Steph's Tiger Tenor Uke

[liam_fnq]

I add 2mm of compensation to the front of the nut. I've got a template that hooks over the nut end of the fret board and is the scale length plus 2mm. That way I can snug the bridge with the saddle in it up against the end of the template and drill some 1.5mm holes for locating pins (brads) into the bridge.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks for all the info Jeremy.

Note I stole the headstock shape from your maple tenor.....hope you don't mind. I'm also going to nick the bridge design off the same instrument...I don't like the the basic bridge on the plans I'm working off.

The Waverlys.....chosen because theyre nice tuners but also because they can be installed on a thicker than normal headstock. The neck on my uke was a failed neck from a steel string so I was stuck with a headstock that was around 14mm thick after Id applied the veneers.

The fret file is the vanilla flavoured one not the diamond file......the latter will be added to the tool arsenal with the next Stewmac order.

Cheers Martin

[Allen]

I can't see you going too wrong there Martin.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks guys!

[J.F. Custom]

Thanks for all the info Jeremy.

Note I stole the headstock shape from your maple tenor.....hope you don't mind. I'm also going to nick the bridge design off the same instrument...

Cheers Martin

Geeez Martin, taking liberties aren't you?

I was in fact, going to mention how specifically familiar that headstock was... But, in the interest of keeping the peace you know Besides, much as I did design it myself, who am I to suggest no such design exists elsewhere? So I'll take it as a compliment then; I'm very fond of it, evidently you like it too. Here's another I did in the same style -

JFCustom_Uke_Headstock2.jpg (183.66 KiB) Viewed 15485 times

The bridge on mine is simply a mini classical style bridge. Much as they are fiddly to make at such a size, I really feel they look classy/quality/classic without being too over the top or "trying" to be different. Besides aesthetics though, they are also very functional - able to be crafted very light in weight; about 7-8gm's from memory. Some unfinished Rosewood bridges and an oil coated Ziricote -

JFCustom_Rosewood_Uke_bridges.jpg (120.75 KiB) Viewed 15485 times

JFCustom_Ziri_Uke_bridge.jpg (115.92 KiB) Viewed 15485 times

Jeremy.

[ProfChris]

Martin,

Yes, I think 1mm +3.2 mm saddle should put you in the zone.

Looking forward to hearing how this sounds.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks Chris

[kiwigeo]

Getting there....got the neck shaped today and couldn't resist test fitting the Waverley tuners.

[needsmorecowbel]

It's so confusing looking at pictures of Ukes because they always look so big. Then you get a great picture of it next to a small picture in the paper or a hand/ arm and you go "That's better".

[Dennis Leahy]

Happy belated birthday, Martin!

Your sis is getting a gorgeous uke!

Dennis

[kiwigeo]

Thanks Dennis......

Yeah Sis should like this cute little uke.

[kiwigeo]

More questions for the ukeologists.

I'm designing a classical style bridge for my uke. String height off top at saddle position is 11.0m (this is allowing for 2.5mm action at 12th fret). I plan to make the bridge a tad over 7mm thick which will leave just over 3mm of saddle protruding above top of bridge. Saddle slot will be 3-4mm depth. Bridge will be 25mm front to back. Width of bridge will be sufficient to accomodate string spread plus 15mm wings either side.

The above dimensions allow for about 4square inches of gluing surface which according to David Hurd is sufficient for a tenor uke.

Any comments on above would be appreciated.

[Allen]

With a tie bridge mine are 100mm wide and 22mm deep. String spacing at either 42mm or 45mm depending on buyers preference.

Your specs are certainly within the norm Martin.

[kiwigeo]

Thanks Allen!

[J.F. Custom]

Hi Martin.

I answered a PM of yours but for the benefit of a broader audience who may be reading and interested...

My dimensions for the classical style Tenor bridges pictured above, come in (by happenstance) at the same size Allen mentioned - approx. 22mm by 100mm.

David Hurd suggests a 2.5" square gluing area on a bridge is required for a Tenor, calculated by string tension and extrapolated using the classical guitar design as a reference. However, he suggests he has had success in his several hundred instruments using a 4" square gluing area in his design. The dimensions I (and Allen) have provided give about about 3.5" square.

Quoting David Hurd -

"...the smallest ukuleles shouldn't have miniature classical bridge shapes because all of the area is used as a stiffener as well as glue area. "Wings" on a soprano are probably extraneous, adding excess stiffness to the top."

"My own tenor bridges have about 4 in2 of area and that middle range value has worked well for me for several hundred instruments."

"Tenors and baritones could be either 1" depth with small "wings" or 7/8" with slightly larger "wings"."

Anyway, hopefully you are not being led too far astray if you land somewhere between our advice and that of David!

Cheers Martin.

Jeremy.

[kiwigeo]

Today spent working up the bridge. The wings could probably be a bit wider but I'll live with what Ive ended up with.

[kiwigeo]

More delays at work so more progress on the uke. After tossing up between FP and a truoil finish I went for FP....mainly because it's what Im familiar with. After brushing on two seal coats of shellac (1.5lb cut) the wood looked slightly porey so I did a light pore filling session with pumice on the Tiger Myrtle and the mahogany neck. Pictures were taken after 2 bodying sessions on back and sides. Shellac is LMI super blonde and oil I'm using is walnut oil.

[auscab]

Nice one Martin. Your sister will be happy with that.
Do you know if Walnut oil goes off after a while ?
I was speaking to a client about it ,she said she had an old bottle of it that I can have.

[kiwigeo]

Nice one Martin. Your sister will be happy with that.
Do you know if Walnut oil goes off after a while ?
I was speaking to a client about it ,she said she had an old bottle of it that I can have.

Rob,

The walnut oil I use has a use by date on the bottle...usually about 12 months from date of bottling. Ive got a bottle thats 2 years old and its starting to smell like its a bit off. The stuff Im using on the uke was bought 3 weeks ago.

[Craig]

That's a beautiful looking little Uke there Martin. Steph is going to be thrilled.

Do you know if Walnut oil goes off after a while ?
I was speaking to a client about it ,she said she had an old bottle of it that I can have.

Rob, Check the oil , many contain additives.

[kiwigeo]

Another dragging project but at last theres light at the end of the tunnel. French polishing is finished and today I got the bridge on and nut and saddle roughed up. Tomorrow the instrument should be singing.

[kiwigeo]

First friggin' instrument Ive finished in a while. I started this one on Jan 22nd this year...my birthday.

[kiwigeo]

Finished...see gallery for pics.

[simso]

I like the headstock shape, very nice

[kiwigeo]

I like the headstock shape, very nice

Stolen from Jeremy F.... ditto for the bridge.