Staining Op Grade EIR
Staining Op Grade EIR
I did a quick test staining of a bit of the Op grade EIR from LMI that arrived during the week (Thanks Dominic!).
I used the Wattyl Rosewood stain, which is quite dark to begin with. I also applied it pretty thick, but wiped off the excess after only a few seconds. Use gloves!
Here's a before and after shot.
The ends look a bit darker than they really are. The colour is a bit more uniform across the piece. In the sunlight, it has a really dark red kind of look.
Here's the other side of the stained piece. The colour is a bit more even than my first try.
I quite like it nice and dark. But I may try thinning the stain a little in the future (with Metho?).
I used the Wattyl Rosewood stain, which is quite dark to begin with. I also applied it pretty thick, but wiped off the excess after only a few seconds. Use gloves!
Here's a before and after shot.
The ends look a bit darker than they really are. The colour is a bit more uniform across the piece. In the sunlight, it has a really dark red kind of look.
Here's the other side of the stained piece. The colour is a bit more even than my first try.
I quite like it nice and dark. But I may try thinning the stain a little in the future (with Metho?).
- If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. - David Daye.
- The mouth of a happy man is filled with beer. -
- The mouth of a happy man is filled with beer. -
Joel the opp grade wood came from Allied Luthierie not LMI. Check out here for hints on dolling up your wood:
http://www.alliedlutherie.com/makeover.htm
Cheers Martin
http://www.alliedlutherie.com/makeover.htm
Cheers Martin
Pulling colour out of IRW can be a problem during French Polishing. Its one reason to pore fill using epoxy. You need to be careful working near light coloured bindings as well.Craig L wrote:Give it a shot on scrap Joel. I'm pretty sure that's the same stuff I tried once . I noticed the colour going on the french polish wad. Water based stains work better with shellac
Cheers martin
Even without staining, I've notice color getting "pulled" out of rosewood anytime I've given it a rub with a solvent. For instance with a bit of acetone before gluing. My first guitar had spruce braces in the back, and when I tried to give the interior a wash coat of shellac to the inside, color from the rose wood bleed everywhere. Won't do that again.
Last edited by Allen on Tue Apr 15, 2008 5:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sorry! Allied Lutherie, not LMI! Whoops!
As for the colour bleed out, I'll have to experiment with the shellac with and without the stained EIR. I guess it'd be the alcohol that's pulling out the colour.
Either way, I'm liking the stained EIR. A day on and the colour looks less 'forced' and a bit more natural.
As for the colour bleed out, I'll have to experiment with the shellac with and without the stained EIR. I guess it'd be the alcohol that's pulling out the colour.
Either way, I'm liking the stained EIR. A day on and the colour looks less 'forced' and a bit more natural.
- If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs. - David Daye.
- The mouth of a happy man is filled with beer. -
- The mouth of a happy man is filled with beer. -
I used Van Dyke Crystals on a new victorian look standing clock made from wide grained ERW (poo wood) then french polished it. It came up great, darkened up the timber and toned down the red/purple without making it look stained, very natural. Would be worth giving it a go if you want a natural look water based stain.
You can FP over Wattyl stain but you need to let it dry really well first and you will always get a bit of bleed from it the same as you do with the natural colour from a lot of the darker red toned timbers.
You can FP over Wattyl stain but you need to let it dry really well first and you will always get a bit of bleed from it the same as you do with the natural colour from a lot of the darker red toned timbers.
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