My new fret slotting saw
Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 3:55 pm
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"Originally Posted on:Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:58 pm
As I read the post by Dazz, “fret saw alternatives” regarding fretting saws last night, I was part of the way through the building of the dedicated fret slotting saw shown here, its now finished.
I had been using my tablesaw to do this task since 2002 and just changed the blade as required and used the jig shown in the photo. However I sold that saw [with a 5/8” arbor] and I replaced it with a new saw but, the new saw has a 30mm arbor. There was talk at that time on the forum about machining larger holes in the saws or changing the arbor from 30mm to 5/8”, both a costly option with this new machine.
So what I did was to build the saw you see here.
I bought a new cut off saw with a 5/8” or 16mm arbor, dismantled it and reassembled it into the cabinet shown.
It’s made out of pine [from shelving I had laying around] and the table top is as you can see from an old Triton jigsaw/router stand.
I had to cut the steel top to allow for the saw blade, but that was all. I bolted the saw assembly to the back of the cabinet upside down, [actually it’s the front of the cabinet due to saw rotation direction] and made and fitted a height adjusting fixture.
The whole thing was then set up, wired to a switch on the front and tested for accuracy.
I then modified the jig that I had been using all those years to have rails that follow the edges of the table, instead of the miter slots of the old table saw. These rails are adjustable so that any movement can be taken out if need be. It works well and cuts perfectly square slots.
It will also be used for cutting the slots in my linings. Cost all up about $85.00.



_________________
Taff
"Originally Posted on:Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:58 pm
As I read the post by Dazz, “fret saw alternatives” regarding fretting saws last night, I was part of the way through the building of the dedicated fret slotting saw shown here, its now finished.
I had been using my tablesaw to do this task since 2002 and just changed the blade as required and used the jig shown in the photo. However I sold that saw [with a 5/8” arbor] and I replaced it with a new saw but, the new saw has a 30mm arbor. There was talk at that time on the forum about machining larger holes in the saws or changing the arbor from 30mm to 5/8”, both a costly option with this new machine.
So what I did was to build the saw you see here.
I bought a new cut off saw with a 5/8” or 16mm arbor, dismantled it and reassembled it into the cabinet shown.
It’s made out of pine [from shelving I had laying around] and the table top is as you can see from an old Triton jigsaw/router stand.
I had to cut the steel top to allow for the saw blade, but that was all. I bolted the saw assembly to the back of the cabinet upside down, [actually it’s the front of the cabinet due to saw rotation direction] and made and fitted a height adjusting fixture.
The whole thing was then set up, wired to a switch on the front and tested for accuracy.
I then modified the jig that I had been using all those years to have rails that follow the edges of the table, instead of the miter slots of the old table saw. These rails are adjustable so that any movement can be taken out if need be. It works well and cuts perfectly square slots.
It will also be used for cutting the slots in my linings. Cost all up about $85.00.
_________________
Taff