A couple of tool questions

brian64 · Post by **brian64** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:37 pm

Hello All,

I got a new Triton random orbital sander today. It seems to work well, but the action seems to have more of a "spin" to it when it's not touching the wood. As I'm new to this type of tool, I was wondering if that's how it should be.

Also, my bandsaw has a lot of wander. How do I improve that? Increase tension?

Thanks in advance.

Brian.

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:34 pm

Hi Brian,

Im not an expert on ROS but if I was hunting for a good machine I would probablly have Triton (=GMC) near the bottom of my list of preferred machines.

Re your bandsaw problems I'd make the following comments:

1. what brand/model of machine is it? What size blade are you running?
2. first thing to check is adjustment on the blade guides.
3. check if blade is worn. On my Carbatec 14" saw when the blades get worn they start to wander.

Cheers Martin

Kim · Post by **Kim** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:02 pm

brian64 wrote:Hello All,

I got a new Triton random orbital sander today. It seems to work well, but the action seems to have more of a "spin" to it when it's not touching the wood. As I'm new to this type of tool, I was wondering if that's how it should be.

Brian.

Brian,

Is this sander an aluminium fitting which you attach to an angle grinder??

brian64 · Post by **brian64** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:41 pm

Thanks for the replies guys,

I'm surprised by your comments about Triton, Martin. I thought Triton was a better quality brand. I know that GMC is a "budget" brand (though I'm happy with my GMC tools), and Ozito is probably a bit below that, but I thought Triton was good. Anyway, at $84 I can't really complain.

Kim, the ROS is a stand alone sander. I used an angle grinder with a flap wheel for bulk removal, and wanted the ROS to avoid hours of hand sanding. It is http://www.triton.com.au/product.php?id=47 this model. At 275W maybe it's underpowered for sanding hardwoods?

The bandsaw is Sherwood 14" entry-level bandsaw. http://www.timbecon.com.au/details/14in ... -8616.aspx . The blade is the one that came with it - I don't know the size. I haven't really used it enough to make the blade blunt - although I'm sure that the blade isn't the best from the get go. I checked the adjustment on the blade guides, and to my novice knowledge, they are adjusted properly.

Thanks,

Brian.

DarwinStrings · Post by **DarwinStrings** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:22 pm

These type of sanders do spin more when they are off the work piece Brian.

What sort of cuts are you making when the blade wanders and does it only drift off to one side?

Jim

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:41 pm

brian64 wrote:Thanks for the replies guys,

I'm surprised by your comments about Triton, Martin. I thought Triton was a better quality brand. I know that GMC is a "budget" brand (though I'm happy with my GMC tools), and Ozito is probably a bit below that, but I thought Triton was good. Anyway, at $84 I can't really complain.

Hi Brian,

I believe GMC bought out Triton some time ago. I also noticed in the paper two days ago that GMC is in financial trouble and looking for buyer. I know some people are happy with their GMC power tools but the ones Ive owned have been absolute cr*p and I usually fork out for something better. Ozito......I once bought an Ozito router on special at my local hardware shop. When I went to use it for the first time the depth locking screws wouldnt stay tight and the thing went straight in the bin where it belonged.

What sort and thickness of wood are you cutting with your bandie? My bandie blades dull quite quickly when cutting through mahogany neck stock and then start to wander.

Kim · Post by **Kim** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:22 pm

brian64 wrote:Thanks for the replies guys,

Kim, the ROS is a stand alone sander. I used an angle grinder with a flap wheel for bulk removal, and wanted the ROS to avoid hours of hand sanding. It is http://www.triton.com.au/product.php?id=47 this model. At 275W maybe it's underpowered for sanding hardwoods?

Thanks,

Brian.

Brian,

That machine looks fine and Jim is correct, it is the nature of these kind of machines to spin a little quick if turned on away from the work surface. The reason I ask my original question is that I thought your ROS may have been one of these suckers, http://www.triton.com.au/product.php?id=59 I have one and it is great for hogging off material and stripping paint but is hardly suitable for instrument building.

Cheers

Kim

Hesh1956 · Post by **Hesh1956** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 1:02 am

Brian I just tuned up my band saws for the first time ever.... a couple of months ago and what a difference it made!!

As much as I hate to admit this I actually got out the manuals that came with the stinkin things and read them (yeah, yeah so I do my best reading in the bathroom...).

Anyway in both cases, two different saws, the procedure was/is:

1) Adjust tension on the blade to where the specs say it should be.
2) Adjust the blade tracking so that it is centered on the tires.
3) Adjust the blocks/bearings for side to side play (this is done on the guides above and below the table).
4) Adjust the bearings behind the blade (there are two one above and one below the table) to engage the blade as per the specs in your manual.

It's actually not unlike tuning up a bicycle and kind of fun. Anyway when done the saw will track very well and is a joy to use.

Good luck.

Mark McLean · Post by **Mark McLean** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:09 am

Hesh, you have convinced me to put in some maintenance time on my band saw this weekend. It is raining so much I won't get any instrument building done. And reading the manual, what an interesting idea! I thought they just shipped those things in case you need to stick something under a leg to even in up.
Mark

Taffy Evans · Post by **Taffy Evans** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:20 am

Gday Brian
I used a RUPES ro/sander for some work, but its angle grinder style 600w 6000rpm, and exspensive, had it for years. About a year ago I bought a new Makita palm sander BO4443 160w but 14000rpm, it's pretty hard to see it moving, I think it does a great job giving a fine mark free finish. Ready for finer finishing if requiered.

Setting up saws/machines, yep it does pay off even though its something that gets put off. This week I spent the best part of a day setting up my table saw. Spent most of the time making the gauge to test and set it up true. With that all done, and new blade and a micky duck new fence and rails its a dream to use. Saved me the cost of a new machine.

Now I've got to look at my 300mm thicknesser and 150mm jointer, as I have not changed or honed the blades since I bought it in 1977. It is due even though it's still doing a good job so thats the next job.

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:37 am

Taffy Evans wrote:

Now I've got to look at my 300mm thicknesser and 150mm jointer, as I have not changed or honed the blades since I bought it in 1977. It is due even though it's still doing a good job so thats the next job.

You havent serviced the machines for 32 years??? How much do ya want for 'em??

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:56 am

Hi Brian just to add on to Hesh's excellent advice please check you're table insert!

If the Insert is damaged or if the blade has wandered it will leave a larger gap either side of the blade this will affect how the blade cuts and will allow it to continue to wander!

Once the table insert is damaged please replace it!

Just thought I would mention it in case it is a problem - they are easy to make and replace use timber inserts or ply or plastic or MDF as these wont dull you're blade or damage them if they cut into the inserts - this will happen as the blade moves during the cut!

Hope this helps!

Dave

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 4:31 pm

Brian,

Heres a link that I found handy when I first got my bandsaw.

http://home.vicnet.net.au/%7Epwguild/i-bndsaw.htm

brian64 · Post by **brian64** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:00 pm

Thanks everyone for all your replies.

Martin, thanks for that link on tuning a bandsaw - I'll have to go through it carefully. You may be right about the blade being dull too. It was a cheap saw, and I'm sure the blade wasn't the best to start with, even though I haven't used it that much. I'm cutting all sorts of things - from 45mm body wood with curves to straight cuts in 25mm stock and thinner. The blade seems to always wander to the left, which makes a fence pretty useless.

Dave, the table insert is in good nick, and you've given a great idea for when (not if) it isn't.

Hesh, thanks for the tuning tips. All good apart from "as per the specs in your manual". For some reason they didn't think that entry level equipment needed that kind of information in the manual

Jim and Kim, thanks for reassuring me about the extra spin when the ROS is off the workpiece. For a cheap bugger it seems to be working well and I got the first piece to baby's bum smooth quite fast with it.

Hopefully I'll have something to show soon!

Cheers,

Brian.

Richard Schnee · Post by **Richard Schnee** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:48 pm

One more band saw tipâ€¦releases the tension on the blade when you are not using it. Constant tension when not in use can cause flat spots on the tires which can add to the tracking problems. The tires will eventually even out when you run the machine for a while, but it takes time.

Deano · Post by **Deano** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 2:08 pm

Hey Brian,
If you can get your hands on the Australian Wood review magazine issue 39, there is a great article with step by step pictures on tuning your bandsaw. I recently followed this guide, and it put a stop to my wandering blade.

Also, this particular issue has an article by Graham Caldersmith, discussing the acoustics of wood to develop a new generation of stringed instruments for those interested.

Dean

DarwinStrings · Post by **DarwinStrings** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:24 pm

Deano I have read as much as I could find on Graham Caldersmith, all those guys that do it different give me great inspiration.

Jim

jjh · Post by **jjh** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:29 am

The biggest difference to my bandsaw was when I found out about drift angle, and set the fence over at that angle, the way to find this is to take a piece of scrap parallel to a straight edge draw a straight line, cut freehand down the line and the angle you need to feed the work in to cut a straight line is the drift angle set your fences to that angle and you'll cut straighter and smoother

Richard Schnee · Post by **Richard Schnee** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:20 am

I donâ€™t know if you are resawing or not but here is another tip. Band saw blades will follow the path of least resistance. You can cut a Â¾â€

kiwigeo · Post by **kiwigeo** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:41 pm

Some good info on tuning bandsaws being posted up here...keep it up guys. Im putting aside an hour tomorrow to give my old gerty a tune up.

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