Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

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Tonxi
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Location: 55km SE Glen Innes NSW

Re: Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

Post by Tonxi » Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:49 pm

After many trials and tribulations I seem to have it sorted out now.
First I installed an on/off switch fom a dead GMC saw. Then I got the old motor running and mounted it better. It was on bent 5/16 bolts dangling 1 1/2" above the base.
I put it on 3/8 threaded rod (to match the holes in the base plate of the motor) with nuts and washers above and below for height adjustment.
This seemed to be working,if a bit underpowered, so I ordered a couple of blades.
Despite the glowing reports Henry Bros. got my order slightly wrong.
I initially ordered a cheap 3/16" blade for my sons 10" GMC and a cheap 1/4" blade for my Paul Call plus an 1/2" bi-metal. They said it would be 2 days before they could do it, so I didn't think it would be a problem to upgrade my 1/4" blade
to bi-metal 2 hours later. They said it would be fine but for some reason they sent me all 3 cheap blades.
When they quoted process they neglected to mention that GST was not included. They even charged GST on the postage.
I don't have time to send them back and by the time I pay postage it is hardly worth it. If I order from them again I
will mention it next time.
In the meantime I decided to try to mount a bigger motor. I had one on an ancient belt driven compressor that had a 2 1/2"
pulley the same as the original.
The base had slots for 5/16 bolts max. To make things worse. they needed to be along the edges of my original holes.
I bolted 19mm ply to the baseboard with 3/8 bolts and recessed the heads. Then I bolted 19mm ply to the motor with 5/16 bolts
and recessed the heads. 3/8 rods through the lot and hey presto.
My inverter ran it fine but it was way too fast. I tried in Glen Innes and Armidale put couldn't find any smaller pulleys to match any of my motors.
Off with the whole assembly and back to the original motor.
When the blades arrived I put the 1/4" on first. It wouldn't track at all. The only thing that had been keeping the old blade on was the fact it was adjusted right up against the guide bearings.
The tires seemed to be solid enough, but worn concave by the blade.
Thanks to advice from Mathew, :cl I got out the masking tape. I had 3/4/' tape and 1" wide wheels. A bit of creative overlapping and the problem was soon solved.
I went to try the 1/2" blade next. As soon as I tried to cut the motor struggled. As I adjusted the tension it struggled a bit more. It wouldn't even run after a few days. The motor was dying.
Back to town, order 1 1/4" pulley for other motor, wait a week and remount it. You guessed it... the V belt is way too long now. Lucky for me I have 20-30 of them in varying sizes. I found one with slots in the back (much better for my small pulley) and much to my joy I found that as long as my batteries are charged my inverter handles it fine. :cl
I need to make a tall fence next.
It saws nicely if I clamp a board 1mm or 2mm closer to the blade at the front than at the rear. Is this normal? :gui
Martyn

The glass is half full... but I'll have another while your up!

It's not over until Ricky Pontin cries! (Not long now).

Great minds like a think!

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kiwigeo
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Re: Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

Post by kiwigeo » Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:57 pm

Tonxi wrote:
It saws nicely if I clamp a board 1mm or 2mm closer to the blade at the front than at the rear. Is this normal? :gui
Sounds like you need to adjust the fence for drift.
Martin

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Tonxi
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Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:36 am
Location: 55km SE Glen Innes NSW

Re: Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

Post by Tonxi » Sat Jul 02, 2011 7:00 pm

kiwigeo wrote:
Tonxi wrote:
It saws nicely if I clamp a board 1mm or 2mm closer to the blade at the front than at the rear. Is this normal? :gui
Sounds like you need to adjust the fence for drift.
I think that is what I am doing by bringing the front of the board (that I am using as a fence) in a bit, isn't it?
Martyn

The glass is half full... but I'll have another while your up!

It's not over until Ricky Pontin cries! (Not long now).

Great minds like a think!

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charangohabsburg
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Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2010 1:25 am
Location: Switzerland

Re: Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

Post by charangohabsburg » Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:46 pm

Yes it is.
Drift can be (normally is) different from blade to blade. As the blade gets duller drift can change too.

Thanks for this absolutely amazing restoration story! :D
Markus

To be stupid is like to be dead. Oneself will not be aware of it.
It's only the others who suffer.

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Kim
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Location: South of Perth WA

Re: Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

Post by Kim » Sat Jul 02, 2011 9:35 pm

Tonxi wrote:
kiwigeo wrote:
Tonxi wrote:
It saws nicely if I clamp a board 1mm or 2mm closer to the blade at the front than at the rear. Is this normal? :gui
Sounds like you need to adjust the fence for drift.
I think that is what I am doing by bringing the front of the board (that I am using as a fence) in a bit, isn't it?
Tonxi,

Grab a piece of straight scrap as long as the saws table and around 40mm thick or better. Draw a line down the centre with a pencil. Use the bandsaw to cut down the line as accurately as you can 'free hand' and when you get half way, turn off the saw without moving the length of scrap. Scribe down the outside of the straight scarp, this is you drift line for THAT particular blade, set your fence at the same angle as this line.

Cheers

Kim

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kiwigeo
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Re: Paul Call bandsaw restoration project.

Post by kiwigeo » Sat Jul 02, 2011 9:36 pm

Martin

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