Sizes and storage of resawn timber

[sleake]

Hi all.

Having built up a reasonable amount of 1/4 sawn, beautiful and 'musical' timber from a variety of species (blackwood, Silky Oak, Tas oak, NG rosewood etc....) I am now looking at my options for the moderate to long term storage of it...... I have more than enough for a few years/lifetimes of building - but don't tell my girlfriend - I still need more!

So I have a range of sizes and dimensions, ranging from 19 x 100 mm up to 50 x 220 mm and from 20 cm to 4 meters long.

I also have access to a cabinetmakers awesome 19 inch bandsaw and his many resaw blades (good friend) so I have the gear, but would prefer to do it all in one day or so, rather than break down boards every now and then - just to keep out of his hair.

So what dimensions do you aim for when resawing, particularly in regard to non guitar sizes - ukes and mandos as I don't know what you would aim for with them.....

So a hit list of what I want - guitar, ukes of all sizes and arch top mando back and side sets, and necks for them also

What sizes do you guys aim for when resawing for these parts? I don't have pans for many of them but know I want to do it 'one day'..... so would like to have the stuff on hand. Also want to make the most from the timber I have by tessellating different parts from the same boards - eg guitar sides and uke back and tops from the one wide board etc.

Also, is it worth end sealing with wax or at least shellac as I saw? Some are already but there will be some long boards that will have very fresh ends - well seasoned but still fresh ends..... better safe than sorry

Thanks for your input everyone. Steve

[curly]

Geez Steve ,
That's a lot of questions together in one place .
First thing I'd advise is don't resaw too far ahead . Timber can readily be made smaller but cant be made bigger again . If you have a lifetime of stock how could you possibly make a lifetime of judgements so quickly . Plan a few projects and saw your stock out specific to those builds .
Next is how to treat the timber once its docked and sawn . Man there's a lot that could be said there . Where to start . Timber drying is species specific . Also relevant is the moisture content of what you are resawing . If your stock tests above fsp or 25% end seal . Wax emulsion is best , some sawmills just use grease but that's rough . I haven't heard of shellac being used , I can't imagine it would have enough build to be of use . Claggy old water based house paint works to a degree .
Unless your stock is fully dry ( sub 10% ) it will need to be stickered . This is stacking the timber with spacing sticks . Vertical alignment is crucial . A flat base . A flat cap board and top weights are also needed . Those little sticks are a bloody bother to make , people use mdf or the plastic off yellow tongue flooring . I wouldn't advise either as they can allow an entire stack to go wobbly ( ask me how I know ! ) . My preference is cypress or redwood but most timbers will work to an extent .
So many tangents I could go off on here . I'll leave at that , hopefully its a start .
All the best .
Pete
Curly Timbers .

[Bob Connor]

So a hit list of what I want - guitar, ukes of all sizes and arch top mando back and side sets, and necks for them also

Sounds like you want us to do your research for you!!! All of those dimensions are available using Google.

If you aren't sure or can't be bothered finding out what the sizes of every instrument that you might want to build in the future, I would suggest that you cut everything to fit a Gibson J200.

You can easily adapt that size to anything smaller and use the off cuts for ukes, rosettes, head stock overlays or bindings.

If you've got that much wood and intend on buying more I'd buy a bandsaw. If you cut and sell 10 moderately figured sets of Blackwood you've paid for your own re-saw bandsaw. Your mate isn't going to be your mate for too long if you are just going to blunt his blades. There ain't much change out of $200 for a decent re-saw blade and I can kill one of those in a mornings work cutting Blackwood.

Or follow Curly's advice and re-saw it when you want to build something. A serious amateur builder on this forum will build 10 instruments a year, the commercial builders like Perry will do heaps more. Most of the blokes here will do one or two.

Regards

Bob

[kiwigeo]

If you aren't sure or can't be bothered finding out what the sizes of every instrument that you might want to build in the future, I would suggest that you cut everything to fit a Gibson J200.

Nah I'd play it safe and size all your sets for a double bass

[TimS]

Ditto ditto ditto to all the comments!

[sleake]

Geez Steve ,
That's a lot of questions together in one place .
First thing I'd advise is don't resaw too far ahead . Timber can readily be made smaller but cant be made bigger again . If you have a lifetime of stock how could you possibly make a lifetime of judgements so quickly . Plan a few projects and saw your stock out specific to those builds .
Next is how to treat the timber once its docked and sawn . Man there's a lot that could be said there . Where to start . Timber drying is species specific . Also relevant is the moisture content of what you are resawing . If your stock tests above fsp or 25% end seal . Wax emulsion is best , some sawmills just use grease but that's rough . I haven't heard of shellac being used , I can't imagine it would have enough build to be of use . Claggy old water based house paint works to a degree .
Unless your stock is fully dry ( sub 10% ) it will need to be stickered . This is stacking the timber with spacing sticks . Vertical alignment is crucial . A flat base . A flat cap board and top weights are also needed . Those little sticks are a bloody bother to make , people use mdf or the plastic off yellow tongue flooring . I wouldn't advise either as they can allow an entire stack to go wobbly ( ask me how I know ! ) . My preference is cypress or redwood but most timbers will work to an extent .
So many tangents I could go off on here . I'll leave at that , hopefully its a start .
All the best .
Pete
Curly Timbers .

Thanks Curly/ Everyone.

When I say a stack - im a very small fish in a big pond - if I sawed half of it I might have 10 uke sets, 5 guitar sets and a few odds and ends - plenty to keep me going though.

Anyway, bit the bullet for some of it this weekend, managed to scrounge a variety of instruments (3 ukes, mando and a variety of guiitars) and got out the rule and caliper, so now have my sizes sorted and split some boards down.

All went well, no dramas and 4 nice uke sets and a few necks from 2 small blackwood boards - really happy with the yield rate.

Thanks again everyone. Steve