The first step is to mark the front edge (i.e. that butts onto the fretboard edge) of the nut on the top of the main neck with the back edge being the start of the downward sloping headstock. Then a scrap piece of wood the width of the nut is glued on where the nut will be. I didn't take a photo this time but here's one from an earlier build:

Back to this build. When the glue is dry, this scrap piece is sanded in line with the headstock face angle - in effect the headstock is brought forward to the nut edge and is stepped up from the man neck face. The top and back headstock veneers are then glued on and the headstock shaped:

Then the channels for the headstock bindings are routed. The bottom of the routed channel should be in line with the top of the necks fingerboard plane where it meets. This means that the purfling lines will meet and it also means that you can safely rout past the end of the headstock and the bit will not touch the fingerboard plane of the neck :

The bindings are mitred, cut to length and glued in:

The bindings are scraped flush with the headstock. Then the nut slot is cut. A block is made with the bottom sloping at the same angle as the headstock. This is attached to the headstock with double-stick tape at the line of the back edge of the nut. The face is perpendicular to the fretboard face. Using the block as a guide a fret saw is used to make a cut in the ebony veneer that stops just short of the bwb purfling:

Next using the laminate trimmer and a straight-edge fence the rest of the nut slot is cut in the plane of the headstock. This is done carefully with a number of passes until the depth is down to the start of the bwb purfling. This is definitely not a time to sneeze


Here's the result:

Here's the fingerboard butted against the headstock showing the continuation of the bwb purfling:

Eventually it should end up looking like this - except it will be ebony and not cocobolo:
