nitro recommendations- what works for you ?

[Stu]

I've just about finished the last of my current pre-cat nitro supply
of Wattyl stylwood and want to try out other brands.

As I've only ever used stylwood I have no idea what works as well , worse
or better than what I've used.

My question to all you thinners based nitro users (pre-cat, acid cat or other) is what do you use that you could recommend .
I'm sure there are nitro products out there that are geared 100% towards
guitar builders and available in oz.. ie. mirotone & durobond ?

And why were at it, if you've tried a few types, what didn't float your boat?

BTW I'm interested in trying waterbased lacquers but for now I need a
thinners based replacement product.


Cheers, Stu

[Dominic]

Hey, I've just been spraying with high gloss mirotone and it has come out really nice. I use pretty cheap guns but the finish one my last 2 guitars was great. I used durabond before and I can't say if I have just got my act together more or not but the mirotone just seemed pretty effortless. And I can get it here in Canberra.
Cheers
Dom

[sebastiaan56]

Personally I prefer C4, faster burn rate, ohhh this isnt the Mythbusters Forum, sorry

[jackspira]

Hi Stu, I can recomend the Acid catalyst lacquer from Air Lac in Sunshine ( industrial drive, sunshine) Its the best solvent based finish I've found so far and have been using it for many years.
I'm pretty sure they do a straight nitro cellulose lacquer as well. I don't have the same experience with their nitro but judging by the consistently good quality of the A/C they do I'd reckon its pretty good.
jack

[Stu]

Thanks Dominic and Jack for your experiences.

I'm interested in the acid-cat and curious as to your set-up
when using the stuff, Jack. I'll pm you later on if you don't mind sharing
some ideas on application.

I trawled through past threads and found this , which I think brings Bob and Allen's perspective on things.

viewtopic.php?t=1220

[Stu]

I thought I'd add an ending of sorts to this thread as to what my
choice of finish was.

I went with Mirotone Mirocat 3220
I also grabbe 1220 thinners and 1242 for a slower cure.

So far I'm really impressed with how the mirocat works compared to the Wattyl Stylwood. Quite different with flow-out and dry times.
The Mirotone seems to cure slower which aids in burn in and flow out.
Here's a quick pic. of things so far after some dye, a little burst and 5 coats of Mirocat.



Thanks for your recommendations.


cheers, Stu

[Kim]

Now THAT is one horny looking axe, you just gotta be thrilled with that Stu it looks absolutely shit hot.

Well Done

Kim

[Mark McLean]

Fantastic guitar Stu, and the finish looks sensational over that outrageous quilting. It looks so 3D that you could dive right into it!
Mark

[Localele]

The Miritone seems to be a much clearer lacquer than the old Stylewood.Stylewood also seemed to be a bit brittle when it first came out.Like it got too hard and didn't allow for much movement of the timber underneath.
Your Guitar looks fantastic and will only get better with a cut back and a few more coats.What is the veneer and did you vacuum bag the cap on?Or is it solid?Cheers.

[sebastiaan56]

Stu,

I dont know jack about Nitro but I know when Im looking at porn, fabulous

[DarwinStrings]

Jack is the acid cat your talking about from Erlac (pronounce air lac) if so then that is the finish that Maton use on all their guitars that retail over $1000. I have a friend that has used it on cabinetry and he recommends it as a great finish as well.

Jim

[Stu]

The Miritone seems to be a much clearer lacquer than the old Stylewood.Stylewood also seemed to be a bit brittle when it first came out.Like it got too hard and didn't allow for much movement of the timber underneath.
Your Guitar looks fantastic and will only get better with a cut back and a few more coats.What is the veneer and did you vacuum bag the cap on?Or is it solid?Cheers.

I'd agree with your thoughts on stylwood being too brittle once dry.

This geet is a Makore neck through body with a 3/4" quilt maple top.
This one's now sitting to cure for a few weeks after getting 5 coats then a week to sink back, blocked flat then another 3 coats and a block back then the final two.

Here's a link to a few progress pics. to explain the build process a bit better.
http://www.bluestoneguitars.com/html/ia ... vetop.html
I'll post the finished article in a few weeks.

cheers, Stu

[Allen]

I've seen some nice finish in my days Stu, and that's going to stand up there with any of them. That looks fabulous.

I've found that while you can go at the Mirotone in a couple of weeks, it really does benefit from longer. Seems to really tighten up, and you will get a better and higher gloss. If you can let it sit as long as you can before the final sand and buff.

My last maple guitar sat 4 1/2 weeks and really was easier to sand and buff.

[Stu]

Thanks for your experience , Allen. You are 'the refinish guru !!'

I was initially sceptical in thinking possibly the two types of Pre-cat nitro
could possibly be the same product but rebadged as does happen with
other things.................(just random musings)

Well these two brands are like chalk and cheese.
The mirotone will definitely take longer to gas off compared to
the stylwood so longer dry times are a foregone conclusion,
but I've found Mirotone to be so much more user-friendly.
If my refinishing skills get better with the Mirotone then I can't be
anything but happy.

I'm still wanting to hear of people's experiences with the acid-cat
So if you're out there Mr. Spira (or anyone else) , It'd be great to get your take on the benefits and the drawbacks associated from somebody who's used the stuff.
Allen, have you tried acid-cat?

cheers, Stu

[Allen]

I've only used the pre-cat 3220. I've been curious to try the acid cat, but the place that I buy it doesn't carry it in stock, so can't break it down into a 1 litre trial size for me. I haven't been able to justify buying 4 litres and then not liking it.