kiwigeo wrote:Questions:
1. Was your french polishing schedule with the hard shellac the same as one would use for normal shellac? Could you indicate drying times between body and spiriting off sessions? Did you stiff off at all?
2. What method did you use to grain fill the hog?
3. What are your thoughts on ease of touch up/repair work on the hardened hard shellac?
Cheers and thanks Martin
Martin ,I've had to really think how to answer your questions.
Drying times etc really depend on your current workshop conditions , so there is never a set time.
Other factors also come into play . I don't use oil where as I bet you do . I've been french polishing long enough to know what may work for me may or may not work for you . French polishing is a craft where experience is your best teacher .Very difficult to describe the whole method in just a few paragraphs .Experience will tell you when the surface is ready to take another session,,,,,or not ! . I find the back of my hand can read a fresh surface fairly reliably by VERY lightly stroking the surface , hardly touching it at all. After a while you'll feel / detect any tackyness or not.
I find applying Hard Shellac is a little different than conventional shellac . In my case I've found I've had to lay off for a few days after giving a few body sessions and let the hard shellac firm up a little . That may also depend on the climatic conditions. High humidity or colder temperatures play a large role in application. Yes I do spirit off after each bodying session.
I can't comment on repairing this new hard shellac formula as yet . Don't really foresee a problem but we will see. I did take a risk using this stuff once again as I was one who got his fingers burnt with the original formula . I've just finished stripping off a 12 stringer that checked and crazed very badly. I'm still mad as hell that that should have happened and no friend at all with the producers of the product. I'm hoping like hell that this new formula will behave like it ought to . Reports by others are encouraging thus far . French polish being the least inhibiting of all the finishes on soundboard movement , I was prepared to give it one more shot. The added bonus of the hardened shellac's properties made it worth it for me . Fingers crossed !
There is another method of applying french polish as outlined in the Gore/ Gilet book . A method developed by Brian Burns where 2 parts of Acetone are added to the shellac base .,, an Azeotropic mix of ethyl alcohol plus Acetone with traces of water which hardens rapidly ,, we are told . Again I can't comment how well this works having not used it as yet.
Sorry Martin ,but that's about as good an answer as I can think of