F hole planning

[Jehu]

Hey folks,

I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I'm building my first archtop, and I'm close to finishing the outside arches. I plan to cut the f holes by hand (coping saw), and I'm torn whether to do them now or after I have hollowed out the inner arches.

Pro: The f holes will be easier to position on a flat surface. There will also be less chance or anything tragic happening while sawing a thicker slab versus the thinner (almost) finished top plate.

Con: I anticipate the carving process to be a much more delicate procedure with two large, ornate holes in the plate. But having never done this before, maybe those fears are baseless.

Any thoughts from those who have archtop experience? Thanks!

[rocket]

Graduate the plate first and then cut "F" holes with a fret saw, a coping saw doesn't have enough reach, also a fret saw is less aggressive.
Rod.

[rocket]

To make it a bit easier to set out your sound holes on the arched surface you con make your set put templates from a flexible material such as cardboard, light gauge sheet metal, sheet plastic.

[simso]

Same as rocket,

Got a customer doing a guitar building course and he is doing a 12 string jazz,

He has cut the F holes after shaping the top and before attaching to the cutaway section

Current progress

[Nick]

Firstly welcome to the forum!
Cut after carving! If you cut first you are bound to tear out spruce especially from the delicate corners/ points by the end holes! As Rod said,make yourself a template out of a sheet of thick paper or thin cardboard with one edge that sits along the centreline of the top. If you put a mark on this edge that matches the mid 'point' of the F hole ( put a square on the edge and slide it along until it is on the point then just put a mark on the edge) then all you have to do is mark on the top where the centre of your saddle is going to sit and match the mark you made on your template, to this mark and your F hole is then in the right place! As Rod said, use a fretting saw as it has a deeper throat and keep the saw square with the work bench when cutting. If you aren't too certain of your cutting skills then cut about 2-3mm inside the line and then clean it and 'square' it up with files and sanding sticks.
Don't forget to slap a few pics on the forum here up as you progress, we'd love to see it

[rocket]

Another little tip, seal around your cut line with a couple of Coates of shellac or some thinned down white glue, this well give the spruce a bit of stiffness and protection against chipping and tearout.
Rod.

[Jehu]

Thanks for the welcome and the wisdom, folks. I will follow your advice (and post pics as requested!).