Why get a 1/2" router?

[gratay]

Heres why.

I'm just jigging up to cut the mortise and tenon on my body and neck....which will be around 20-22mm depth on the body..
add to that the depth of the top of my jig is 18mm ply before the cutter gets to the top of the body...
that adds up to 40-45mm cutter length router bit I will need for a 1/4" router which is a needle in a haystack.
I could alter the top of my jig with maybe a thinner material but even then with the router fully plunged I think I'd be hard pressed to get the required depth..

the only way i can see my way out of this is buy a 1/2" router?
how do you guys do this process?
cheers Grant.

[Kim]

I used a 1/4" Makita trimmer and 1/2" ply for the jig only taking a small bites at a time. The neck block is held into the jig by a big kick ass toggle clamp in the centre and a quick release clamp each side so it wont be going anywhere. Knowing things are held so securely allows you take as many passes as you want confident that the block will not move in the jig and cause a problem.

I have a 1/2" machine as well but I leave that fixed in the table.

Cheers

Kim

[Allen]

I've got the Dremel, 1/4" laminate trimmer and a 1/2" router. Each has it's place, and where there is a will there's a way.

I used the 1/2" router for the body mortise, then made a table for it to hang in and it became more of a problem than it was worth to keep swapping it out, so I ended up modifying my clamping system and used the 1/4" laminate trimmer.

Then I tried a butt joint, and did away with the mortise/tenon on 3 guitars. It works great, but now that I'm looking at an adjustable neck, I've gone back to a mortise/tenon, but it is being built before the neck block is being glued into the rims. All done on the table saw, so no router needed. The jury is out on whether this is going to be a good way to go or not. The only way to know is try.

[Bob Connor]

Same here. Makita 1/4 inch mini trimmer with a top bearing flush trim bit.

Bob

[Dominic]

I had this hassle with an old 1/4 Makita. I would have to pull the bit out further in the collet to get the reach. Very dodgy. It seems the only router worth using is the Triton as the collet comes out further than the base plate. Good for jigs and your table as well.

If getting a new router is a problem, you could make your templates out of thinner material. Then you can use a shorter bit which you may find easier to get.

I hate going backwards, like re-making a jig, if I hit problems but often it is easier in the long-run.
Dom

[gratay]

thanks guys, sounds like it can be done..
like Kim says...the solution in my head is to at least make the top of my jig thinner than 18mm....maybe half?

I've got a bosch router and it doesn't seem to have much reach..even fully plunged with a 25.4mm bit there is only about 10 mm sticking out from the pattern following guide...and I'm pretty reluctant to not have the full length of the shaft in the collett..I've had a few bits jump out before at 30000rpm's when doing this and your heart skips a beat thats for sure.

I will look at my laminate trimmer and see a solution I think from what you all say..
Bob , the flush trim top mount bearing idea is probably the go I think ..I was looking into that myself this afternoon. Seems like a good idea to just use the inside walls of the mortise to flush cut once you get the initial cut down deep enough.. That way the template can be made to exact size rather than working out and compensating for the added difference of having a pattern following guide stuck on the end of a router.
thanks all.

[kiwigeo]

Hog out a a dovetail on a mahogany neck and then youll start to wish you had a 1/2" router.

[kiwigeo]

I could alter the top of my jig with maybe a thinner material but even then with the router fully plunged I think I'd be hard pressed to get the required depth..

Grant,

You need to allow for jig and template thickness when building your jig. On my jig the Stewmac template is actually sitting in a recess Ive routed into the top of the jig. You also need to arrange things so the end of the neck blank is sitting as close as possible to the underside of the top of the jig.

If router plunge isnt deep enough then try getting a cutter with a longer shank. There are a few companies selling such cutters. Will search for website address for the company I buy my cutters from.

Cheers Martin

[gratay]

thanks martin ...the recess idea sounds ideal..

[kiwigeo]

Grant,

If youve got the Stewmac dovetail cutter then it comes with a rough plan for a jig. This is what I incorporated in the top of my own jig. I think Ive already posted up some pics of the top of my jig.

One other tip. The pivot point on the cradle that holds the neck needs to be as close as possible to the point on the neck where it butts with the body (ie 12th or 14th fret). This needs to be taken into account along with the plunge of router, thickness of jig top etc.

Cheers Martin

[Urban Sludgewater]

To date, the only router I've used for routes on electric neck pockets, pickup and control cavities, and dovetails on acoustics, is a 2 horse Porter Cable plunge - and I wouldn't have done any of them without it, frankly!

Before I got alternative methods for doing purfling and binding routes, I used it for that too - The weight and size adds a definite measure of steadiness...

Urb

[Ron Wisdom]

I've got a matched pair of Bosch 3 hp plunge routers. I keep one mounted to the router table and use 1/2" shaft, 3/4 bit to cut my mortise on the table. I cut my tenons on the table saw like Cumpiano shows. Works great.

Ron

[Craig]

EDIT : moved this post to seperate thread

[Dennis Leahy]

Craig,

You're good at engineering, I'm sure you could make a plunge base for a laminate trimmer.

I made a reverse-plunge base (springs hold the bit down, instead of up) for a rosette cutter (for my Dremel.) I used pieces of nesting brass tubing to make cheap "linear bearings."

I have a plunge router base for a laminate trimmer in my list of things to do, and will need one if I cut out an access panel near the butt of my guitar for electronics access. My uses for a smaller plunge router would not require a deep plunge (like Grant is asking about.) For that, I have a 3-1/4 HP Porter Cable.



Grant,

Would you consider pre-cutting the mortise into the neck block before the guitar body is assembled? (It won't help if you already have one together that you need to route out, but maybe for future instruments.) I agree that I would not want to have a 1/4" bit extended all the way out. If you do it, follow Kim's advice and take multiple relatively shallow passes. I know you said your jig is finished, but maybe you could consider making a new jig that will allow the router base to contact the body (router rides in the jig rather than on the jig), or one that uses a thinner sheet (maybe 3mm rather than 12mm) if you want the router to ride on the jig.

Dennis

[Bob Connor]

Any recommended models or brands ?

Cheers , Craig

Makita

[Craig]

G'day Grant ,

I do like Ron and Dennis , and cut the mortice in the headblock before assembling the body , as per Cumpiano.

For this I use my bandsaw ( I have it well set-up)and it quickly does a great job. I glue up the sides to overlap this mortice and trim up later on.

Of course if you already have the body done it's of no use to you , except for future reference.

Cheers , Craig

[gratay]

Dennis, Kim ,.... unfortunately the body is completed so I can't do it with this one but I'd definitely look at it for the next..