Another way to inlay a back strip

[Allen]

I'm finding all kinds of uses for my table saw and dado blades. Besides cutting the lap joint in X-braces so quick and accurately it becomes a no brainer, I decided to pull out the camera and document inlaying a back strip.

First up, I cut a test dado in some scrap to determine the exact width of cut.



Then I measure the back strip to be inlayed. You can see that there is a difference of .008 between the dado that has been cut and the one required. So I pull out a .010 dado shim to add to the stack. This will give .002 extra. Just enough for a snug fit.



Make another test cut, adjusting for depth of cut as well, and do a trial fit. The dado you can see at the top of the image was the original that was too narrow. The back strip is inlayed into the correct sized dado in the scrap test piece.



Line up the center of the back with the center of the dado blades.
[EDIT] I should have mentioned to set the rip fence so that the cut can be made accurately.



Then make your cut.



Glue up and clamp with your preferred method.



Finish sanded, ready for bracing.



The whole operation took far longer to photograph than the actual work. The beauty of using the shims is that they are so accurate, that it takes all the guess work out of the process.

[Mark McLean]

I had to Google "dado blades" before I got it, but that seems a great system. A table saw is on my wish list (and my birthday next month ) so I am keen to learn about cool things I might be able to do.

While I am thinking about it - what advice can you all give me about choosing a table saw?

[Allen]

You have to be realistic about what you want to do with a table saw. Don't buy a little contractors saw if you want to be ripping large sheets of ply accurately, or ripping large timbers all day long.. At the same token, do not buy a panel saw if you need it to be mobile, and very occasional use.

A well built saw is a real joy to use, and a cheap, flimsy one will make you wish you never bought it. If you've never used a table saw before, some of these questions are not going to be obvious right away. It'd be great if we could all buy the one saw that would do us for the rest of our lives, but realistically, I can only suggest to get the best that you're wallet, space and wife will allow.

Weight is a big factor in the stability of a saw. Heavier is usually better. Less vibration means cleaner cuts. The fence is the heart of the saw. Beissemeyer style fences are about the best you'll find.

You'll also need to invest in some good blades. Just one combination blade will do, but it's a compromise for all you cuts. Get into the habit of changing the blade for the type of cut you intend to do.

[kiwigeo]

Allen,

What is the top registering against while doing the cut?

Cheers Martin

[Allen]

It's running up against the fence Martin. This is only going to work if the stock for your back was dead square. They usually are, but if at all possible, I always like to run them through the saw just to square everything up before joining the plates together.

It makes doing things like this just so much easier if you do. The added bonus of using a really good blade is that many times you only just need to kiss the glueing surface with a plane to get a perfect fit.