hi guys,
I have my third customer finally
But he has some special specifications. One of them being a pinless bridge.
Did one of you use a pinless bridge on a falcate bracing and did you have trouble with reducing the weight? Which design worked for you? I saw the doolin version and the breedlove design. Any recommendations?
pinless bridge question
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- Sassafras
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:14 pm
Re: pinless bridge question
I Have made a bunch of the Doolin type ones. The angles of the pins are crucial to that design. The one I do in my school now mostly are more like the classical style thought the back of the bridge. This works great. Black wood or QLD walnut are good choices here both will end up very light.
- Mark McLean
- Blackwood
- Posts: 1117
- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:03 pm
- Location: Sydney
Re: pinless bridge question
I have done a pinless bridge on a falcate braced top (like ovation or Lowden or Breedlove, not the Doolin). It works fine, and actually avoids one fiddly bit of the falcate method which is arranging the primary braces to run between the bridge pins. A pinless bridge doesn’t need to be any more weighty than a pinned design.
Re: pinless bridge question
Thanks for the answers.
I have to admit I never saw a pinless bridge in real life, only some pictures. I even found one here in the forum: a post from Jim Watts from 2018. Looks actually a bit like the Breedlove bridge. But for example it´s not clear to me how to get the angles for the string channels right if you want to use a design where the strings are kind of hidden under the bridge wood. What are the things you absolutely have to get right to avoid failure?
If someone could provide a few more detail pictures of a working design, that would be great. I would like to stay as close as possible to the shape of Trevor Gore´s bridge design but at the moment I´m a bit clueless.
I have to admit I never saw a pinless bridge in real life, only some pictures. I even found one here in the forum: a post from Jim Watts from 2018. Looks actually a bit like the Breedlove bridge. But for example it´s not clear to me how to get the angles for the string channels right if you want to use a design where the strings are kind of hidden under the bridge wood. What are the things you absolutely have to get right to avoid failure?
If someone could provide a few more detail pictures of a working design, that would be great. I would like to stay as close as possible to the shape of Trevor Gore´s bridge design but at the moment I´m a bit clueless.
- Mark McLean
- Blackwood
- Posts: 1117
- Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:03 pm
- Location: Sydney
Re: pinless bridge question
This one is a Breedlove and is pretty simple. You would want to draw it out at large scale and work out the angles. Do something like a countersink for the ball ends to slip out of sight.
https://acousticguitarconstructionforum ... it=Pinless
And I like the look of this one for the same reasons:
https://www.jimmyegypt.com/blog/making- ... e-in-ebony
Here is another discussion with some method explanation:
https://acousticguitarconstructionforum ... .php?t=523
It is actually more beefy than it needs to be. You can route out a channel across the middle to reduce the weight, and it also looks more elegant IMO.
That one came from this forum discussion which is pretty useful:https://acousticguitarconstructionforum ... it=Pinless
And I like the look of this one for the same reasons:
https://www.jimmyegypt.com/blog/making- ... e-in-ebony
Here is another discussion with some method explanation:
https://acousticguitarconstructionforum ... .php?t=523
- lamanoditrento
- Blackwood
- Posts: 605
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2016 9:50 am
Re: pinless bridge question
I put a pinless bridges on a number of falcate builds including this multi scale.
I didn't have any trouble keeping it under 20g and I even included an extra inlayed wear bone for the ball ends. 17g from memory but then again the "white" blackwood was particularly light. Also remember you should also deduct the pins' weight too if you want to compare apples.
Another design we've been using a bit is a slotted version for even easier string changes. There is also a unseen wear bone inlaid in this one too.
Full pics of the multiscale are at this thread http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=9447
I didn't have any trouble keeping it under 20g and I even included an extra inlayed wear bone for the ball ends. 17g from memory but then again the "white" blackwood was particularly light. Also remember you should also deduct the pins' weight too if you want to compare apples.
Another design we've been using a bit is a slotted version for even easier string changes. There is also a unseen wear bone inlaid in this one too.
Full pics of the multiscale are at this thread http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=9447
Trent
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