

[Kim]

Hey Nick,

I would not hesitate to give QLD Maple a go, it is light weight, strong, stable, proven and readily available. Maton have been using QLD Maple for years on their steel strings to great affect and I caved one over a year ago, still not on a guitar yet but, it has not moved a mm in that time.

Cheers

Kim

[Kim Strode]

Hi Nick,

I built my first acoustic guitar out of all Australian Timbers, with the neck made of Queensland Maple - my son rarely puts the guitar down. Although Queensland Maple lacks any figure, it worked well.

I built my Classical Guitar (Guitar #2) using Tasmanian Blackwood for the neck, which works well but is heavier. (If you are going to use Blackwood then you probably need to select the lightest boards you can find.)

On the third guitar (Classical), I used Honduras Mahogany, which has contributed to a fabulous sounding instrument. I'm not sure, however, how much this choice of neck wood has contributed to the final sound. For my next Classical Guitar I am going to use all Australian Timbers, as I want to compare the final results.

I asked the same question you have asked, of Tim Spittle (Australian Tonewoods) around a year ago, - he kindly responded with the information below:-

If Honduran mahogany was the standard from a weight perspective at 500
kg/cubic metre then all the of the following would be worthy

Qld Maple 560
Tas Blackwood 640 a worthy wood depending on density
Silky Oak 610
Silver Wattle 800
Yellow Wood 680
White Beech 500
Camphorwood 560
Aust Red Cedar 420***** excellent
White Cedar 450
Kauri 480

In researching this list further, I found many of these woods extremely rare and hard to get.

Best wishes.

[Allen]

G'day Nick;

I've use Australian Cedar for a neck on a 000. It's really light and oh so easy to carve. I did put 2 carbon fiber rods and a double action truss rod. If I can ever get my hands on some more suitably sized for necks I'm going to be adding it to the stash. I highly recommend it.

[Nick Payne]

Thanks to all who answered. I'll hie down to my local timber merchant (Monaro Timber) and see what they have.

[Bob Connor]

If you get down Sydney way, Trend Timbers might be worth a sniff.

[Dominic]

Nick, I have got some nice sticks of Qld maple, Qld Walnut for stringers, Tas BW, Narra, and hard maple all from Monaro and used all but the tas BW on necks so far.

I really like the Qld maple and the sticks I got have a nice quilted figure. I have used it on 5 guitars so far and it is easy to carve and light and seems very stable and is just nice.

If you poke around a bit you will find something there, not much needed for a neck.

Might see you there.
Dom

[James Mc]

Hi Nick
Some of the guys on this forum are laminating necks with a wide centre strip (Hesh and Bob spring to mind). This was common in the past where they would use a strip of ebony laminated into the neck to add strength. I think that laminating necks this way provides a far better finish than stacked heels with spliced heads (especially with figured timbers).

Building necks this way also opens up the list of neck timbers by allowing you to utilise some of the heavier local timbers and offset the weight by combining them with lighter ones. For example Aust red cedar with myrtle or white beech with jarrah.

I had a dig back into past posts and found this photo from Hesh… really is a fantastic look.