Bridge removal question

[56nortondomy]

I think i have one of those guitars that dosen't want to be built. I've had to replace the top after i dropped a jug on it, then i had to take the neck off it and make a new one after it was glued on because it was made for the old top and didn't fit the new one properly ( i shouldn,t have used it ) now i have to take the bridge off because it moved when i glued it on and didn't notice it. Anyway live and learn. My question is what's the best way to get it off with minimal damage? I know i'll have to heat it up, what's the best way to do that? Any advice welcome. Thanks Wayne

[Allen]

It depends on the equipment you have on hand, but I really doubt you have more than either a hair drier or heat gun.

So, one method is that you make up a cardboard mask that has the bridge shape cut out. Cover this mask with some al-foil and then use this to protect the top while you apply heat to the bridge itself. Go easy as it takes a little bit for the heat to penetrate through the top to the bottom of the bridge.

Once nice and toasty you will need to gently work a pallet knife that you have been heating up into the joint. I have mine in the water bath of my HHG pot. Again, go easy.

If this seems too much trouble, then plane down the bridge until it's just a sliver. Heat that up and get it off. Then make a new bridge.

[Richard]

I use a regular clothes iron, but otherwise as Allen suggested with the cardboard mask to protect the soundboard. Just place the iron on the bridge (possibly plane the bridge flat or make a flat surface with alfoil to maximise contact with the iron, or just rock the iron back and forth along the radius) and keep checking on it until your knife slides effortlessly under the bridge. Don't force it because this will invariably result in a damaged guitar and/or torso.

With the knife I find the thinner the better. I use the knives that Stewmac sell for this job but I'm guessing that simialr things at Bunnings/art supply stores/etc. that'll do the job.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... Knife.html
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... Knife.html

I like to stick my hand through to feel the soundboard and bridge plate throughout to make sure that the actual body (and as such bracing glue) isn't getting too warm.

Expect the bridge to get a bit cooked around the edges... sometimes they can be sanded back to good but I generally bank on a new bridge being needed.

[56nortondomy]

Thanks Allen and Richard, i have a heat gun so i'll try that and go real easy. I've got a feeling if i use the iron i'll be in more shit than a Werribee duck. Wayne

[Allen]

My recommendation is to just pare the old bridge down and make a new one. It's only a bit of wood that you made up the first time around. But, hey, you might like the experience.

For my money, the chance of you damaging the finish, and then needing to do a repair, so far outweighs the trouble of making a new bridge that it's a no brainer as far as I'm concerned.

The only time I ever try and save the old one is on a repair to a customers instrument.

[56nortondomy]

Sounds like good advice Allen, it's a Padauk bridge and i have plenty here. When i removed the neck i damaged the finish and had to repair it, don't want that to happen again. Wayne