Fretboard Slotting?

[Kim Strode]

I am seeking your advice on the best procedure of slotting radius fretboards.

I was working on a small fretboard for a Mandolin over the weekend using a Stewmac Jig and fretting saw. Started by cutting the slots to the correct depth on a blank 5mm thick fretboard - then trimmed the fretboard to finished shape and sanded fretboard to a 12" radius. This is where it got challenging. The fret slots were no longer deep enough at the sides.

I tried to double tape the fretboard back into the Stewmac Jig to deepen the slots, but that got very messy. Ended up using the Fretting saw freehand to deepen the fret slots on each side of the fretboard, but that resulted in slightly oversized slots. I'm hoping glue will save me when I press in the frets!

Was a better option to cut the fret slots far deeper on the first pass, even though the slots would be deeper than required at the centre of the fretboard?
All advice greatly accepted?

[DarwinStrings]

G'day Kim, I cut the slots first with template and mitre box. I cut them just deep enough so that after putting the radius on the fret board the slots just still show on the board edge, I use the Stewy mac back saw that is a pull cut and you can buy a depth gauge with them. Once I have the radius done I then bolt the depth gauge on the saw and set it to just deeper than the fret tang and freehand the slots back to depth, the depth gauge follows the curve so I end up with the bottom of the slots being curved

Jim.

Edit. One thing I have found with that Stewy Mac saw is that it tends to dull pretty fast so i probably file the blade ever few fret boards.

[kiwigeo]

I cut slots with the jig and fretsaw. I then radius and deepen the cuts if necessary with a few passes with the saw. I have a piece of fretwire with tang barbs filed off which I use as a slot guage.

[Nick]

I'll sand my board to it's final thickness (still no radius at this stage) and cut my slots to 3mm depth. Once I've radiused the front I'll just quickly slide an un-radiused fret along the edge of the board (shoulder of the fret sitting on front face) and check all the slot's depth at the edges, any that need tweaking I just quickly pull the saw through the slot a few times (don't push, this is where you risk 'wobbling' the saw and ending up with an oversized slot).
Having said that, I cut mine on a table saw now so the slots are all at a consistent depth and for a 12" radiused board the 3mm depth I cut to, I've never had to tweak the depth post radiusing.

[demonx]

I use the stewmac circular saw blade which I have mounted on a radial arm saw.

I have the stew mac mitre box partially disassembled and mounted underneath so I can use the slotting templates.

To answer your question, with practice you'll be able to know how deep to "over" slot, so that after the board is radiused you'll still have ample depth for the tang.

I thickness the board, slot then mount on the neck, then radius and fret in that order.

[simso]

I use to be really concerned about this many years ago, so I built a carriage that also pivoted on an arc, that way the fretslot was actually cut on a radius, it worked well but very time consuming, after many boards cut I reverted back to straight cuts and saw no perceivable difference in the end result, so we straight cut now and overcut to start with

[Kim Strode]

Thank's for your responses. It's now clear that I cut the initial fret slots too shallow, so I will cut them to 3mm deep next time, as suggested.

I also like Martin's idea of using a piece of fret wire (tangs filed off) to test the depth of the slots. I tried this today and it really helped ensure the slots were cut to the correct depth.

[kiwigeo]

Thank's for your responses. It's now clear that I cut the initial fret slots too shallow, so I will cut them to 3mm deep next time, as suggested.

I also like Martin's idea of using a piece of fret wire (tangs filed off) to test the depth of the slots. I tried this today and it really helped ensure the slots were cut to the correct depth.

The dummy slot gauge is also handy for cleaning out any cr*p from the slot after youve sanded in the radius

[demonx]

The dummy slot gauge is also handy for cleaning out any cr*p from the slot after youve sanded in the radius

I usually just use a razor blade, but I recently bought the stewmac Japanese fret slot cleaning saw and it seems great. I'm yet to use it on a freshly bound board, but I've done two regrets with it so far and it works very well

[lauburu]

I've done two regrets with it so far and it works very well

Two refrets and no regrets........... or a Freudian slip?
Miguel

[Nick]

*Cue Frank Sinatra*
"Regrets.......I've done a few,
but then again, all hassle free without exception,
I did what I usually do,
and sawed to 3 mill without exemption

I planned each cut of course,
Each narrow slot, shouldn't take all day
but more, much more than this
I fretted my way"

With apologies to Allan

[demonx]

I've done two regrets with it so far and it works very well

Two refrets and no regrets........... or a Freudian slip?
Miguel

This is what happens when I post using my iPhone and don't proof read.

Re frets. Re frets. Re frets. No regrets!

[kiwigeo]

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