Martin 0-16NY

[Bob Connor]

These guitars were re-released in the early sixties,were very lightly built and were designed for both nylon and light gauge steel strings.



I was wondering whether anyone had played one of these with the nylon string option as I have a customer who is interested.

Just wanted to get some impressions to see whether it's a viable option.

The customer started talking about a classical guitar but we've decided that he really wants a nylon string guitar to noodle on at home.

I did have the chance to play one of these 0-16's a few years back in srteel string mode and it was a super little guitar but there's probably not a lot of them kicking around Australia.

Bob

[Allen]

Was there a difference in the bracing pattern or dimensions between the two options?

Did you just buy that particular model and put either steel or nylon on it, as per your preference?

It'd be a neat little guitar to do some experimenting on.

[Bob Connor]

It was the same bracing for both Allen.

I have heard that there was a cutaway model and I'd like to track down a pic of that if I can



Bob

[Colin S]

Bob, yes I've played one with nylon strings fitted. It was OK, but didn't have the dynamic range that I would want from a guitar, it was definitely pushing the limits on the amount of energy that the strings could supply to drive the top. Played next to a fan braced classical it definitely lacked something, though for a fireside guitar would be fine.

If you were building it just for nylon strings though, without the option of steels strings, then it would be very doable and make a nice little guitar. For instance don't tuck the back of the X.

I believe that Alan Carruth has built X-braced nylon string guitars so you might want to seek his opinion in 'another place'.

Colin

[Bob Connor]

Thanks Colin. That's confirmed what I expected.

I've just bought some curly Spanish Cedar from Steve Roberson and Bob the Zootman which should suit. An Engelmann top should be OK for this type of guitar as well.

There's no problem mentioning the OLF or MIMF here either. Most of us frequent all of them, so links to interesting articles, tutorials etc are more than welcome.

Bob

[Kim]

Bob,

Just as a point of interest, in the 60's/70's, Maton made a cheap 'student grade' classical sized, Nylon/Steel string models called the F10/F11. The the reason for me separating these models with only a "/" is because the fact is that tuners where the only difference between them.

The F10 was a slot-head with nylon rollers while the F11 had a solid headstock with 3 on a plate open backs like so.







Both these guitars shared an identical bracing pattern consisting of 3 laterals for the back, and for the top, a classical bridge with tie block supported by a somewhat 'rustic' lay out of square sectioned stock.




This all matched the quality of the tastefully decorative rosette transfer and heelless neck with extension mortised direct into the extended neck block quite well.



Anyhow, one of the issues for the F10/F11 was that there was no adjustable truss rod installed. This was OK for the F10 when fitted with nylon, but if you ran anything but light electric strings on the F11 you would wind up with 'good grief' relief The above mentioned heelless neck construction made a reset out of the question.

Anyhow, whilst all this may sound woeful, the fact is that these little plywood Maton's are quite nice to sit back with on the veranda with a few beers on a sunny day but I think Colin summed up my own thoughts on guitars built to handle both Steel and Nylon strings when he wrote,

Bob, yes I've played one with nylon strings fitted. It was OK, but didn't have the dynamic range that I would want from a guitar, it was definitely pushing the limits on the amount of energy that the strings could supply to drive the top. Played next to a fan braced classical it definitely lacked something, though for a fireside guitar would be fine.

My advice for your intended project is to build with one sting type in mind or the other. I would focus on nylon and maybe thinning down the neck a little from classical dimensions more toward, bit not quite as narrow as a 30's OM, and maybe incorporate a couple of CF rods so you can get away with the smaller profile of neck without needing to add any steel.

Cheers

Kim

[kiwigeo]

Good God, look at that bracing!! I reckon you could drive your car over that top and it would survive.

[Bob Connor]

That's exactly what I was considering doing Kim.

CF in the neck instead of a truss rod. (that's the figured Spanish Cedar from Bob the Zootman) and a very lightly built body and top.