Cardboard for a pinstripe?

[slowlearner]

Right, so I've invested waaaayyy... too much time in working this out. Looked for fibre veneer, imported some stained poplar (turned out to be too small), found local vendors of similar stuff and the best thing I can find is this...

http://www.briggs.com.au/veneer_details.php?id=244

It's 0.6mm thick and $80 for 2500 x 640mm. I've looked at the spec sheet and it's recycled timber. What I'm wondering is, how is it really any different to cardboard. Now sure, the dye in cardboard is water based and this would be mineral based, but aside of that, I'm struggle to see the difference.

I did a test piece with some pine with purple cardboard laminated between it a few weeks back. I then tru-oiled it and left it. The cardboard hasn't swelled or anything, so I think it's safe. The only potention issue I see is the dye running a little during gluing, but after sanding, it all seems to be clean and neat. It's only going under the top decorative laminate, so it's not structural, although the glue seems to soak right through anyhow.

Appreciate your thoughts on whether I'm just being a dangerous tightwad or if this would actually work...

[EricDownunder]

Sounds interesting, I was thinking of doing a similar thing to get some bright colours in a rosette etc.
Do you have any pictures of what you have done?

[slowlearner]

here are some pics...

[auscab]

Pete,
An old trick when you want to get two perfect halves is to glue paper between the join so it creates a weak spot for perfect separation down the paper line after you have finished working it. I'm thinking cardboard will do the same thing . You say its not structural so you may be fine with it.

What happened with the Poplar wood ? and why not go for a timber Black dyed stringing ? I was going to say Ebony but its close to impossible to get around corners, for me anyway

[slowlearner]

The poplar wood was A. quite expensive and B. not very big. Even with 4 sheets it's barely enough to do one layer for a whole body.

I'm gonna try splitting the block in half to see what happens...

[slowlearner]

mmm, that split a little too easily. Guess it's not gonna work.

[slowlearner]

FAIL!

[auscab]

If you want a black line around the edge of some wood ,
You could make a scratch stock and file up an old blade , hack saw or piece of band saw to the thickness of the stringing 1mm or 1.2
and lay a black line in.

Here is a link to making a scratch stock if this idea suit you .

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAn ... x?id=31290

In the link he is making a blade for a small bead moulding .

If you file a blade that fits the stringing or purfling and scratch in the Chanel you get nice clean fit . It's one of the simplest tools that can have great affects for inlays and mouldings .

Ill never forget the time someone told me what it was , Big surprise after years of wondering how the old chair makers did those perfect tapered mouldings up the back of 18 century chairs.

[EricDownunder]

I was about to try some "jeloton" (spelling could be wrong} it's light coloured, fine straight grain works well and bends easily, I might try to dye some tonight and see.

[Kamusur]

You might try tinting up some resin?

Steve