Coloured Purflering and Binding

[Trevor]

Hi All
I have been a silent member for 2 years and have decided to "come out of the Woodpile". I build and play Ukuleles and am slowly building my skills. I would like to access some coloured plastics suitable for enhancing bindings and inlay. Could anyone point me in the right direction on suitable material and glues and availability in Melbourne area.
I have built kits in the past and am just on my second build from scratch in blackwood from a tree burnt down in the Marysville fires 4 years ago.
Could not work out how to make photos small enough to add. I will work on this
Trevor

[Allen]

Not sure what it is you are wanting to do with plastics Trevor. Is it purling lines, or the bindings themselves? If you are wanting plastic bindings then there are some sources in China that are probably the cheapest going. A simple ebay search will bring them up. Or then there is StewMac in the USA. For local, I think you'd be out of luck.

I'm not a fan of plastic bindings. I've used Tortoise shell pattern of a few instruments, but I'm not all that fussed about it. My preference would be for wood, and wood purflings. The only Australian source of coloured veneers that you could make purflings out of is from Hancock Guitars(Australian Luthier Supplies).

[rocket]

Peter Scott -Young in Heathmont worlds biggest stash of veneers and purflings, don't know about bindings though.
Rod.

[Trevor]

Thanks guys
No, I would not use anything other than wood for bindings but was thinking more of thin coloured purfling (reds and blues) to enhance the edges and other fine inlay work. I make my own bindings and have been thinking perhaps I can wood dye these but was concerned with bleeding in the glueing and finishing process. Maybe I spend some time on R&D on this.

[kiwinoz62]

Hi Trevor,
As Allen said for ALS, got some of their b/w/b purfling, gr8 stuff 'or' check out ebay usa (luthierwood-shop) got some of their black/red purfling & w/b/w purfling. both made from wood.

[Nick]

Welcome to the forum Trevor!
LMI do multi coloured purf strips if you are after something a little different. Not sure of any other suppliers of this product but guess there would be others around.

[Trevor]

I have seen the ALS and Stewmac gear. LMI looks the closest thing I am looking for. I tried some wood dye today but it is only water based and did not penetrate enough. May need some spirit based stuff and heat it up.
It is sooooo good to have such high profile guys giving me feed back. I should have come out of the woodpile long ago
Trev

[rocket]

Also Trev,,https://www.google.com.au/#q=Gurian+instruments will make just about anything you want but have a minimum charge.
i purchased from them a few years back and still have a ship load in the stash, redwrw ,bluewbw, greenwgw, blackwbw, if you're in Melb. i can put some your way if it suits!!
Cheers,,

Rod.
P.S. Nick, hear that? high profile!!

[Allen]

I've got a stack of various dyed maple veneers from ALS.

I found that I really only use the black and natural maple, and do need to replenish my supply. I have used the coloured pieces now and then, but for my work, they really aren't that suitable. I've not noticed any running of the colors when I have used them. There is far more danger of colors bleeding into surrounding lighter coloured timbers from the likes of Indian Rosewood or Cocobolo bindings.

[Nick]

P.S. Nick, hear that? high profile!!

I'm sure Trevor was referring to you and Allen Rod

[tippie53]

actually from a protection stand point plastic is more protective but wood does give options that are not available . Also wood will tend to have more open gaps that need to be addressed. You can use a dye and make your own. You should be able to find dyes over there. easy process.

[Tom West]

Also wood will tend to have more open gaps that need to be addressed.

John: Have to disagree with you on this point. Have never used plastic so am speaking from the aspect of wood only. Given that, the only time I have had problems with wood purfling binding in reference to gaps was because of my workmanship and not the wood it's self. I rope all the time and if sizes are OK and channels cut and cleaned up properly, the vast majority of time every thing is super tight. This has been my experience.
Tom