Hand Cut Rasps

[Allen]

I just received a pair of rasps that I purchased from Stew Mac. I turned some handles for them today from some silky oak and then gave them a try. They cut very quick and clean and I don't think it's going to take much to carve out a neck.

Here's a picture with a neck to give you a sense of scale.


And a close up to show you the cut. Fine on the left, coarse on the right.

[ap404]

Nice ... They have a medieval kind of wicked point to them don't they?
I'm sure that'll come in handy for tight corners somewhere.

[joel]

The points are to use on people who interrupt your neck carving

[kiwigeo]

They look like Dragon hand cut rasps. Ive got a couple in my shop for roughing out necks.

[Allen]

That's what they are. I like them so much I might go for the other ones they have as well.

[Kim]

They look great Allen. I got a Shinto Saw Rasp that works real good to, anyone else tried one?

http://japanwoodworker.com/product.asp? ... t_id=12881

The 11" is the go, the one with the handle is overkill and it gets in the way.

Cheers

Kim

[joel]

I've got one of those saw rasps. Works well. Just have to watch that you don't take too much off (like any rasp really). I like that it's two rasps in one as well.

[Dominic]

Yep, I have used a few different rasps in the past and love these. They are so versatile. The pointy narrow end lets you get into small holes or curves and wide bit is good for levelling and the they cut very fast both wood and skin I have found. They also cut well at most angles, that is at 90 degrees to the job like a spoke shave. They are great this way for working on the heal.
The coarse one cuts real well for doing all the hard work then the finer one takes out all the marks.

Love em. But mine don't have as nice handles as Allen's
Dom

[kiwigeo]

Dont use these rasps for fine tuning tuning slots on a classical guitar....its very hard to get the sides of the slots exactly at right angles to top of headstock. Dont ask me how I know

[Allen]

Thats good to know Martin, I was thinking that these might be ideal for that. I'll have to rethink this then.

This little size 5 that I'm going to building next is going to have a slotted head stock. I really like the look of the top of the slot being square, rather than the round left by a router bit. Any suggestions on the best way to tackle this?

[James Mc]

[Allen]

Your forgot the most important step James.

[James Mc]

yep... I think it would be a three beer job.

[kiwigeo]

Thats good to know Martin, I was thinking that these might be ideal for that. I'll have to rethink this then.

This little size 5 that I'm going to building next is going to have a slotted head stock. I really like the look of the top of the slot being square, rather than the round left by a router bit. Any suggestions on the best way to tackle this?

Routing will give the cleanest straighest cut. I do it bhy hand, rough cutting with a coping saw and then finishing off with a very sharp paring chisel and then a wide sanding stick. I try and work with the headstock at eye height in my parrot vice so I can quickly see both sides of the headstock. The rounded upper end of my slots get rough worked witha rat tail file and then I finish off with sandpaper wrapped around an appropriate diameter piece of dowel. The square end of the slot gets done with paring chisels of an appropriate width and then finished off with sanding sticks.