I don't often get asked to do 6 string ukes, but I love the sound of them. Strung gG, C, E, aa they have just that right amount of spark to the sound while still sounding like a uke.
This one in curly Blackwood with a Western Red Cedar sound board. Gidgee fret board and matching head plate veneers. Blackwood bindings and bridge with an ebony veneer. Satin gloss lacquer finish.
6 String Blackwood Tenor Uke
6 String Blackwood Tenor Uke
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lamanoditrento
- Blackwood
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2016 9:50 am
Re: 6 String Blackwood Tenor Uke
Thanks. I've tried so many ways of binding the sound port and up untill recently they have been a complete pain in the arse to do. Finally found a method that's relatively painless and gives the results I'm looking for.
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lamanoditrento
- Blackwood
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2016 9:50 am
Re: 6 String Blackwood Tenor Uke
I have thought for a while now that sound ports look naked without something. Yours are tied in perfectly. Any tip on process or things ways/things you have discarded?Allen wrote:Thanks. I've tried so many ways of binding the sound port and up untill recently they have been a complete pain in the arse to do. Finally found a method that's relatively painless and gives the results I'm looking for.
Trent
Re: 6 String Blackwood Tenor Uke
Everyone that I know of tries to bend material around as if it's binding. Usually in multiple layers as it's pretty much impossible any other way. Only really works with very dark timber and even then the process is incredibly difficult and time consuming. And adding the purfling to it again is an excersise in frustration. Also they reinforce the area inside with 2 layers of thin veneer usually going in two directions building a 3 layer ply like area. Again time consuming and difficult to do.
Mine is 2 donut shapes cut from my binding material on my laser but you could do it by hand.
One that is the show piece the purfling is glued to and the other the same inner but outer is larger to act as the backing reinforcement. Bend on hot pipe to fit where it's going. Trace around and cut / fit as if it's inlay. Glue in place and add backing on inside.
Essentially it's much like adding a rosette with reinforcement.
Mine is 2 donut shapes cut from my binding material on my laser but you could do it by hand.
One that is the show piece the purfling is glued to and the other the same inner but outer is larger to act as the backing reinforcement. Bend on hot pipe to fit where it's going. Trace around and cut / fit as if it's inlay. Glue in place and add backing on inside.
Essentially it's much like adding a rosette with reinforcement.
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