How I prepare, spray and buff a guitar

[Kim]

Thanks so much for filling in the blanks Allen.

Quite frankly I believe I would have procrastinated through another couple of years before attempting to take on spraying a nitro finish had it not been for your efforts to share your expertise and remove so much of the mystery for so many.

Thank you mate, as I said earlier, pure gold

Cheers

Kim

[nnickusa]

Hey Allen,

I noticed in your later tute using the handheld buffer, that you look to be using a wool pad in that one. Have you changed your preference for the pad? I have bought a kit which has the buffer, and a bunch of different pads, some foam, and some wool, not to mention a myriad of other odd bits, and wonder what I might be advised to try when polishing my new one.....second spray tomorrow, the gods willing, but sanded back to 320 today and all evenly dull. I'll hit it with 400 tomorrow before spraying again, but am looking to sort-of plan the rest now. Also, what are you using for polish? Is it the mother's?

As I may not find exactly what you're using is there a spec for a recommendation? ie: fine, very fine, ultra fine, etc?

Thanks

[Allen]

That's a fairly firm white foam pad made by Farecla. I don't use wool at all. Have never found the need to go with the soft grey pad that is used to apply glaze. I think that if the finish I get off the set up I use was any shinier you wouldn't be able to hold onto the instrument.

I'm using the Autoglym 3B cut polish in that video (medium cut), but when it runs out I'll be getting a bottle of Mothers cut polish (fine) to replace it. We use it predominately in the panel shop and the cut and finish is better than the Autoglym. I'm just too tight to through out the rest of this bottle.

[nnickusa]

Having seen yours, I tend to agree....

I note that you neglected to mention one critical factor to be aware of when spraying.....

Don't step on the hose! I was paying so much attention to what was coming out a really nice finish, that I stepped on the bastard, and ended up with a big set of runs on the top, since the gun stopped moving, and, instead of taking the pressure off the trigger, I had a look at the problem.....

Oh well, I only shot three coats, intending to rub back one more time next week anyway, but the finish is really coming up, mostly thanks to the advice I've found from you and other on-line resources

[ckngumbo]

Thank You!

[Allen]

Getting runs are just part of spraying. It's a fine line between getting a run and a nice self levelling clear coat. Though I wouldn't step on too many air hoses in future.

I don't know if I've mentioned before, but it might be worth repeating here.

A very easy way to level a run is by scraping it carefully. At work we will use a piece of tungsten carbide that is made specially for this. But in the shed you can use a razor blade or a special made small card scraper. I use a piece of tool steel shaped up like a small plane blade.

Hold the blade at very close to 90 degrees to the job and gently scrape the run. You'll see the high getting shaved down to the rest of the surface. When it's flush, or nearly so then you can switch to a sanding block and paper.

If you try to just use a block and paper method it's very easy to cut through on either side of the run before you get it level. Can really spoil your day.

[nnickusa]

Thanks for that tip, too, Allen. I'll try it.....have a good class....