Making Binding

[joel]

I've got some Myrtle that's no good for making a guitar (unless it was a very small body). So I thought I'd use it to make bindings, end wedges and rosette rings.

What's the best grain orientation of binding strips? And does anyone have any handy hints or jigs for the process?

[sebastiaan56]

I await replies Joel, Ive wondered the same,

[kiwigeo]

Check here for a detailed discussion on cutting your own binding:

http://www.luthierforum.com/index.php?showtopic=839

Cheers Martin

[joel]

Thanks for the link to that good little tute Martin.

I think that we've had this on the forum before, can we get that black fibre stuff in OZ? And some suitable white fibre or wood type stuff as well. I didn't think of laminating some BWB purfling to the bindings, it's a good idea.

[kiwigeo]

I just use the stock standard WBW purfling from Stewmac and glue it to my IRW binding.

[Allen]

I've been buying colored veneer from Australian Luthier Supplies. I have all the colors that they carry just in case the mood strikes for something different. It's about $6 a sheet the last time I ordered. I double up on the black and white every time I order because it always seems to go the quickest. It's all wood veneer that is dyed. If time is of no concern, then it's a great way to go for making your own binding and purfling, and getting colors and combinations that would be difficult or impossible unless you were willing to go to Gurian with a special order.

With the veneer sheets, a little goes a long way.

I make all my own binding. Just slice up on bandsaw and run through the drum sander. If it's going to get a side purfling, then it's glued up in the desired pattern before it's sliced into strips. Pretty simple and will save you heaps over buying the ready made stuff. When you start making the stuff yourself you'll realize why it costs so much to buy it individually. There's a bit of work to make it, but when your time is cheap like mine is then it's the way to go.