Allen wrote:Yes, I read lot's about how it's not worth the bottle it comes in. But I was curious if it was because of the addition of the urea / salt to keep it liquid, or merely the fact that it's been sitting around too long before anyone gets a chance to use it.
For example, if you made up a fresh batch, and added the salt, just to get a long open time, is it going to give similar results? Or do you end up with some glop that doesn't resemble glue?
No idea, but I would be interested to know if you wanted to do the experiment
I have a reasonable idea of how Titebond and hide glue work and how and for what I can use them. There are too many other things to learn about before thinking about modifying glue. Matthew's approach to gluing large surfaces by taking off a few clamps at a time and re-heating that section has been described by other cello/bass builders. The one thing to consider is that the glue join used for attaching bowed family instrument soundboards and backs is under different tensions to a guitar, as well as being carved and subject to different stresses from strings, tailpiece etc. My main concern about this approach in animal glue for gluing a back is that it is not getting the best glue join (clamping, separating. reheating etc) This doesn't matter so much with bowed instruments as there is the expectation of at least the soundboard coming off every decade or two, and they don't want a joint that will be too hard to undo, and the stress is a sideways shear stress rather than the pulling up and away from the sides in a guitar soundboard.
There have been lots of very fine handmade guitars using Titebond, and lots using animal glue. Similarly I have played some real stinkers using both. It don't think it is the glue which is the defining difference.
cheers
graham