when did western red cedar start to be imported?
- matthew
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when did western red cedar start to be imported?
Rummaging around in an old friend's old garage, I came across a plank of what looks like some sort of cedar. The plank is a good 16 wide or more and about 5 foot long and 1" thick. It's old and dark, black soot and dusty, but light as can be. It must have been there for a good 40 years. I haven't had a change to plane off the edge yet, but I'm wondering whether WRC was imported back then, or if this was more recent? In which case, the plank could be something else. Rare to find a plank this wide!
MT
MT
AFAIK, WRC has been imported since the early 1900's along with californian redwood and Douglas fir (oregon)
Our lack of easy working and durable softwoods after the decimation of the Australian cedar forests led to this importation.
So a good chance it is WRC
A lot of WRC was used back in the 60's and 70's for decking around above ground pools too.
A good find.
Jeff
Our lack of easy working and durable softwoods after the decimation of the Australian cedar forests led to this importation.
So a good chance it is WRC
A lot of WRC was used back in the 60's and 70's for decking around above ground pools too.
A good find.
Jeff
- graham mcdonald
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Most likely to be redwood. That was very common in the early years of last century and often used for making doors and other sorts of architechtural moldings, and often asthe borrom of drawers in cupboards and the like. It often can in big sizes like that. I don't think WRC was used much until well after WW11, not until into the 60s I suspect
cheers
graham
cheers
graham
Graham McDonald
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com
Colour is darker than WRC and it is a little softer, tends to have very tight rings.
I supervised a job in the late 70's (Natural draft cooling tower at Wallerawang Power Station) where we imported large quantities to use as walkways due to it's superior durability in constant hot and wet conditions.
Lovely stuff, If you have ever driven through a redwood forest in california the smell is intoxicating
Jeff
I supervised a job in the late 70's (Natural draft cooling tower at Wallerawang Power Station) where we imported large quantities to use as walkways due to it's superior durability in constant hot and wet conditions.
Lovely stuff, If you have ever driven through a redwood forest in california the smell is intoxicating
Jeff
Last edited by jeffhigh on Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- graham mcdonald
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Western Red cedar will come in colors from very light tan to a very deep chocolate brown, and everything in between, so you cant tell by the color. Grain spacing is no clue either as I've seen it from very coarse to so fine its hard to count the rings.
There is nothing that smells like it though, so that will be your best bet. The Sequoia that I built a top out of looks a lot like WRC, but didn't smell anything like it.
There is nothing that smells like it though, so that will be your best bet. The Sequoia that I built a top out of looks a lot like WRC, but didn't smell anything like it.
- graham mcdonald
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- matthew
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Ed is a nice old guy I know, unfortunately he's got to the stage where he's been taken off to an old folks' home and his WS is being thrown in the skip tomorrow. Luckily I was able to get in there and rescue some tools and stuff, (nothing really stunning; he was a metalworker and all the machinery was in 100 bits)
Oh and some wood.
Here are a few of the spoils:
First two are the suspected redwood. Soft as. No smell. Too dark for cedar i think. grain is at 45 degrees.


Next - dunno yet. But it's killer. Two of these, about 18" across and 30" long and 1/2 thick.

Some nice 1" thick quartered SO

This next i reckon is blackwood; only 4" wide though ... enough for a stunning tailpiece or two.

and some spare glue
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Oh and some wood.
Here are a few of the spoils:
First two are the suspected redwood. Soft as. No smell. Too dark for cedar i think. grain is at 45 degrees.


Next - dunno yet. But it's killer. Two of these, about 18" across and 30" long and 1/2 thick.

Some nice 1" thick quartered SO

This next i reckon is blackwood; only 4" wide though ... enough for a stunning tailpiece or two.

and some spare glue

- graham mcdonald
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Bit hard to tell from the pic, but the first one could be Kauri rather than Redwood. Redwood does tend to have distinctive dark winter growth lines in it.
The second might be Kwila, which is related (I think) to Australian red cedar, but I had a plank a couple of years ago with a similar flame to that. Smells a bit like a combination of AustRC and Mortein.
Even if you can't use them for instrument, it is always good to have a few planks of good, old timber about the house. There will always be a useful project to use them on one day
Here is the back of a Kwila guitar bodied bouzouki I made
cheers
graham

The second might be Kwila, which is related (I think) to Australian red cedar, but I had a plank a couple of years ago with a similar flame to that. Smells a bit like a combination of AustRC and Mortein.
Even if you can't use them for instrument, it is always good to have a few planks of good, old timber about the house. There will always be a useful project to use them on one day

Here is the back of a Kwila guitar bodied bouzouki I made
cheers
graham

Graham McDonald
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com
- graham mcdonald
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They're not screw holes. Access holes for machine bolts that hold the neck on in a hollow neck block. The neck is made like a strat, with no heel, with threaded inserts which take the machine bolts. A long allen key tightens up the bolts through the holes, which are lined with short lengths of carbonfiber arrow shafts, which are just there to give neat finish to the holes.
cheers
graham
cheers
graham
Graham McDonald
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com
http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com
I've seen brown beech that dark, burning splinter test would give a filament of black ash.
Be nice to know that the second one is, is it hard or soft? I was checking out some cello sets at Orcas Island Tonewoods a while back and noticed they had some great looking redwood on their specials page, looks much that same as the stuff you have.

Be nice to know that the second one is, is it hard or soft? I was checking out some cello sets at Orcas Island Tonewoods a while back and noticed they had some great looking redwood on their specials page, looks much that same as the stuff you have.

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- matthew
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number one is just like dark wrc but no smell whatsoever. So I'm thinking redwood, yeah ... or old wrc with no smell!.
yep number three is silky oak alright.
Number two is the mystery. I'm thinking it might even be a niece piece of tas oak, or other eucalypt? It's medium-hard, not really like any maple i've seen, and a yellowish colour - too yellow for tas oak really.
Anyone want any old glue? Nothing wrong with it. I now have a surplus!
yep number three is silky oak alright.
Number two is the mystery. I'm thinking it might even be a niece piece of tas oak, or other eucalypt? It's medium-hard, not really like any maple i've seen, and a yellowish colour - too yellow for tas oak really.
Anyone want any old glue? Nothing wrong with it. I now have a surplus!
- sebastiaan56
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Mathew,
Having rummaged around that factory in Botany in the past Im going to suggest that it is probably basic ordinary gelatine. There was only one process. Probably the only difference is the lack of a steralising process which would make it inedible. I may be wrong, but you may have original Aeroplane Jelly! From the look of the print its probably late 50's.
Edit Great score BTW!
Having rummaged around that factory in Botany in the past Im going to suggest that it is probably basic ordinary gelatine. There was only one process. Probably the only difference is the lack of a steralising process which would make it inedible. I may be wrong, but you may have original Aeroplane Jelly! From the look of the print its probably late 50's.
Edit Great score BTW!
make mine fifths........
- matthew
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Gelatine? That's all hide glue is, boyo. basic ordinary gelatine. Nothing added, nothing taken away. Proven to last hundreds of years with no creep 
OK here are some more pics of the mystery wood #2


Any more clues?
And here is another bit of wood to ID. This is a piano stool from the same workshop, needs the seat fixing where the hinge has ripped out of the side.
First pic shows the flame:

second pic shows the grain where I have cut away the damage. Cuts beautifully. Could it be brazilian/spanish cedar?

Lastly here is a tabletop. No knots, just a lovely wide piece of fairly dense pine. I'm thinking perhaps Kauri pine?



OK here are some more pics of the mystery wood #2


Any more clues?
And here is another bit of wood to ID. This is a piano stool from the same workshop, needs the seat fixing where the hinge has ripped out of the side.
First pic shows the flame:

second pic shows the grain where I have cut away the damage. Cuts beautifully. Could it be brazilian/spanish cedar?

Lastly here is a tabletop. No knots, just a lovely wide piece of fairly dense pine. I'm thinking perhaps Kauri pine?


Yep that looks like Kauri Pine alright, I have a mess table made of the stuff stamped "Townsville", It looks a dead ringer, I would imagine the table came from the army barracks from WW2.
The mystery wood looks a lot like Curly Mahogany to me, particularly the grain in the bare section where the hinges have been removed. If it is, you can clearly understand why the early WA settlers called Jarrah 'Swan River Mahogany' , Jarrah is much heavier than Mahogany, but the curly stuff under a finish looks very similar to what you have there Matthew.
Cheers
Kim
The mystery wood looks a lot like Curly Mahogany to me, particularly the grain in the bare section where the hinges have been removed. If it is, you can clearly understand why the early WA settlers called Jarrah 'Swan River Mahogany' , Jarrah is much heavier than Mahogany, but the curly stuff under a finish looks very similar to what you have there Matthew.
Cheers
Kim
in the first photo it looks a lot like teak (Tectona grandis) but I have to agree with Kim and lean towards Mahogany when I look at the bit you have cut. Teak is a lot more brittle than mahogany so if you can put a 2mm nail through a small 15mm offcut without it splitting then it isn't likely to be teak.
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