Establishing the depths on any kind of carving is the hardest part. Working with patterns, cutting and fitting on an archtop takes me forever. With this method I can establish accurate depths very quickly. Then power plane as close as I dare. This is where the fun part of the carving begins. The rest, for me, is tedious waste removal.
This would be useful for one-off new arching patterns or a new master for a copy router.
When I came to the arching at the waist I had to start planing back the base of the router. The red crayon marks indicate where the router deviates from the actual pattern. This isn't a bad thing because that's where the recarve area is.
I didn't do a pattern for the upper bouts, just hand sawed to a guesstimated depth. This area is almost straight, so I've under sawn it and will carve the arches later.
This was only going to be a test piece. It's flat sawn Hoop with blue mold and some insect attack. I am going to make a no frills guitar out of it, with a flat sawn back as well. This will be a personal instrument and something I can monitor over the years to see how it behaves. It's the same timber as the cupboard in the last photo. It also has blue mold and insect attack. Surface has been textured with a plane and polished with some walnut dirty shellac. I want to go for the same surface on the guitar.
Hope you enjoy.
compared to an arch top. this surprised me? they look a lot more complex. if you take the shaping of the top and back out of the equation from that point on ,is it a more simple construction ? no radiused edges. but that's about it, isn't it?