converting plans
converting plans
hey guys,
soon i will have a full size plan of my guitar to follow while i build. for things such as bracing, does anyone have any really good methods of converting full size plans to the soundboard without having to cut the plan up?
cheers
soon i will have a full size plan of my guitar to follow while i build. for things such as bracing, does anyone have any really good methods of converting full size plans to the soundboard without having to cut the plan up?
cheers
JM,
Photo copy the plans, no need for a full size copy as long as all parts are covered, I use A3. Then use spray glue to glue them to an mdf sheet. I just line up all the overlaped bits. Then you have a nice line to cut and sand up to.
Drill holes where all your braces intersect each other or end so you can mark through them with a pencil when placed over your top.
I actually use clear sheet so I can see the grain through but mdf or masonite is fine.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Dom
Photo copy the plans, no need for a full size copy as long as all parts are covered, I use A3. Then use spray glue to glue them to an mdf sheet. I just line up all the overlaped bits. Then you have a nice line to cut and sand up to.
Drill holes where all your braces intersect each other or end so you can mark through them with a pencil when placed over your top.
I actually use clear sheet so I can see the grain through but mdf or masonite is fine.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Dom
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- Mark McLean
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Make a clear perspex template. It only needs to be the size of half the soundboard (down the long axis). Like Dom said, then you can see the grain through the template which helps to decide where to cut. Drill holes through the template at the points corresponding to ends of each brace so that you can mark the soundboard with a pen/pencil at those points.
Mark
Mark
- John Maddison
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Hiya JM
The A3 photocopying idea is a good one, tho' Localele's right too ... DO make sure you check measurements on the copy - copier machines, despite their advanced features, can play funny tricks.
I'd highly recommend you check out Robbie O'Brien's excellent video on Top Bracing ... he elegantly uses a (thin) cardboard replica drawn from his original plan that he lays over his wood to draw the edges (via notches in the cardboard) of where braces should be positioned.
If you aren't into tech drawing to re-produce the cardboard template 'long-hand', maybe try using pieces of carbon paper (read: OLD technology, this stuff was used in an ancient thing called a 'typewriter'
) laid between your original plan and the piece of cardboard - just draw carefully along the lines of your plan using a ruler and a reasonably fine-tip pen, or Biro (another old technology), or 2H pencil ... this then leaves a 1:1 duplicated image on the cardboard and you can then cut out the notches with a paper trimmer or scalpel.
BTW - welcome to the forum, it's great to see youth & enthusiasm in the mix! As with all things lutherie, you're in for years of fun!!
Cheers
John
The A3 photocopying idea is a good one, tho' Localele's right too ... DO make sure you check measurements on the copy - copier machines, despite their advanced features, can play funny tricks.
I'd highly recommend you check out Robbie O'Brien's excellent video on Top Bracing ... he elegantly uses a (thin) cardboard replica drawn from his original plan that he lays over his wood to draw the edges (via notches in the cardboard) of where braces should be positioned.
If you aren't into tech drawing to re-produce the cardboard template 'long-hand', maybe try using pieces of carbon paper (read: OLD technology, this stuff was used in an ancient thing called a 'typewriter'

BTW - welcome to the forum, it's great to see youth & enthusiasm in the mix! As with all things lutherie, you're in for years of fun!!
Cheers
John
John M
Flat Polycarbonate sheet can be bought at hardware stores .At about 2mm thick it can easily be cut into patterns with the advantage of being able to see your timber underneath as you mark out.I just trace the pattern through the sheet and then cut to shape ,drill small holes for the intersections of braces to mark through.At my supplier there were two grades at about $24 and $27 per lineal metre. The slightly dearer one stays flatter after it comes off their roll.Cheers.
Put plan on top of top. Use a dress makers pin and pierce through plan into wood at strategic points along brace on plan. Take plan off and join up the pin holes with a pencil.
Me..Ive never used a plan. The only template I use is one for the top/back. Bracing gets laid out using a ruler and bevel.
A big favour...please dont draw the outline of every brace on your top with a black beauty pencil. The top will end up looking like a dolled up floozy whos just walked home through a rain storm!
Me..Ive never used a plan. The only template I use is one for the top/back. Bracing gets laid out using a ruler and bevel.
A big favour...please dont draw the outline of every brace on your top with a black beauty pencil. The top will end up looking like a dolled up floozy whos just walked home through a rain storm!
C'mon Martin. Some of us like that look. You've got your female cello players, and me.... :bhkiwigeo wrote: A big favour...please dont draw the outline of every brace on your top with a black beauty pencil. The top will end up looking like a dolled up floozy whos just walked home through a rain storm!
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