Radius sanding blocks

[Jeremy D]

Hi Guys,

I am not sure if this has been discussed but I made some of these today using the method http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic ... ntry284848. It uses a safe-t-planer and a tilted drill press bench to do the job. It was really easy and they came out great. I have made them before using different methods and this one can't be beat.

Cheers

[Trevor Gore]

Hmmm. Not sure how safe that is, doing it that way. It seems to me that the fence is on the wrong side of the work piece, so the rotation of the cutter pulls the work off the fence rather than pushes it into the fence.

The problem, I think, stems from the Safe-T-Planer instruction book. Two types of safety planer are available, one for a drill press, the other for a radial arm saw. The different cutters are set up such that one is a left hand rotation cutter and the other is a right hand rotation cutter. The pictures in the handbook vary between use on a drill press and use on a radial arm saw, so there are different directions of rotation and the requirement to put the fence on the correct side in each case, which is different for the two types of cutter.

In the book I talk about a method of making "radius"* sanding blocks sized for sanding the back reinforcement strip to a nice curve. When I made my sanding blocks, I made them in much the same way, more tilt, so tighter radius, but with the fence on the other side of the work. It's quite a safe method if you do it right, but could cause a few surprises if you try it like it's shown in the link.

*The radius is actually a section of ellipse, but the difference is often very small.

[charangohabsburg]

Hmmm. Not sure how safe that is, doing it that way. It seems to me that the fence is on the wrong side of the work piece, so the rotation of the cutter pulls the work off the fence rather than pushes it into the fence.

Same thought here when I saw the pictures. But to be fair, he only claims that you keep the fretting hand intact, he does not talk of the picking hand:

Now, if you've got one of these babies, I thoroughly endorse rereading the safety instructions you got with the planer. Use it as a bible and you may keep your fretting hand intact.

P.S.
...and he isn't shy when it goes to take it all in a single pass!

[P Bill]

This is a common way to make a cove moulding. The fence angle determines the radius, many shallow passes. I haven't made sanding blocks but have made many metres of moulding. Don't use short bits of timber. You can boggie up something to mimic the grabber.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOEdWrBQa_g

[Trevor Gore]

This is a common way to make a cove moulding....

Yes, I've used the table saw method, too. Plenty safe if you do it right, but I can't say it's one of my favourite operations, though!

P.S.
...and he isn't shy when it goes to take it all in a single pass!

Well, I can only assume he didn't do that in one pass with the fence on the wrong side, or he wouldn't have anything left to type with.

[sebastiaan56]

I put a rail either side of the piece and worked in 2-3mm increments. I thought the Safe-T-Planer was quite adequate to the task and quite safe.

[Trevor Gore]

I thought the Safe-T-Planer was quite adequate to the task and quite safe.

Agreed. The Safe-T-Planer is a great tool. I've used one on every guitar I've ever built. Used right, it is very safe. Unfortunately, I can't recommend the "handbook" it comes with, which mixes photos of the right/left hand rotation tools in a confusing way, which can lead to unsafe practices. If you're familiar with rotating tools and don't dwell on the handbook, you'll naturally do the right, common sense, thing. Unfortunately, not everyone has that degree of familiarity.

[Kev3]

Can you still get the Safe-T-Planer or similar ?

Cheers

[Kamusur]

Gents my apologies for any hint of a hijack (save starting another thread) but have an Safe t Planer myself and have only used it a few times on some practise scraps. Stuck to pretty low speeds on my mates Parken and the results were ok.
The press has the usual belt pulley system and variable speed adjustment, up to 1000 rpm at each setting. My tech info research up to now is reading a Pop Mech review from the 50's, most users know this b/w article.
Any experienced users have some ideas about optimum/safe speeds for this tool?

Steve

[ozziebluesman]

Hey Kev here you go:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-DRILL-PR ... 19d73f9f77
Cheers
Alan

[sebastiaan56]

I run mine pretty fast Kamsur, Id have to look up the speed on the drill but its pretty well top speed. Keep the teeth sharp and take small cuts and it works well.

[DarwinStrings]

Same as Sebastiaan from me Steve and know where your fingers are at all times

I was in Sydney recently Sebastiaan, had a plan to head up the mountains to show my kids the Three Sisters but after feeling the cold in Syd and the thought of having to buy a space suit from NASA I decided to wait till we are there in Summer.

Jim

[Kamusur]

Thanks for the tips Sebastian and Jim, might have to turn to the sliding compound vise with hands well clear.

Steve

[Woodsy23]

Availability of Safe-T-Planer

When I found out that Stewmac no longer supply the Safe-T-Planer I bought a clone from McJing in Yagoona in Sydney. I have only done a trial cut and it seemed to work OK although I have never seen an original one in use so I can't compare. The cutters on the McJing are slightly different. I think there are two cutting edges on each cutter (180 degrees from each other). I also noted that there are no cutter alignment marks on the body. I don't know if that presents a problem.

Woodsy

[Kim]

Yes the Wagner Finger Nipper is best run fast, 3k is good..Sharpen often and lightly and don't get too greedy per pass.

Because I have a few of the original Wagners to allow quick change over, I stocked up on cutters and stones when Stewmac was clearing out. IIRC the guy making them in the USA just shut the factory doors after a fist full of decades when he decided he had had enough and didn't even bother trying to sell the business. Pity cause the originals are a bloody good tool and are the beez kneez when it comes to taking down waxy and difficult to sand wood species such as bocote, native olive, african blackwood, and certain examples of cocobolo etc, to a more manageable thickness for the drum sander.

But it must be said that the better the drillpress, the better the Wagner will perform. I had a Taiwanese built 16 speed Transpower for a good while and it worked pretty well. But I now have an Aussie built Brobo Waldown 2M and cannot understand why it took me so long to upgrade to a decent machine.....Oh wait, yes I do....I had to rebuild all those 'bloody jigs' to fit the bastard of a thing. ..Good thing in a way though because the first lot I made for the Transpower showed their short comings over time and what should be done better for the Brobo..

Cheers

Kim