Hello to all,
I am a luthier hobbyist and this is my first post .. so ask forgiveness immediately for any error in my post.
I am currently repairing an old Gibson J50 1968.
this is what I discovered by removing the top:
- The top is bent toward the soundhole and has several cracks
- The bridge has been replaced several times;
- The original bridge plate was removed and replaced with large pieces of spruce (total plate thickness: 12 mm);
- The X bracings were ruined and broken; They were added over time various pieces of Brazilian rosewood to reinforce the structure.
So, I think to do so:
- Remaking completely top (I have available the beautiful Sitka spruce boards cut in the 70s) + new Top bracing (original vintage scheme and bracings dimensions)
- Strengthen the structure by removing the original kerfing and putting reverse kerfing;
- Graphite flying buttress (thanks to you, Master Rick Turner).
Is it worth it to redo the top and add all these reinforcements?
Or clean up the original top (removing the warping with steam)?
What do you think?
thank you..
repairing an old Gibson J50 -1968
Re: repairing an old Gibson J50 -1968
That guitar has had a hard life......the underside of the top looks like a donkey's breakfast
The bridge plate area is a war zone....12mm thick spruce has been stuck in this area? With that heavy looking bridge that top must be as stiff as a dead dingo's dinger
Im wondering whats going on with all the extra holes in the bridge plate(s)? Looks someone had a spasm while they were drilling the bridge pin holes and ended up drilling a few extra holes.
If it was me I'd probably be making a new top......the rosette doesn't look like it's worth saving.
If you're thinking of putting in flying buttress bracing then you're going to have to make modifications to head block and sides. Is it worth the effort?

The bridge plate area is a war zone....12mm thick spruce has been stuck in this area? With that heavy looking bridge that top must be as stiff as a dead dingo's dinger

Im wondering whats going on with all the extra holes in the bridge plate(s)? Looks someone had a spasm while they were drilling the bridge pin holes and ended up drilling a few extra holes.
If it was me I'd probably be making a new top......the rosette doesn't look like it's worth saving.
If you're thinking of putting in flying buttress bracing then you're going to have to make modifications to head block and sides. Is it worth the effort?
Martin
Re: repairing an old Gibson J50 -1968
well, 68 ain't really vintage nor a real good year (which must not mean anything)
so retopping is not out of the question
but what does the rest of it look like?
most Gibsons of that age (and earlier) are beaters, so putting on a new top might look completely wrong...
you can always send this one through the sander inside only, rebrace and use it, whilst keeping the outside look like original
depends on the bridge area...
so I'd take that off, and see what you've got
and just cause you mention it, I don't think its a good idea to try and make anyhing other than a vintage (style) gibson from this
so no new fancy techniques, you'd have to change more than just the top for those to work the way they're supposed to
so you'd always get only a halfarsed compromise...
and on top might have trouble selling it at some point...
a vintage correct retop won't do very much harm, as long as its done to vintage specs...
although there are ways of giving a new top that oxidized look (by oxidizing it, preferably
)
well, that's my humble opinion at least
best
josh
so retopping is not out of the question
but what does the rest of it look like?
most Gibsons of that age (and earlier) are beaters, so putting on a new top might look completely wrong...
you can always send this one through the sander inside only, rebrace and use it, whilst keeping the outside look like original
depends on the bridge area...
so I'd take that off, and see what you've got
and just cause you mention it, I don't think its a good idea to try and make anyhing other than a vintage (style) gibson from this
so no new fancy techniques, you'd have to change more than just the top for those to work the way they're supposed to
so you'd always get only a halfarsed compromise...
and on top might have trouble selling it at some point...
a vintage correct retop won't do very much harm, as long as its done to vintage specs...
although there are ways of giving a new top that oxidized look (by oxidizing it, preferably

well, that's my humble opinion at least
best
josh
Re: repairing an old Gibson J50 -1968
I wouldn't replace that top. Bit of work to get it functional, but worth it
Steve
Steve
Re: repairing an old Gibson J50 -1968
thanks guys for the advice,
the guitar was in good condition except the top.
the nitrocellulose is cracked but is easily solved by wetting the paint with a bit of nitrocellulose diluted (I tried it on my '62 Gibson ES 125 and returned new).
The neck is ok!
My idea of the flying buttress was only to strengthen the guitar and reduce the stress of the top.
I've already installed on other guitars, and it is not so difficult, and really create a solid structure that does not deform absolutely.
I do not know, however, whether and how to change the original sound of the guitar.
I know that in terms of vintage is not correct ... but ... I'm curious about the result !!
I was also considering to keep the top and remove only bracings but there are many cracks here and there on the top ... and under the bridge are missing pieces of top spuce. So it's worth it to keep it and restore it? I think not ..
Oh, also:
- The neck I can not remove it either with steam !!!!!!
It had already happened with a '72 gretsch RocJet with the neck stuck with gallons of cyanoacrylate.
- You tell me the top radius? I do not find on the internet ..
Thanks again,
I await your opinion ...
the guitar was in good condition except the top.
the nitrocellulose is cracked but is easily solved by wetting the paint with a bit of nitrocellulose diluted (I tried it on my '62 Gibson ES 125 and returned new).
The neck is ok!
My idea of the flying buttress was only to strengthen the guitar and reduce the stress of the top.
I've already installed on other guitars, and it is not so difficult, and really create a solid structure that does not deform absolutely.
I do not know, however, whether and how to change the original sound of the guitar.
I know that in terms of vintage is not correct ... but ... I'm curious about the result !!
I was also considering to keep the top and remove only bracings but there are many cracks here and there on the top ... and under the bridge are missing pieces of top spuce. So it's worth it to keep it and restore it? I think not ..
Oh, also:
- The neck I can not remove it either with steam !!!!!!
It had already happened with a '72 gretsch RocJet with the neck stuck with gallons of cyanoacrylate.
- You tell me the top radius? I do not find on the internet ..
Thanks again,
I await your opinion ...
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