Mirotone Mirobild & Mirocat

[017]

Hi ANZLF,

Does anyone here have experience with Mirobild? I know a few of you use and like Mirocat 3220, but I can't seem to find anyone anywhere online familiar with Mirobild 3606.

In addition, can the Mirocat experts here confirm whether 3220 (and Mirobild 3606 if indeed anyone's familiar with it) will properly cure on rosewood? I emailed Mirotone a while back and they didn't seem to understand what I was talking about.

Thankyou.

[56nortondomy]

Let us know your name 017, and introduce yourself, welcome to the forum. I've used the 3220 on Honduran R/w and it cured fine. Wayne

[017]

Wayne,

Thanks for the help. And introduce myself I shall do!

Hi,

I am merely a beginner in this field of instrument building/manufacture/assembly. I am partially underway building a solid body electric Telecaster-style guitar. Perhaps "building" is a word that implies too much considering what I am actually building, but nevertheless. I will be making the body and pickguard using a CNC I have access to, with the rest of the parts purchased from aftermarket suppliers.

Fast forwarding to coating systems and spraying in general. I have zero experience spraying, so why not learn. I know a guy who will help me spray, but I want to learn as much as possible before I start. If I remember correctly, he has experience with Mirothane 2K, Mirolac and Mirobild. He is not familiar with Mirocat. Since I don't want to spend a lot on an external air fed positive pressure mask, Mirothane 2K is not an option. Therefore my options are either Mirocat and Mirobild. I'm not considering Mirolac, because as far as I can tell, you can no longer get it in clear (and everyone seems to say Mirocat is superior).

As mentioned, one of my main concerns is proper curing over rosewood. I know some oxygen absorbing systems will remain sticky and gummy when applied to rosewood, so I want to know for certain the systems I'm considering won't pose a problem.

Thanks again,
Michael.

[56nortondomy]

Thanks for the introduction Michael, everyone starts somewhere. I've also used the 3220 on Cocobolo and had no issues, cures fine. I just use a cannister mask when spraying, as long as you use the right cartridges they offer good protection. Wayne

[nnickusa]

I've just had a spray with some 3220 on Bubinga. I know, not a Dalberga sp. but, it ran like crazy on the first coat. I mean side to side runs, and about four on the back. I sprayed a light cover coat as usual, but I am happy i learned how to fix runs.....

I used the same batch I mixed to finish coat a Blackheart sassafras, over 3220, and had nary a run. Not too sure what to make of it all, but I'm working through it. I am sure the lacquer is OK, because of the other guitar....

Ah well, if that's the only problem I have on this build I'll be OK with it all.....

[017]

Think I might go with 3220. I've discovered 3606 requires both parts to be set aside after combining/mixing for 15 minutes before you can thin it. For someone like me, a few less steps can only be a good thing.

Thanks again to everyone.

[017]

Hi,

I plan on mixing product and thinner at a 50:50 ratio. What specific thinner/s would you guys recommend for this ratio?

I understand many factors come into play when choosing fast/medium/slow thinners. I can tell you that I will be spraying indoors in a dedicated spray booth/room with extraction. I'd guess the temperature range would be between 25 to 30 degrees (could get as high as 35 on occasion). Humidity at the moment fluctuates between 40% to 60%. Not sure what type of gun, but I think it will be of the gravity feed touch-up variety.

Thanks again.