Is this Queensland Maple Useful for Guitar Making?
- ozziebluesman
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Is this Queensland Maple Useful for Guitar Making?
I have aquired a piece of naturally dried Queensland Maple.
I would like to ask the forum members if they could give me some advice to weather the piece could be useful for guitar building. It is crack free, 600mm long, 55mm thick. I have marked out 200mm on the end. My idea is i may be able to get two neck blanks from the slab.
Any advice how to resaw it, or suggestions for other uses with guitar building in mind will be great thanks.
If majority think it is a waiste of time i will donate the piece to the local woodturners club.
Cheers
Alan
I would like to ask the forum members if they could give me some advice to weather the piece could be useful for guitar building. It is crack free, 600mm long, 55mm thick. I have marked out 200mm on the end. My idea is i may be able to get two neck blanks from the slab.
Any advice how to resaw it, or suggestions for other uses with guitar building in mind will be great thanks.
If majority think it is a waiste of time i will donate the piece to the local woodturners club.
Cheers
Alan
- TimS
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Qld Maple
I have aquired a piece of naturally dried Queensland Maple.
I would like to ask the forum members if they could give me some advice to weather the piece could be useful for guitar building. It is crack free, 600mm long, 55mm thick. I have marked out 200mm on the end. My idea is i may be able to get two neck blanks from the slab.
Good question Alan!
I recently ordered and recieved half a cubic metre of Qld maple which was cut in slab form to enable me to resaw for guitar necks. Some of the outer slabs were very similar to what you have posted. So my advice would be to resaw the pieces into four and swap two of the pieces end for end and then add a lamination. This is probably a better option than trying to follow the quarter face too closely and wasting a lot of wood.
Please note that the drawing below is for two necks
I would like to ask the forum members if they could give me some advice to weather the piece could be useful for guitar building. It is crack free, 600mm long, 55mm thick. I have marked out 200mm on the end. My idea is i may be able to get two neck blanks from the slab.
Good question Alan!
I recently ordered and recieved half a cubic metre of Qld maple which was cut in slab form to enable me to resaw for guitar necks. Some of the outer slabs were very similar to what you have posted. So my advice would be to resaw the pieces into four and swap two of the pieces end for end and then add a lamination. This is probably a better option than trying to follow the quarter face too closely and wasting a lot of wood.
Please note that the drawing below is for two necks
Last edited by TimS on Fri May 09, 2008 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[url]http://www.australiantonewoods.com[/url]
- ozziebluesman
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- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:12 am
- Location: Townsville
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- ozziebluesman
- Blackwood
- Posts: 1529
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:12 am
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Well I the re-sawed the Queensland Maple as per Tim's adivce. Many thanks Tim.
I think this wood will make good necks. The smaller blanks are for two concert uke spanish heel necks and the others for two 000's built to the stew mac plan. I have some Sapelly Mahogany to laminate between the two halves.
Thanks everyone for your interest.
Cheers
Alan
I think this wood will make good necks. The smaller blanks are for two concert uke spanish heel necks and the others for two 000's built to the stew mac plan. I have some Sapelly Mahogany to laminate between the two halves.
Thanks everyone for your interest.
Cheers
Alan
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- Sassafras
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Those look great and I do like Queensland Maple a lot.
If I might make a suggestion to re-orient the lams in the two taller blanks by switching the two pieces around. As they are, if any movement occurs while acclimating they will cup towards the bark side of the log. As they are they'll pull or cup away from each other if that happens. Oriented the other way they push against each other. I don't think it matters either way for the other two smaller sets.
If I might make a suggestion to re-orient the lams in the two taller blanks by switching the two pieces around. As they are, if any movement occurs while acclimating they will cup towards the bark side of the log. As they are they'll pull or cup away from each other if that happens. Oriented the other way they push against each other. I don't think it matters either way for the other two smaller sets.
Still searching for the mother of all figures.
- ozziebluesman
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