Something to fret over

[rocket]

I was just wondering what others do when radiusing fret wire, i normally radius it to fit the fretboard exactly, but was thinking is there any advantage in going a tad smaller radius with the wire in an effort to get those ends sitting down nice and tight to the board???
Cheers,,,
Rod.

[jeffhigh]

With normal fretwire, i go a little smaller on the radius, with the gold evo I basically want it matched.

[Tod Gilding]

Hi Rod,as you would know ,Im not the most experienced,I have only fretted about 6 boards, but for what it's worth I buy my fretwire radiused to 12" and most of my boards have been 16" and I just hammer away ,the only time that I had any problems with the ends was when I used a blackwood fingerboard as opposed to rosewood, so I have been thinking that maybe the hardness of the board helps to hold down the ends, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime here and let both of us know the answer.

Cheers Tod

[Nick]

I've always 'overbent' my radius Rod, to me it helps when installing the frets (can seat both ends in the slot first which holds the fret in place until I press it fully home) and also to my way of thinking (as you surmised), this helps the ends seat fully against the Finger board. I quite often bind the finger board so the ends haven't got anything to hold them down, where the tangs are notched, except the tension of the over bent fret. I don't over bend much, usually only 1.5-2mm at the centreline (I don't use rollers to roll a radius, just my eye & a wooden jawed vice), I've found this seats the fret nice & snug against the board without any high spots at the ends.
The LMI EVO gold fretwire I've taken to using on my last few builds comes coiled at just the right 'over' radius for me to use on my usual 12" radiused board, I usually dont have to 'tweak' this at all which is a bonus!

[rocket]

What's the evo gold like Nick? Characteristics??
Cheers,,,
Rod.

[simso]

I always overbend mine.

My theory is, I drive the fret home and the ends bite down and in, so less risk of having end lift out.

[Dominic]

Another advantage with over bending and putting the ends in first as Nick says is that the end tangs push out a tad when the middle is pressed down, effectively creating an undercut so they is no track straight up for the tang to follow.
Cheers
Dom

[joolstacho]

Here's the go...
If you look at the tang of the fretwire you'll see small (usually) triangular shapes standing proud. These are like barbs. The reason it's best to bend the fretwire to a tighter radius than your fretboard is that if you tap the fret ends in the slot first, then tap them in working from the outsides towards the centres, as you progress towards the centre, the barbs at the ends move slightly outwards as the fretwire flattens onto the board radius giving the 'board a better grip on the barbs. It's a big factor in holding the frets in the slots securely.

[vandenboom]

As well as overbending like most others and using one of those radiused brass cauls to press it in , I do something else that I read in one of the luthiers guild books. I don't have a pic of this handy so will do my best to describe it.
I made a caul with the same profile as the fretboard and epoxied some 3/16" steel rod along each long edge. I then cut that it into sections roughly 4 or 5 frets long creating a set of 5 or 6 mini cauls. I then run a file over each piece of rod to ensure it is absolutely level.
After pressing in all the frets, I wick some superglue under the fret ends on a set of 4 or 5 frets and clamp the corresponding caul over those frets. I also leave these cauls on when filing back the fret ends to prevent movement.
It's a bit more messing around but I find it really locks the fret wire ends in, especially on bound finger boards.
Frank

[Allen]

The Gold EVO is harder, and I'd describe it as more brittle. At least thats how it feels when you cut it or nip the tang. I don't find it all that much more difficult to work with. Gives a nice look when it's all buffed up, but up here in the tropics it does seem to tarnish up fairly quickly so that lovely gold look soon turns a bit grungy.

Oh, and to add to the consensus, I over bend my fret wire as well.

[Nick]

What's the evo gold like Nick? Characteristics??
Cheers,,,
Rod.

It's nice stuff Rod (Well I like it anyway), it's harder than the standard Silver Nickel wire but not quite as hard as Stainless. I've heard of some people that claim they've had trouble leveling or working the frets after installing because it's hard, but I've never had a problem so I'm not sure what they're doing differently (Maybe blunter files e.t.c?). It takes a polish really well & against an ebony or other dark wooded board, looks the dogs bollocks in my opinion. Another not-so-major point I've found with them is that I have quite 'sweaty' hands when I play, and most of my Silver Nickel fretted guitars dull & even go a slightly greeny-blue so I have to re-polish after a while, I've never had to do that with the EVO, it seems to hold it's bright finish & not be quite so susceptable to finger oils/acids (just read Allens reply which doesn't have the same reply in this respect )

[kiwigeo]

.... most of my Silver Nickel fretted guitars dull & even go a slightly greeny-blue

Your favourite colour

[rocket]

Thanks for the heads up on the Evo Gold Nick, sounds like good stuff, i'll have to get me some.
Cheers,,,
Rod.