bracing

[EricDownunder]

Who is a good supplier for spruce bracing?

[steve roberts]

Hi Eric
I buy all my spruce bracing from GuitarWoods at Botany (Gillet Guitars)
Regards Steve

[Bob Connor]

Overseas

RCTonewoods
Colonial Tonewoods
Alaska Specialty Woods
Kootenay Tonewoods
High Mountain Tonewoods

Locally

Australian Acoustic Tonewoods

Just have a look in our preferred suppliers section.

Regards

[Taffy Evans]

I got $400.00 worth some years ago from Gillet Guitar Woods.

[EricDownunder]

Thanks guys I will contact and compare the suppliers in the forum, I also found some on ebay do you think there worth the risk. I was going to use some European spruce from pallets that came from Germany is it worth the risk for my first guitar, I have been at a bit of a standstill over this.

[Taffy Evans]

I'm pretty fussy about brace wood so I like to know how many grain lines? and is it on the 1/4? I don't know if pallet wood would be close grain, 1/4 sawn or not. That's just my view.

[EricDownunder]

I spent some time this afternoon having a close look at the euro spruce, I cut a piece out of one of the many pieces ea 100x100x1.200 quartersawn with 3/32 between the winter grain I cut the grain horizontal to the back or top I have some ceder with closer grain about 1/16 but the grain would run vertical to the back or top. Which way should the grain run? sorry for being ignorant on the subject>

[rocket]

Eric, the pallet wood stuff doesn't sound very good, 3/32 between the annular lines is too much imho, i'd go for something with a much tighter grain if possible, and although it is your first guitar it will most likely turn out very nice so it would be a shame to take a chance on inferior bracing timber, also the grain lines in your braces should be perpendicular or 90 degrees to the plates.
Cheers,,
Rod.

[charangohabsburg]

I was going to use some European spruce from pallets that came from Germany is it worth the risk for my first guitar, I have been at a bit of a standstill over this.

I think that there is no guarantee that a German pallet would be made of spruce, it can be fir or just any other wood of similar density from pretty much any place of the world. But of course, it can be spruce.

I spent some time this afternoon having a close look at the euro spruce, I cut a piece out of one of the many pieces ea 100x100x1.200 quartersawn with 3/32 between the winter grain I cut the grain horizontal to the back or top I have some ceder with closer grain about 1/16 but the grain would run vertical to the back or top. Which way should the grain run? sorry for being ignorant on the subject

Grain direction doesn't matter a lot. Vertical grain (perpendicular to the top) will be easier to carve than parallel grain, while parallel grain will be slightly stiffer (really not much at all, generally somewhere between 2% and 10%, a slightly narrower and higher brace will compensate that easily).

Lack of runout in a brace is the most important factor, so you really should split your bracing stock prior to slicing it up with a saw.

Regarding grain spacing, wood species and stiffness/weight ratio it might be a good idea to simply compare (measure) to some known quality wood like for example a trip of top wood. Grainspacing by itself doesn't mean much.

[EricDownunder]

Tried Alaskan Tonewoods shipping charges were just to high, as much as the goods $225 in goods and $203 shipping

[liam_fnq]

I usually expect timber from the US to cost as much in shipping as the timber is worth, unless it fits in a flat rate box............

[kiwigeo]

A majority of my bracing wood has come from Tim....his pricing has always worked out cheaper than sourcing from the US/canada mainly due to the excessive freight costs from those countries.

[Bob Connor]

I got a box of bracewood from Alaskan Specialty woods recently and the postage was as much as the wood - but it was still cheaper than anywhere else I can get it. And really nice, stiff wood.

Regards

[Bruce McC]

Hi Eric

+1 for Tim Spittle at Australian Tonewoods
or
Daryl Wheeler at Wheeler Custom Lutherie formerly Guitar Woods ( Gerard Gilet ) Botany NSW.
Your only making a guitar Eric

[nnickusa]

Keep in mind that that $400 bill from Alaska Specialty Woods will get you enough bracing for 20-30 guitars, I'd say....We did a group buy and I've done 3 with my 1/4 and have enough for 6-8 more. Considering that a super foot is $28 or so bucks, that's pretty comparable...

Good stuff, too......

[lauburu]

+1 for Alaskan Specialty woods
Postage costs to NZ astronomical too so best to save up and buy a lifetime's supply
Miguel

[EricDownunder]

I don't mind buying a bulk lot if you guys want to share the load!

[ozziebluesman]

Yep I will share with you!

Cheers

Alan

[EricDownunder]

I will do some numbers!

[ozziebluesman]

Eric, see if there are two other members out here who would be interested in a quarter share that's if you only need a quarter share!

I'm only interested in the good stuff from our forum preferred vendor Alaskan Specialty Tonewoods.

Cheers

Alan

[Bob Connor]

I'll be the two other people.

Regards

[EricDownunder]

The good stuff appears to be in random blocks & split $160 half of a box that's what I am looking at but then I am really only taking a punt, if you think it's the god stuff then that's what I want.

[ozziebluesman]

Eric I haven't bought brace wood from Alaska Specialty Woods before so I will be guided by Bob Connor here! I'm in for a 1/4 share for sure.

Cheers

Alan

[Tom West]

I don't think grain count matters as much as stiffness. For bracing stock I make it to a standard size,.625" by .280". Then put it in a jig with fixed points 18" apart. I then hang a pipe wrench in the center and measure the deflection in the same place. I then write the deflection on a pair and put these aside for X braces and tone bars. Any I don't want are put aside for finger braces. Don't know how much the wrench weighs and really don't care. Just looking for comparison one set of braces to another. I use Red Spruce, Sitka spruce, and a bit of European Spruce. Most of the time the deflections are relatively close. A few are off a fair amount...................these get discarded.
Tom

[EricDownunder]

That's neat! In all the books , video's etc I have there has been nothing said about checking how stiff a piece of bracing is, my first acoustic guitar might take a bit longer but it's fun.