Table saw advice

[Jeremy D]

Hi Guys,

Wondering if it is possible to draw on the forums expansive collective knowledge and experience yet again? .

I have been offered a table saw. It was my grandfathers and I think it is probably from around the mid 80's. I have searched around and cannot find any info on it. It is a McMillan MS-300. 12" 1 1/2 HP. It is stamped with made in Taiwan.

My father seems to think that my grandfather researched it a lot before he got it.. He had special circumstances, he was completely blind most of his life from a firearms accident. The funny part is that he was quite a good woodworker for a blind guy and used to pull all the guards off all his machinery. We even caught him on the roof adjusting his tv antenna one time!

I don't have the ability to look at it personally but it is at a family members house in Victoria and they have sent a few photo's through. I can get it shipped here cheaply via a friends shipping company for under a couple of hundred bucks. I have never owned a table saw but I would really like one. I was about to pull the trigger on a second hand jet but then was offered this.

I know its hard from just photos but I would really appreciate any opinions. Is it worth the trouble or should I just leave it there? My use case is really just cutting sheets for jigs, maybe fret slotting and other luthery related tasks.

Thanks heaps!

[demonx]

I have no experience with that particular saw, but I have used several table saws, so can offer advice in that reguard.

If you want to set it up purely for fret slotting and other small jobs, then go for it.

If you're looking for cutting large sheets etc, it would be a pain in the butt, smaller partial sheets it'll probably be fine with.

I have a medium sized (3m wide and takes up 5m long floor space) sliding scribe/panel saw and I even find that limiting with large full sized sheets, so you'd be fighting on this small size rigid table saw.

With all that said though, for the price you mentioned, if you don't have one, grab it.

[Jeremy D]

Thanks for the reply Allen,

Yeah I kind of figured that (size wise). It's not any smaller than what I was considering buying anyway. I was more concerned about the accuracy of the blade and the fence. Little hard to tell how solid it is. It's not really the money that I am concerned about, more that I don't what to put people out if it's not worth it. On a side note I haven't seen many with the motor outboard of the table like that.

Cheers.

[seeaxe]

Hi
I have pretty much that exact saw, picked it up for 250 on trademe (kiwi ebay). Same top extensions, same external motor, same (not very good) fence, same labels, mine is called something else but it's the same saw.

I wasn't sure I would use it much but for the price seemed too good to mss. However, it's by far the most frequently used power tool in my shed.

Sheets get cut with the skilly and guide and then trimmed on this if extra accuracy is required. It cuts truss rod slots, all the square cuts for the necks, bracing, halving joints, whatever. It is super good for cutting square ends and mitres if you make yourself a simple slide out of scrap ply.

It's top used to look like that one when I got it, but it is now very, very shiny as it gets used a lot. Trust me you will not regret it, grab it. Clean up the table with some wire wool, buy a new blade and enjoy. Dust collection is a bit of a challenge, haven't sorted that yet.

The fence is not great so takes some care to set up. First I have fixed a larger piece of pine to the fence to get a straight surface. The round bars that the fence clamps onto are a bit loose on mine too, they might need a visit from an impact wrench. When I set up the fence I measure the fence offset at the blade, then measure the distance to the left edge of the table, to the nearest half a mil.
Then Using the left table edge as a reference, I set the far end to that measurement and tighten the top clamp screw at the near end of the fence, then I set the near end of the fence to the same dimension and tighten the big screw at the near end. Double check all measurements and you are good to go. I looked at an upgrade fence system but was going to cost more than I paid for the saw and is very bulky. Depends I guess on what you want to do with it, but my method works for general woodwork.

Good luck!

[Graham Long]

indexing tooth on the sled

The fret board is held under the cradle

I to have one the same as that, purchased by my father at about the same time. not a high quality saw. But ideal for fret slot set up. I leave it setup, and as mentioned the fence isn't that good eithe. Some pictures attached
Cheers
Graham

[kiwigeo]

For a couple of hundred bucks I'd grab it. Things to check are the trueness of the blade. The fence looks basic....not sure if you could fit an after market fence on this saw. Check the belt and also check trueness of the top. Wet and dry paper should take out the worst of the rust. I'd get an after market blade guard.....with anti kick pawls.

I can get some fairly large MDF sheets through my 10" Jet Table saw.....not hard to do especially if you have an accessory table or someone to help.

[lauburu]

Exactly the same experience as Richard (seeaxe)
Also the V belt to the motor caused the motor to bounce a bit and transferred the vibrations to the sawbench. Swapped it out for a linked belt and the problem disappeared.
Miguel

[Jeremy D]

Wow thanks so much for the responses.

I think I will see if I can get it up here than. Sounds like the one weak spot is the fence, hopefully the locking mechanisms work OK and I can beef it up a bit.

What blades are you guys using? Maybe something like this http://www.bunnings.com.au/diablo-305mm ... e_p6370359 would be OK?

Thanks again.

[routout]

Yes grab it just recently looking at a bigger one OH well i will keep the little one I have I have been told in the past that you can make a not so good machine work well it is true I have some of those and have produced good quality stuff you just have to work around the bad bits.

[kiwigeo]

What blades are you guys using? Maybe something like this http://www.bunnings.com.au/diablo-305mm ... e_p6370359 would be OK?

Thanks again.

Check saw arbour diameter when buying blades. Not sure about that Bunnings blade....I generally only buy sausages at Bunnings.

I'm running a CMT blade in my table saw.....it's a high end blade and you can get cheaper/ better bang for buck blades.

[seeaxe]

I'm using a bog standard Irwin 250 mm blade with carbide teeth. About 50 nz pesos if I recall correctly...(.it's a ten inch saw by the way.). This does all my general cutting, ripping and midfield sheet cuts. Lasts for years.

good to have few different ones and they are easy to change.

Just take your time with the fence and you will be fine. it's strong enough, just a bit basic.
Cheers
Richard

[seeaxe]

Midfield equals MDF. Gotta keep your eyes the auto correct these days.