Pore filling for solid colours...

[nnickusa]

I'm gonna play around with a bit of airbrush work on the SG body and neck I bought, which surprisingly hasn't got a scarf joint at the headstock, but is solid right thru.

It's all mahogany of some sort....

Since I want to start with a black base, I can't see any reason to not just use regular wood filler to get it nice and smooth. Anyone?

Also, does anyone know where to source a tint for Mirotone that will be solid black once sprayed? And, can I use water based paints to airbrush on top of that, or won't it stick properly?

Just wasting time while I wait for the fretboard binding to dry on the cutaway.....

[simso]

If your going a solid colour, then dont use tints with a clear, when I paint a body for example black, I treat it as If I was painting a car, primer filler / sand / topcoat solid / sand / clear coat

[Nick]

If your going a solid colour, then dont use tints with a clear, when I paint a body for example black, I treat it as If I was painting a car, primer filler / sand / topcoat solid / sand / clear coat

+1

[nnickusa]

Thanks.

[Dominic]

Yeh, I made a bright orange electric for Julie a few years ago and we went to the auto paint shop and got this grey sanding sealer which was really easy to sand but built up in the pores as well. It was so easy to get a super flat base. Then the orage went on so easily and again was simple to cut back and polish. Can't remember what type of paint it was but it was whatever the modern car finishes are. Still looks lovely that guitar and the finish was not too thick.
Particularly for black, you want a super super flat base or it will show up.
Cheers
Dom

[Allen]

I'd paint it as if it was a car. That is, using automotive high fill primer surfacer. Sand smooth and then finish in desired color.

If you don't want to go the 2pak route, then Mirotone does do solid colours. Just ask your supplier to see the color chart and choose.

[nnickusa]

Right, standard auto technique it is. I've done a few of those, so I hope it'll work out.

i'll test the airbrush paints on a sample blank before trying the guitar. never done any airbrush work, but have hopes to make a "Hot Rod" SG with cool flames on black....Well, eventually. Still gotta finish the OM cutaway, which I think will be tru-oil, as I bought a kit for that... yeesh, I gotta get a regular job. 70 hours a week doesn't leave much time....

[simso]

Air brushing is a true skill.

I have the gear and experimented many a time, even went and did an airbrush course, it's practice and an eye for layers.

If you have never done it yet, then get some vinyl outline templates to get you started

Post pics

[nnickusa]

Will do. I bought some stencils for flame work, and they came with a DVD of instructions from Mike Devaliere(?) Can't remember, but will let you know when I watch it again.

Looks very cool. As he says, too, it takes practice, so I'll make a few hunks to work, or try to, it all out.

Could be fun. Also bought some black lacquer in a can to lay down the base coats. I reckon I'll need to spray, level, and spray, then sand and steel wool to get a consistent finish.....Nice thing about working on black, according to the DVD, is, if you stuff up, you just spray it over with black and try again

[Taffy Evans]

Thanks for the thread Nick, and for the answers guy's. I have just come on to ask the same question as I have two customers wanting solid black colors, I hate hiding the wood grain but it's what they want. Timing is everything, three cheers for the forum.

[nnickusa]

Hey Taffy.

I've ordered some Behlens nitro, one in jet black and one clear in aero cans, from Guitar Australia.

Don't knpw if anyone else has used them, but I've had reasonable results. I've also seen Behlen products in use on other forums, and they seem to be well-enough regarded to try it..

As Steve asked, I'll post shots and a review of the products as I go, if that'll help you at all. It's a nitro lacquer, so I may use it down the road, as I'd really like a black acoustic for Johnny Cash numbers