Pattern following bits and router tables

[auscab]

Good idea.
This climbing cut sound like madness to me with out power feed. Nicks idea sound like a good idea though.
but I would think only for the smallest of cuts like binding or purfling rebates. It's not the sort of thing that I would do cutting a solid body for an electric . No way.
I have a friend who spray painted part of his work shop with his fingers doing a climbing cut on his spindle moulder.
If things go wrong with a climbing cut you may not be able to reach for the button.
low enough so you could hit it with your knee would be good. sometimes if things start to go wrong the last thing you want to do is take your hands of the work.
I have that feature on my lathe { knee push } but the two machines I would like it on the most would be the router table and the Table saw.

[liam_fnq]

Just got home from the shops and found one zero volt router switch dumped on my front doorstep.

Where from?

[Phil Mailloux]

I use one of those big ass 2" cut ones with bearings at both ends on a Triton 3hp router in the table, I cut to as close as possible to the lines with the bandsaw before routing, forget about taking large chuncks out with the router table it's a recipe for disaster, same thing with climb cutting, never do that on a router table, at best you'll have a large hole in the wall, at worst that hole will be in your stomach... Oh, and I take the tinyest cuts at a time.

[kiwigeo]

Just got home from the shops and found one zero volt router switch dumped on my front doorstep.

Where from?

From these guys: http://www.woodworksupplies.com.au/prod375.htm

Same guys that supplied my unilift router lifter. A great mob....products are top notch and so is the service.

[Dominic]

Hey Martin, what sort of router table have you got? This a new thing?
Dom

[kiwigeo]

Hey Martin, what sort of router table have you got? This a new thing?
Dom

The table is self built....its built around a Unilift router lifter.

[Trevor Gore]

For me, the main idea behind the top and bottom bearings was so that I could (largely) avoid climb cuts. Adjust the cutter height and flip the job.

Sometimes, it's hard to avoid the climb cut, like on headstocks. But the piece is bigger, heavier and you can keep your pinkies well out of the way.

[auscab]

Yes that's got to be the best way if the job fits between the bearings, I was thinking of it a different way with my last post. All the other ways it can go wrong. First time I have seen a cutter with one at both ends, I looked up Carbitools catalogue, and they don't seem to have them listed .

[EricDownunder]

. Most of the cutters Ive seen with the bearing on the end of the cutter are designated as trimming cutters and not really ideal for removing a large amount of material.

No router bit is ideal for removing large amounts of material.
You should check out the spiral bits as well.

I was speaking with the FLAI rep and he strongly recommended trying out his router bits and table saw blades (as he would of course). I asked the local shop and they said the FLAI are better than CMT and about the same price. Tell carba tec you want something a bit better than CMT and I am told they will tell you to go with FLAI.

I used one recently with the bearing below the cutter it seemed to work realy well untill the the piece I was doing flew across the room hitting my son-in-law in the guts, no blood or tears just a few s************f*****, my router is a normal 12mm Makita, I think I need to buy a slower router.
Any ideas

Where you feeding against the spin of the bit or with it. Feeding with it is asking for trouble on a table router. Try feeding with the blade on your table saw

All correct procedures were done correctly, first a bandsaw cut as close as possible to the mark, the dirction af cutter against the workpiece was correct, the problem area was the end grain the material was tasi blackwood, on close examination of the small hole left in the work there appears to be no broken or torn fibres just a nice clean hole about the size of a tray bit (thripeny piece)

[kiwigeo]

Yes that's got to be the best way if the job fits between the bearings, I was thinking of it a different way with my last post. All the other ways it can go wrong. First time I have seen a cutter with one at both ends, I looked up Carbitools catalogue, and they don't seem to have them listed .

Rob youll have to add a bearing and stop as Trev has done with the CMT flush trim bit. Page 10 of the Carbitool catalogue has bits that should be suitable.