Final Set-up Classical Guitar

[Kim Strode]

I'm new to guitar building and have only built two guitars, one acoustic (made under tuition) and a classical, made in my own workshop. When I finished the classical guitar I essentially copied the nut and saddle from another manufactured guitar, as I found it difficult to both find information about final set-up and/or understand the procedure outlined in books I looked at.

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The guitar has Blackwood back and sides, Blackwood neck and a Huon Pine soundboard with ebony binding and rosette. I have been told Huon is not suitable for soundboards, but I love the wood.

So now I've finished the classical guitar, which I think sounds pretty good, I'm struggling to know how to go that extra step of altering the nut and saddle to make the guitar sound even better. Can anyone point me to texts or links which might help a novice like me learn and understand the process a little better.

[James Mc]

Hi Kim
What did you use to make your nut and saddle? I’ve found that it can make a heap of difference to the sound to replace the plastic nut and saddle on some classical guitars with bone. However a classical guitar that sounds a bit sharp and has a bone saddle and nut can often be improved by replacing them with horn (or plastic but I’m not a fan of plastic guitar parts).

Here are a couple of links that may be of help

http://www.lutherie.net/saddle_angle.html

http://www.classicalandflamencoguitars. ... ation5.htm

Cheers
James

[James Mc]

P.S. Love the head shape... very swish

[kiwigeo]

Nice work there Kim,

The rosette for some reason makes the whole guitar look a bit different fro classicals with a standard width rossette...might just be my imagination. It has a "modern" look about it....goes nicely with the headstock.

I use bone for my nuts and saddles. I angle my saddle but usually dont bother fine tuning intonation by filing the saddle.

Cheers Martin

[Kim Strode]

The nut and saddle are both made from bone. I purchased the blanks and then shaped them.

[graham mcdonald]

Nut slot height is really pretty simple. If you push the string down between the second and third frets it should just clear the first fret. The gap should be the thickness of a piece of photocopy paper. If it is too low the string will rattle on the first fret, any higher and you are pushing the string out of tune when fretting on the first fret, especially on a classical.

The other factor is the size of the slot. On a classical the string should sit in the slot to about half the diameter of the string, in a slot wide enough for the string to sit snugly, without having to be forced into the slot nor flopping about in it. An appropriate set of nut files is essential.

Classical guitars do not play in tune. Between the vagaries of nylon strings and the limitations of standard fretting they will not ever play in tune. If you closely watch a good classical guitarist they are constantly pushing and pulling notes into tune. The good players stop worrying about exact intonation and just play music. They do need 2mm or so of extra string length at the bridge, but the idea of a compensated nut is, I think, more work than it is worth.

There is a complicated geometry around the neck angle and fretboard thickness of a classical guitar, which I don't think any of the books on the subject have really tackled entirely successfully. There are some basic principles which they don't really explain simply and clearly.

In retrospect, I suspect you might find the Huon a bit too heavy to really work well on a classical guitar, but it is a delight to work. If you have any more, consider using it for a flamenco guitar back and sides.

After two instruments, you are probably addicted like the rest of us. Have fun with the next one.

cheers

graham

[Bob Connor]

Great work Kim.

I too like the modern look of the headstock.

How would you describe the sound of the Huon top as compared to another classical with a standard Spruce or Cedar top?

Bob

[Allen]

That's a great looking guitar. When I see most Classical guitars, they have kept so much to the traditional look, that they get a little...well boring for my taste. For me the headstock really sets this one apart. Good onya for trying different woods too. If you don't try them, how will you ever know.

I find that if there is ever a question that I don't know the answer to, or just want a refresher, I go to Frank Ford's site.

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html

While there may not be info specific to setting up Classical guitars, you will find a wealth of information on all sorts of things related to guitars, their set up, repair etc.

Great second effort.

[Serge]

Welcome to the forum Kim!

Very nice guitar and as a steel string lover, i must admit that this classical's look truly sets it apart from what i'm accustomed to see in the classical department.

Can't help you much with the question but you're in the right place mate, there is always someone willing to help!

Oh and if possible mate, bring pics of the back and the sides, we're wood junkies here!

[Hesh1956]

Very nice Kim!!

Sorry I did not welcome you sooner I was out in the street protecting Billy's honor......

[Kim]

Very Nice work Kim and what a fantastic name you have. I can tell right off that you are a truly wonderful person

Cheers

Kim