Binding cutter moved

[soulman]

Had everything set, was watching base of trimmer to be sitting flat on top. didn't expect cutter to work down.
Still enough side material glued to kerfed lining. Going to have to get the creative juices flowing to fix this one. Maybe some fancy binding. Any ideas.

[charangohabsburg]

Spectacular!
Lately, binding channel routing mistakes seem to be en vogue.

The first idea that comes to my mind for converting the mistake into a feature is the rosette design Allen is using now on his ukuleles. This would not only allow to integrate the step from the wide part to the normal width (actually height) of the channel, but also would break up the otherwise bold binding section in the upper bout into several strips and thin lines.

[kiwigeo]

Frick!!

[Joel Barbeau]

You're lucky the cutter didn't completely fall off, you could have really hurt yourself there If you have offcut material from those sides (what wood is that, by the way?) you could bend a piece of it to the shape of the upper bout, clean up the 'step' where the slip-up happened and glue it on there.

I would suggest a scarf joint where that extra binding will join the rest of the side. leaving it a bit proud of the original binding cavitiy.
Then re-do the binding cut, making sure the cutter is not going anywhere.

Fixing it this way, you won't have to make any change in the original design, and if it's well done it should not be visible to those that don't know about the fix.

Hope I'm being clear and that this helps!
As a teacher once told me : 'If it's wood, you can fix it.'

[kiwigeo]

Not sure of the cutter was loose or it was a case of the depth stop being loose.

On the Makita trimmers the depth of cut is locked with a lever that clamps the lower base to the trimmer body...Ive had the locknut on the lever work loose a couple of times on two different machines. It's and arrangement I dont like and IMO not as secure as a proper depth stop as on a router.

[simso]

Wow that came down a long way, really got to make the collet tight on the bit.

That being said there are collets and then there are collets,

I would personally, even the rote out, then run a decorative wood binding followed by a plastic binding or whatever you were going to do before hand, bit like a purfling setup.

[Mark McLean]

That must have been a nasty moment!
I had a more minor version of this same mistake happen once, due to the bit working loose in the collet. I did what Joel is suggesting and grafted in a piece of off cut from the sides. If you try this just make sure that you get it around the same way as the side, not mirror imaged or book matched because then any runout in the grain might make it lighter or darker than the adjacent wood (like you see in some book matched tops or backs sometimes). In my one it is in the same place as yours on the upper bout, which is a hIghly visible spot to the player. My repair is noticeable to me because I know about it, but no other player of that guitar has ever picked it as a defect.
I bet you will check the router/trimmer twice every time from now on.

[Jim watts]

Unfortunately I've had to deal with one of these too. I repaired as Joel describes above, A little care and careful picking of the wood it'll come out flawless.
Good luck with that.

[soulman]

Thanks for the replies.
Timber is Qld Maple.
This was borrowed gear. As a fitter and turner I have had plenty of experience with collets. on closer inspection I noticed vice jaw marks on shaft which may have been why it came loose at the tension I thought was tight enough. So now I have tightened it extra tight. No problems with the rest of the binding channel.
Will need to go through stash and see what I can find.

[ozwood]

Fark That's why my Sphincter still clenches every time I go near a guitar with a router.

My condolences.

[tippie53]

OK now you have a design enhancement opportunity.
What I did to hide one of these , was A take the trim router and used it for target practice and got a good one. In your case I don't know what you had. I used a Harbor Freight ( cheap chinese junk) I now use the ridgid line.

B
recut to the depth of the boo boo but not as deep . then I used some figured sycamore and pearl , ebony and bloodwood. I wish I had kept that guitar but I didn't.

Looked nice when it was done so you can save the guitar , and if you learned from this you will be ok. Be sure you only make the new cut about .030 deep

[soulman]

Fark That's why my Sphincter still clenches every time I go near a guitar with a router.

My condolences.

Thanks Paul. Yes it was one of those moments.

OK now you have a design enhancement opportunity.
What I did to hide one of these , was A take the trim router and used it for target practice and got a good one. In your case I don't know what you had. I used a Harbor Freight ( cheap chinese junk) I now use the ridgid line.

B
recut to the depth of the boo boo but not as deep . then I used some figured sycamore and pearl , ebony and bloodwood. I wish I had kept that guitar but I didn't.

Looked nice when it was done so you can save the guitar , and if you learned from this you will be ok. Be sure you only make the new cut about .030 deep

Thanks Tippie.
You are right there. Good chance for a fix up without making look like a screwup.
I have found a wide strip of figured Blackwood. Found some perfling strip. I have now cut the other side to match. will post photo once sanded up.

[soulman]

This is my fix up.

[needsmorecowbel]

Nice!

Good, clean save there

Stu

[charangohabsburg]

Well done!
Now it looks a bit like a racing car.

[kiwigeo]

Thinking outside the square Soulman....

To be honest when I first looked at the pic I didn't like it but after another few looks I find myself struggling to find a reason not to like it..