Staining Op Grade EIR

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joel
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Staining Op Grade EIR

Post by joel » Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:05 pm

I did a quick test staining of a bit of the Op grade EIR from LMI that arrived during the week (Thanks Dominic!).

I used the Wattyl Rosewood stain, which is quite dark to begin with. I also applied it pretty thick, but wiped off the excess after only a few seconds. Use gloves!

Here's a before and after shot.
Image

The ends look a bit darker than they really are. The colour is a bit more uniform across the piece. In the sunlight, it has a really dark red kind of look.

Here's the other side of the stained piece. The colour is a bit more even than my first try.
Image

I quite like it nice and dark. But I may try thinning the stain a little in the future (with Metho?).
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Craig
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Post by Craig » Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:15 pm

G'day Joel ,

Yes I think it is Metho. Doesn't work if your french polishing. It runs in to the shellac.



Cheers Craig

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joel
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Post by joel » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:00 pm

You mean you can't FP over the stain? Didn't know that. I thought once the stain had dried properly, you could finish it any way you wanted to.
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Craig
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Post by Craig » Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:30 pm

Give it a shot on scrap Joel. I'm pretty sure that's the same stuff I tried once . I noticed the colour going on the french polish wad. Water based stains work better with shellac

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Post by Hesh1956 » Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:18 pm

Oh the horror........... :D

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kiwigeo
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Post by kiwigeo » Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:29 am

Joel the opp grade wood came from Allied Luthierie not LMI. Check out here for hints on dolling up your wood:

http://www.alliedlutherie.com/makeover.htm

Cheers Martin

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kiwigeo
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Post by kiwigeo » Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:36 am

Craig L wrote:Give it a shot on scrap Joel. I'm pretty sure that's the same stuff I tried once . I noticed the colour going on the french polish wad. Water based stains work better with shellac
Pulling colour out of IRW can be a problem during French Polishing. Its one reason to pore fill using epoxy. You need to be careful working near light coloured bindings as well.

Cheers martin

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Allen
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Post by Allen » Mon Apr 14, 2008 5:54 am

Even without staining, I've notice color getting "pulled" out of rosewood anytime I've given it a rub with a solvent. For instance with a bit of acetone before gluing. My first guitar had spruce braces in the back, and when I tried to give the interior a wash coat of shellac to the inside, color from the rose wood bleed everywhere. Won't do that again.
Last edited by Allen on Tue Apr 15, 2008 5:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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joel
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Post by joel » Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:07 pm

Sorry! Allied Lutherie, not LMI! Whoops!

As for the colour bleed out, I'll have to experiment with the shellac with and without the stained EIR. I guess it'd be the alcohol that's pulling out the colour.

Either way, I'm liking the stained EIR. A day on and the colour looks less 'forced' and a bit more natural.
- If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. - David Daye.

- The mouth of a happy man is filled with beer. -

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James Mc
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Post by James Mc » Tue Apr 15, 2008 11:13 am

I used Van Dyke Crystals on a new victorian look standing clock made from wide grained ERW (poo wood) then french polished it. It came up great, darkened up the timber and toned down the red/purple without making it look stained, very natural. Would be worth giving it a go if you want a natural look water based stain.

You can FP over Wattyl stain but you need to let it dry really well first and you will always get a bit of bleed from it the same as you do with the natural colour from a lot of the darker red toned timbers.

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Post by kiwigeo » Tue Apr 15, 2008 12:03 pm

To reduce risk of bleeding the IRW stain onto lighter coloured bindings I give the bindings a light seal coat of shellac before pore filling with pumice and I make sure when Im sanding I sand from lighter coloured wood out to the darker coloured rosewood and finish off with a cabinet scraper.

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