ALDI Tools

Hippety Hop · Post by **Hippety Hop** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 10:43 am

My Dremel hasn't got much life left in it, so yesterday I went to Southland and grabbed one of these bargains.

Got home and tried the Stew-Mac precision router base on it. Shhh-t. Doesn't fit.

It's a wonder you didn't hear me squawk.

Now I have to go back to that awful place. What if there's an earthquake? They'd dig my body out 6 weeks later. If at all. Might end up as land-fill. Toxic? Better start eating organic food. Just in case.

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:27 am

For $30 I reckon you got a bargain...I'd be keeping my eye on how long the bearings last though.

Dennis Leahy · Post by **Dennis Leahy** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:14 pm

They have a Chinese version of that in the States, sold at Harbor Freight, for $5 to $12, depending on if it is on sale. I know they're junk, and would be afraid to use it on anything critical on a guitar, but for some tasks such as putting a felt buff wheel on it and hitting some small spot on a headstock it would probably be OK.

Dennis

Rick Turner · Post by **Rick Turner** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:34 am

While we certainly use Dremels in some operations, the spindle bearing run-out makes them terrible for precision work. For instance, I'd never do binding and purfling channels or try to rout or re-rout a saddle slot with one. You might want to look into a decent laminate trimmer. We have a set of Bosch ones that have good bearings, though the bases leave much to be desired. With a good aftermarket plunge base added to a good laminate trimmer you have a precision tool that will last for many years.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:56 am

Rick Turner wrote:While we certainly use Dremels in some operations, the spindle bearing run-out makes them terrible for precision work. For instance, I'd never do binding and purfling channels or try to rout or re-rout a saddle slot with one.

Straight out of the box there is an issue with the spindle bearing which is due to a poor molding issue on the lower bearing (don't know what the newer models are like?). The part of the housing where the bearing sits is molded bigger than the bearing, this can be rectified by splitting the casing and giving the bearing a wrap (just the one

) with masking tape, this makes the outer race of the bearing a good tight fit in the oversized case housing and holds & centralizes things nicely. I've had a few years of wobble free service from mine (just cut 1/16th purfling channels accurately on my latest rosette), having said that I wouldn't use it for cutting binding channels, they simply dont have the torque to make such a deep cut. Could be done in several light passes I guess but this, to me, increases the risk of a mistake or a slip with the cutter cropping up.

Craig · Post by **Craig** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:41 am

I've read of Dremmel bearing runout a number of times on luthier type forums. Maybe I just got a good one as it has zero runout . I've never had a problem with it. It has cut binding/purfling ledges, rosettes, saddle slots , inlays and many other tasks. Never any gaps . Being an incredibly fussy builder when it comes to tolerances , I wouldn't use it if isn't wasn't up to the task . I own a Makita Laminate trimmer ,but for me , it's just too bulky on some jobs.

There are a number of jigs I've built for my Dremmel which have proved successful .Here's a link to my binding jig viewtopic.php?t=192

Hip , I have one of those units , and whilst it doesn't have the precision of my Dremmel , is handy for things like little buffing jobs and the like

Paul B · Post by **Paul B** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:30 am

I got a cheapie one. Worked fine until I put a 1/16" bit in it and expected to get a 1/16" channel.

They do have their uses tho.

Hippety Hop · Post by **Hippety Hop** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:22 am

Took it back. Saw a fella walking out with an oilskin coat as I got there, so I went an got one too.

I found when cutting binding ledges the dremel wants to cut deeper when going in the anti-clockwise direction, and I was getting an uneven channel. I noted that StewMac has a piloted bit, but thought by the time I got a couple of those, I could get a Maktec trimmer - so I did.

Still use the dremel for inlay recesses and saddle slots though.

Tom West · Post by **Tom West** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:50 pm

Certainly agree with Rick on this .Think these are much too light for doing binding channels and saddle slots. The Dremel I have has no run out and works like a charm for inlay work ,ramping pin holes, etc, and I want to keep it that way. Have a laminate trimmer and routers for the heavier work.

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:28 pm

Hippety Hop wrote:Took it back. Saw a fella walking out with an oilskin coat as I got there, so I went an got one too.

An oil skin is handy if youre like Hesh and do your bending wearing shorts.

matthew · Post by **matthew** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 2:56 pm

Here's a great use for a dremel or an ALDI

http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?li ... es[]=title

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