Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
I did one of these a couple of years ago and this client wanted something very similar. Luck I had the sister set of Maple still on the self.
As the title says, it's Ambrosia Maple withe Ancient Spruce. Honduran Rosewood fret board and bridge. Curly Jarrah bindings. All under a high gloss lacquer finish and strung with Worth Browns.
.......Sorry, just noticed I put this in the wrong section. Please move it if you like.
As the title says, it's Ambrosia Maple withe Ancient Spruce. Honduran Rosewood fret board and bridge. Curly Jarrah bindings. All under a high gloss lacquer finish and strung with Worth Browns.
.......Sorry, just noticed I put this in the wrong section. Please move it if you like.
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
I might get around to moving the post to the correct thread...once Ive finished drooling over my keyboard 

Martin
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
Yeah, that's pretty darn nice and I usually tend to disslike ukes!
- slowlearner
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Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
It's been under water for a little while I believe ,it's a good effect 

John ,of way too many things to do.
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
The log that this sitka came from was buried for close to 3,000 years under a landslide. It's the natural color due to mineralization.
The wood has more of a hardwood tonal response. Much like using Blackwood or Mahogany on a uke.
The wood has more of a hardwood tonal response. Much like using Blackwood or Mahogany on a uke.
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
I have been contemplating the use of steel string tuners such as “Grovers” or “Gotoh” in a particular “Classical” design so a visit to the local “Guitar Center” yesterday and asking some questions I was basically told that one would not want to use steel string tuners in combination with nylon strings on a Classical guitar. They said that the steel posts would end up cutting through the strings and they would not really work in the long run and cause them to break.
That said in previewing your uniquelly beautiful Uke the first thing I noticed is that the tuners have steel posts with nylon strings attached which go against everything I was told at “Guitar Center”. Realizing that such tuners are common in most all Uke’s is what brings up the following question.
Can anyone here explain why I should never attempt to use high quality steel string tuners on a “Classical” guitar based upon the advice I was given at the store? Also would the use of such “Locking” type tuners be out of the question too?
Their advice seemed logical in some ways but goes against the standard use of such tuners on almost all Uke’s with nylon strings that I have seen.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated as it could have a dramatic outcome on my “Classical” design.
—Max
That said in previewing your uniquelly beautiful Uke the first thing I noticed is that the tuners have steel posts with nylon strings attached which go against everything I was told at “Guitar Center”. Realizing that such tuners are common in most all Uke’s is what brings up the following question.
Can anyone here explain why I should never attempt to use high quality steel string tuners on a “Classical” guitar based upon the advice I was given at the store? Also would the use of such “Locking” type tuners be out of the question too?
Their advice seemed logical in some ways but goes against the standard use of such tuners on almost all Uke’s with nylon strings that I have seen.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated as it could have a dramatic outcome on my “Classical” design.
—Max
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
The only spot on a tuner post where the string could possibly get "cut through" would be at the anchoring hole through the shaft if there was any burr around the hole. That said I dont see how this can happen once youve got a few wraps of string around the post.Max Taylor wrote:I have been contemplating the use of steel string tuners such as “Grovers” or “Gotoh” in a particular “Classical” design so a visit to the local “Guitar Center” yesterday and asking some questions I was basically told that one would not want to use steel string tuners in combination with nylon strings on a Classical guitar. They said that the steel posts would end up cutting through the strings and they would not really work in the long run and cause them to break.
I sometimes have to trim the ends of the rollers closest to the nut so having a nylon/plastic roller makes this task easier.
Martin
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
I was close Mineral water
I usually run a very small countersink in both sides of the tuning post ,I built a harp a while ago that has all the nylon strings going through harpsichord tuners no breakages 750kg on that sound board
.


John ,of way too many things to do.
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
Obviously Guitar Centre doesn't have a clue. There would be tens of thousands of "Steel String" tuners set up with nylon strings. The one disadvantage to using them is that the gear ration is a bit fine for a nylon string which stretches a lot more than steel, so takes longer to get up to pitch.
There is a common modification to the steel string tuners that slips a plastic tube over the metal shaft. Increasing the diameter of the shaft so that effectively the gear ratio is dropped from a common 14:1 to something much less.
There is a common modification to the steel string tuners that slips a plastic tube over the metal shaft. Increasing the diameter of the shaft so that effectively the gear ratio is dropped from a common 14:1 to something much less.
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
Thank you Martin, John & Allen for chiming in.
I think that with all your information I feel a lot better about the use of steel string tuners with nylon strings and your thoughts are all in alignment with my original thoughts based upon my design. I had no previous knowledge in this regard, hence my original question.
I also know that using steel string tuners is not standard by any stretch of the imagination on a “Classical” guitar but they are the only way I have found to accomplish the end results of my design. I will share this with the Forum once it is finished and the reasoning will become readily apparent to all. As far as I have seen this design has never been used before on a “Classical”.
“Guitar Center” will no longer be subjected to any questions I might have as it is apparent their information or expertise falls short of the mark, at least in this category.
I can see that whatever effort may be taken to polish (soften) the edges of the holes in the tuners to avoid any undo stress that might be caused by ‘kinking’ of the strings at those points. That will be done to insure nothing can cut into the strings.
I also agree that the higher ratios take a little more winding on first stringing but might also allow for finer tuning once the strings have relaxed to their new tension. A simply hand winder will solve that as it only needs to be done once at string up.
Thanks again for the input and any further replies. Most helpful as would be expected. Probably wasn’t the exact thread for the question but the beautiful Uke that started this thread is what inspired the original question.
— Max
I think that with all your information I feel a lot better about the use of steel string tuners with nylon strings and your thoughts are all in alignment with my original thoughts based upon my design. I had no previous knowledge in this regard, hence my original question.
I also know that using steel string tuners is not standard by any stretch of the imagination on a “Classical” guitar but they are the only way I have found to accomplish the end results of my design. I will share this with the Forum once it is finished and the reasoning will become readily apparent to all. As far as I have seen this design has never been used before on a “Classical”.
“Guitar Center” will no longer be subjected to any questions I might have as it is apparent their information or expertise falls short of the mark, at least in this category.
I can see that whatever effort may be taken to polish (soften) the edges of the holes in the tuners to avoid any undo stress that might be caused by ‘kinking’ of the strings at those points. That will be done to insure nothing can cut into the strings.
I also agree that the higher ratios take a little more winding on first stringing but might also allow for finer tuning once the strings have relaxed to their new tension. A simply hand winder will solve that as it only needs to be done once at string up.
Thanks again for the input and any further replies. Most helpful as would be expected. Probably wasn’t the exact thread for the question but the beautiful Uke that started this thread is what inspired the original question.
— Max
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Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
I have seen plastic replacement rollers that attach to machine heads too
http://luthierssupplies.com.au/index.ph ... =24_25_780
http://luthierssupplies.com.au/index.ph ... =24_25_780
Trent
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
Trent,
This for the information. I checked those out but I have to have something that is free standing on the string end and not supported on both ends like typical Classical tuner rollers. I wish they made Classical tuners in the same style as steel string tuners but I guess there has just never been enough call for them.
—Max
This for the information. I checked those out but I have to have something that is free standing on the string end and not supported on both ends like typical Classical tuner rollers. I wish they made Classical tuners in the same style as steel string tuners but I guess there has just never been enough call for them.
—Max
Re: Ambrosia Maple and Ancient Spruce Tenor
You can go down the planetary drive peg style tuners like Trevor Gore uses on some of his neo-classicalsMax Taylor wrote:Trent,
This for the information. I checked those out but I have to have something that is free standing on the string end and not supported on both ends like typical Classical tuner rollers. I wish they made Classical tuners in the same style as steel string tuners but I guess there has just never been enough call for them.
—Max
Martin
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