Blackwood and Huon Pine Concert Uke

[Allen]

I built this uke for stock as a bit of an experiment to learn to French Polish. Didn't want to try something new out on a clients instrument. It's not a perfect finish....well, lets say I set a pretty high standard for myself, but it's pretty damn good.

I've sprayed a lot of lacquer and catalysed finishes on timber, and never have I seen anything come to life like this. A bit like how an opal keeps t's vibrancy as it changes in the light when you roll it around.

Anyway, onto the details.

Body - Australian Blackwood
Soundboard - Huon Pine
Bindings - Lace Sheoak
Fret Board and Bridge - Ebony
Rosette - Koa
Strings - Worth Browns
Neck - Brazilian Mahogany

[GregL]

Hi Allen,

Beautiful! Just beautiful!
Could I ask a few questions?
How does the Huon sound? I used it on a uke and at first it sounded like wet cardboard, but when braced and on the uke, it sounds OK to me.
What is the headstock veneer? (Looks like it could be either Blackwood or Koa - they're both Acacias)
What is the timber on the "back" of the bridge (holds the bridge pins)?... and how do you "attach" it?

Thanks,
GregL.

[Allen]

The Headstock Veneers are from the same Blackwood as the sides. The same for the veneer on the bridge. I cut the veneer for the bridge on my laser and it's glued onto the bridge after it's been shaped on the CNC. Then bridge pin holes are machined through both. Little tidy up with some sandpaper and some finish then applied.

The same files are used to create both so the fit is perfect. I did a few just by hand before putting the new equipment in the workshop and it wasn't fun at all.

I love the sound of Huon Pine. It's different that any other timber I've used for a sound board. Rich and complex. Not as bright as spruce though.

[Jeremy D]

That looks really great Allen,

I have been considering trying french polish on the guitar I am currently building. How did you approach it? I was considering trying hard shellac and maybe watching Robbie O'Brien tutorials. I know there is a bit of technique involved but you probably picked it up quickly with your background in finishing. How do you find the feel and look in comparison to lacquer?

Thanks.

[routout]

They do look pretty cool and the huey has a nice amber color ,you might have to do a tutorial on the photographing of Instruments give us all some tips.

[Allen]

That looks really great Allen,

I have been considering trying french polish on the guitar I am currently building. How did you approach it? I was considering trying hard shellac and maybe watching Robbie O'Brien tutorials. I know there is a bit of technique involved but you probably picked it up quickly with your background in finishing. How do you find the feel and look in comparison to lacquer?

Thanks.

It's a full on French Polish. Pumice pore filling and using blonde shellac as a base and then a couple of skinny sessions with some garnet shellac to unify the color and give a very slight warm glow. Followed with more blonde. I bought the shellac from Shellac Shack in the USA.

I built a soprano for a client using the same Huon Pine along with this uke, and I much prefer the color that this one shows. Just that little bit warmer than straight lacquer. And the figure in all the timber looks better than any other instrument I've built. Just no comparison at all.

It feels great, and I've had a few other people around that have said the same.

[Jeremy D]

It's a full on French Polish. Pumice pore filling and using blonde shellac as a base and then a couple of skinny sessions with some garnet shellac to unify the color and give a very slight warm glow. Followed with more blonde. I bought the shellac from Shellac Shack in the USA.

I built a soprano for a client using the same Huon Pine along with this uke, and I much prefer the color that this one shows. Just that little bit warmer than straight lacquer. And the figure in all the timber looks better than any other instrument I've built. Just no comparison at all.

It feels great, and I've had a few other people around that have said the same.

Thanks Allen,

How did you find the process in general, is there a lot more work then lacquer? Any first time tips or pitfalls to avoid?

[Allen]

I found it actually quite easy. Certainly didn't take any longer than a full gloss lacquer finish.

You really need to get the pore filling done before moving on to bodying up if you are going for that look. It's possible to manipulate the shellac some to fill small pores, but best to get most of them before hand.

When using olive oil on the rubber to help lay down the shellac, use it vary sparingly. I used an eye dropper to put a dot on my finger and then blotted 1/2 that away before applying to the rubber each time I recharged with shellac. That's more than enough to do the job.

[Jeremy D]

I found it actually quite easy. Certainly didn't take any longer than a full gloss lacquer finish.

You really need to get the pore filling done before moving on to bodying up if you are going for that look. It's possible to manipulate the shellac some to fill small pores, but best to get most of them before hand.

When using olive oil on the rubber to help lay down the shellac, use it vary sparingly. I used an eye dropper to put a dot on my finger and then blotted 1/2 that away before applying to the rubber each time I recharged with shellac. That's more than enough to do the job.

Thanks Allen