Elsie-May dread cutaway build

[Trevor Gore]

Yes, unfortunately there was a bit of spillage when I was doing the rosette.

You should look at that very carefully before you put any more work into it. You might be up for a new top.

[demonx]

I think I'd rather stain the entire top than do that rosette inlay again!

I'm optimistic it'll sand out. Fingers are crossed.

When it spilled out I quickly wiped it off with acetone. So that can go two ways, it could be either thin just across the top -or- the acetone could have helped thin it down deep into the grain. I won't know till I get stuck into it.

[Jeremy D]

Mitre on the cutaway look good

[demonx]

You guys, stressing about nothing!

Gave it a quick scrape and then block with 120. It was just across the surface as I had hoped.

Guess I can continue with the binding today.

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[kiwigeo]

You guys, stressing about nothing!

You got lucky Buddy

You can reduce risk of CA ruining a top by wiping a coat of thin shellac ( I use a 1lb cut) on outer and inner walls of the rosette channel and over the top in the vicinity of the rosette. I always have the entire top coated with shellac from time the top is rough cut until its ready for pre-finish sanding.

[demonx]

You guys, stressing about nothing!

You got lucky Buddy

You can reduce risk of CA ruining a top by wiping a coat of thin shellac

I use a quick dry clear (pressure pack) product for other purposes, mostly inlay, in electric building, however I didn't use it in this case, I probably should have.

[Trevor Gore]

Well, I'm certainly hoping you got away with it, but on both my screens, including the colour-calibrated one, I can still see yellow. Check in a couple of different lighting conditions and wetted out with a solvent. These things have a really nasty habit of re-appearing when you start to buff out.

Here's hoping your luck holds!

[Nick]

Well, I'm certainly hoping you got away with it, but on both my screens, including the colour-calibrated one, I can still see yellow. Check in a couple of different lighting conditions and wetted out with a solvent. These things have a really nasty habit of re-appearing when you start to buff out.

Here's hoping your luck holds!

It's amazing how those previously 'invisible' things or things you thought you sanded out many stages back in the process show up once the jam goes on
Hope it goes well for you Allan as it's a nice rosette.

[demonx]

Binding on:

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[simso]

I am sure you are now appreciating the difference between electric builds and acoustic.

Whilst I am a fan of both, to me, there is so much more expression of ones self in an acoustic build

The build looks good so far

Steve

[demonx]

Snakewood board and bridge. Customer request, not mine. I was trying to steer him to Ebony, even yesterday he was here and I was sitting a Ebony board and bridge on it, but he insists he likes the contrast of the Snakewood.

[demonx]

Whilst I am a fan of both, to me, there is so much more expression of ones self in an acoustic build

Steve

All i'd say is they are different, but it's still just building a guitar. It's just a different style of building.

[demonx]

Routing the bridge on the CNC. Three different cutting bits were used.

Ebony binding with a strip of maple:

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[demonx]

Binding rough sanded back:

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[kiwigeo]

Nice work...but how about some pics of the mitres on the corners?

[demonx]

Nice work...but how about some pics of the mitres on the corners?

I didn't mitre them, they're butt jointed.

[demonx]

As I said, it's not mitred.

I can't take a true close up as this is about as close as my phone camera goes without blurring right out, even this is "just" out of focus but you get the idea

[demonx]

Neck slot and tang routed:

[dshaker]

I can't take a true close up as this is about as close as my phone camera goes without blurring right out, even this is "just" out of focus but you get the idea

I sometimes get better photos by standing further back and them using the zoom feature on my phone's camera.

[demonx]

Attachment didn't work last post, so here it is again:

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Laying out the fingerboard and pinning in position prior to glue up:

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Also started on the next one, Oregon Myrtle back & sides. I bent the top side last night, bent like butter. Didn't feel any resistance whatsoever.

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[demonx]

Little bit more progress.

Neck roughed using a flap disk and dragon rasp. Now it just needs to have the profile detailed but I ran out of time.

[demonx]

It's been a while since I updated this thread.

Last week I sprayed sealer (Mirotone) and then realized I'd conveniently sprayed over a fingerprint on the top, so I had to sand back to timber and respray.

Anyway, moving on from the fingerprint incident I resprayed sealer and today I managed a couple coats of Mirotone 2k clear.

[56nortondomy]

Nice Allan, I use a balloon to cover the sound hole, quick and easy.
Wayne

[demonx]

Nice Allan, I use a balloon to cover the sound hole, quick and easy.
Wayne

That is very handy if you're spraying with water based products, I'll be honest and say I'd have never thought of that!

Try spray 2k and see how the balloon fares, I'd hazard a guess and say it'd melt down over the top.

Everything I spray is done in 2k.

[56nortondomy]

You may be right, I use miritone lacquer. Wayne