Has anyone used Mirotone 3220 over CA glue grain fill

[6-stringer]

I usually use CA glue as a grain filler. It cures fast and prevent delicate timber from developing cracks, then I clear coat with a NCL high gloss (Silkwood). However I am unhappy the I get crazing of the soundboard after a couple of years.
I am tempted to used Mirotone 3220 but speaking with a Mirotone rep, he wasn't a 100% sure, suggesting that if you can scuff the CA surface the 3220 should (?) be able to adhere.
Has anyone used Mirotone 3220 over CA glue grain fill?

[Allen]

Been years since I've used 3220 but yes, it did work when I did. Though it's only in the pores and not a coating on the surface. I used CA on my head plate veneers to do quick fill before engraving and inlaying. On everything else I use Epoxy and there is no issues at all.

I use Mirotone polyurethane now and would never go back to Nito

[6-stringer]

Thanks Allen for your response.
What Mirotone products do you use?

[Allen]

All these products are the premium ones in their line. Most expensive as well, but I've simply never come across a product that is even close to how good they are on timber. Switching to them has taken a minimum 4 weeks off my finishing schedule over Nitro, and the finish quality can't even be compared. This was a huge bottleneck in my business that now is no issue at all.

I use PU 5545 Clear Sealer first up. Very easy no clog sanding sealer.

Then PU 5555 Clear Topcoat.

5474 Hardner goes in both products, and 1218 Ultra Slow Thinners is used in both.

[graham mcdonald]

Why would you use CA as a grain filler on a (presumably softwood) soundboard, which does not have grain to fill. I would think the spruce or whatever is moving with humidity changes, and the CA is not!

Cheers

[6-stringer]

Hi Graham,
Let me clarify, I NEVER grain fill any soundboards.
Some Tonewoods such as South American Leopardwood, Wenge etc. can be quite splintery (if there's such word).
I have been using CA Glue as a grain filler for quite sometime with excellent results reducing the risk of the wood splintering/cracking plus the benefit that it dries so quick that I can can apply several layers for a excellent pore fill and I spray Nitro top coats without using any sealer and i had no problem with adhersion. What I also like about NOT using a sealer is the depth and clarity of the wood grain with a high gloss topcoats

I have been using Wattyl Stylwood but after a couple of years I noticed some soundboards are showing finish cracking / crazing.
On solid body electrics some players love it as part of the relic looking but I don't like it on acoustics.
Members of this forum indicate they have a preference for Mirotone that's why I thinks of giving is try.

[graham mcdonald]

I suspect that the Wattyl product does not have enough plasticisers to allow it to move with the soundboards. Anecdotal evidence over the years suggests just about every nitro lacquer manufacturer has had that problem at one time or another!

Cheers

[6-stringer]

Allen
Clearing the Urethane finish using PU 5545 and PU 5555 is the way to go.

Silly question but I do need to ask. Do you still use a pore filler on such timbers as Rosewood and mahogany OR does the PU 5545 replace the pore filler?

[Allen]

No, the finish does not replace pore filling.

You still need to get that right if you want a a mirror like finish.