Bulls Eye Shellac

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Nick
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Nick » Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:16 pm

Hi Paul, I too grabbed a tin of the Zinser of which you speak from bunnings when I saw it on the shelf once. So thrilled at having actually got hold a real tin of Zinser Bulls eye was I that I didn't bother to read the writing on the tin! Imagine my dissappointment when I got back to the workshop & found I'd only got a nice tin of the wrong stuff!
I contacted the distributor here in NZ who told me the sanding sealer (dewaxed) was available in NZ but the 'agents' didn't hold stock on the shelves, I had to go to the shop & pre order the stuff & they would get a tin down for me within a couple of days. The cost was something else! can't remember exactly but I think it was something like $45 a litre :shock: even the distributor admitted it was expensive stuff.
I use a Briwax product, sorry my memory escapes me as to what it's called, I can check when I get back into the shop. But it is waxy so I only ever use it to seal the inside of the body. Exterior I pore fill with Wests then spray urethane. Some people use Tru-Oil quite effectively as a rubbed on finish (recently saw an all Sapele Weisennborn done this way & it looked great!) so if you are after a simple finish to start out with then maybe do some research along those lines? If you want to spray then PPG do a good range of different finishes, nitro (262 speedlac), precat, urethane (although these are trickier to apply in that well vented spray area & a hood is required) & they sell in one litre quantities. Here's alink to their data sheets for all the wood finishes they do.

When I first started spraying I used (and still do if it's a solid colour required) the Acrylic Lacquer you get from car spray shops. Does the job well but you have to make sure you don't spray too thick & give it plenty of time to cure & harden (about 4 weeks) before cutting it back.
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by pavliku » Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:58 pm

I thought I would use this thread as the question I want to ask is related to the first question.

So I finally got some blonde shellac flakes from here in nz at a reasonable price.

The next problem is finding the clear meths.

The question: - Is the product sold as fuelite,( know as, Pegasol AA (moble), Britolite (BP), Calite (caltex), also know as clear petrol or white spirits) ok to use in place of clear meths (denatured alcohol) as medium to desolve shellac?

This product is easy to find in quantities of a litre - denatured alcohol, I must either buy in very small or very large quantities.

Thanks
Paul

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by liam_fnq » Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:29 pm

Ii'm in the same boat. The hardware meths is 95% meths, 5% crap so I'm off the the local chemical retailers to get high quality meths. Try local mobs that supply bulk cleaning chemicals

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Mike Thomas » Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:46 pm

I get my 100% meths from the local paint shop in Hobart. It's more expensive than the 95% hardware store stuff, as you'd expect, but readily available.
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Kim » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:27 pm

liam_fnq wrote:Ii'm in the same boat. The hardware meths is 95% meths, 5% crap so I'm off the the local chemical retailers to get high quality meths. Try local mobs that supply bulk cleaning chemicals
My advice Liam is to buy only small amounts often rather than assuming more is cheaper and therefore better.

Meths is very hygroscopic..so much so that 100% pure alcohol is only ever really achieved in a closed, controlled situation. The vast majority of the 5% crap you have referred to is plain water. As I understand, the challenges in the process of producing pure alcohol have similarities to drag racing. Initial improvements of outcome are huge and easy won for little effort or investment. But that one hundredth of a second that really matters takes an enormous amount of effort and money to achieve, and anything at 'that' level of refinement requires a very high degree of maintenance if it is to continue to produce the desired outcome.

Getting back to meths, this translates to doing whatever you can to prevent the uptake of moisture from the atmosphere, and if you live and play in tropical Townsville, then my guess is that you will have your work cut out to maintain anything but a small bottle of 5% crap free meths, to be any better than the stuff you currently get from down the local hardware.

The reason why the 5% crap stuff is so cheap is simply because the hygroscopic nature of alcohol begins to diminish at that level, i.e that is the stop point at which gains in outcome of process cease to be big and cheap, it also means that the hardware stuff is easier to maintain. That is not to say that its no longer hygroscopic at 5%, it just means that it is 'less' hygroscopic, so you especially, given that you 'do' actually work and play in tropical Townsville, should make a point of always buying small, and keeping the container capped if you are to avoid polluting the meths more, even when your dealing with the cheap stuff.

With that I put a post up in the "paint stripper" thread the other day that demonstrates how I address the issue of exposure and product conservation when in use and I re-post it below because it may be helpful to someone looking at this topic later.
As for easy handling and to prevent contamination from exposure to air, I decant shellite and metho into aluminum fuel bottles used by back packers. Mine are Swiss made Sigg brand and are really good, but unfortunately no longer made by that company as they are not a pressure container as has become so popular with MRS stoves. But there are other Sigg knock offs much cheaper than the originals.

The feature to look for in any of these bottles is in the cap. It has two holes drilled on opposite sides of the plastic thread not far below the seal. The smaller of the two acts as a breather and the larger of the two, indicated externally by a dot mark in the molding, acts as a spout. When you want product, you simply loosen the cap about half way and then pour an easily controlled flow from the spout without excessive exposure of the product to the air. This is not only good for the products shelf life, it conserves the products because you only take what you need instead of glugging it all over a rag, and because the bottles are aluminum or stainless, its no real hazard if you drop or knock them in the work shop and the loop in the top makes them easy to hang up and out of the way.

Just a warning, a lot of these bottles are lined inside to make them suitable for drinking water..I am not certain that some fuel would not react with this lining. My old Siggs are fuel specific and are not lined, I would recommend looking finding a knock off that is unlined and if the cap does not have the holes, drill them.

Here is an image of a Sigg 'fuel' bottle I found on the net....note it is plain ali so you know its for fuel, I painted mine red for shellite and blue for metho...you can see the dot mark on the lid indicating where the pour hole is located.

Image
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Mike Thomas » Fri Jun 24, 2011 5:38 pm

It's very true what you say about the hygroscopic nature of meths, Kim. When I last bought it, I got a 4 litre can of the 100% stuff, and also 8 500ml empty cans, with proper seals, from the paint shop (Taspaints for those who live in Hobart). I put the heater on in my small workshop and got the RH down to around 25%, and decanted the meths from the 4 litre into the 500ml cans.
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Kim » Fri Jun 24, 2011 6:52 pm

Mike Thomas wrote:I put the heater on in my small workshop and got the RH down to around 25%, and decanted the meths from the 4 litre into the 500ml cans.
Clever lad 8)

I grabbed the above image of the Sigg bottle from the net but it does not show the actual holes drilled in the threads so I went out and took some quick and dirty images of my own to show more detail...yes it is only a small thing, but it is very helpful especially in allowing accurate control of the flow of product....

This is the very top of the screw top showing the banding.
topoftop.JPG
Here you can see both holes, the larger in the forefront of the image, and where they have been drilled in relation to the seal...note also the dot to give external indication of the spout location as you unscrew the top.
2holes.JPG
This image is a goofy attempt to show the consistent flow stream of product (Naphtha) that the vented hole delivers. Yes this will still pull moisture laden air into the bottle, but it will only allow the minimum of exposure and much less than leaving the bottle uncapped while you sloshing it around on a rag.
flow.JPG
And here are my two bottles, one painted red for naphtha, and the other blue for meths, hanging up out of the way and ready for use.
hangin.JPG
As mentioned Sigg no longer make these 'unlined' "Fuel" bottles but they do come up at swap-meets and such and are worth keeping an eye out for, even if you do need to assert you authority over some unwashed backpacker to lay first claim. Alternatively there are plenty of asian knockoffs, just look for a straight unlined aluminum bottle and if it does not have the required holes then drill them yourself.

Cheers

Kim

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by pavliku » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:07 pm

So can I use white spirits in place of alcohol?

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by kiwigeo » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:16 pm

pavliku wrote:So can I use white spirits in place of alcohol?
For french polishing? I think you'll have a problem getting the shellac flakes to dissolve in white spirits.
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by DarwinStrings » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:18 pm

Hi Paul, I think the "white spirits" you are talking about is Naphtha/Shellite judging on your earlier post and it is really different to alcohol. Alcohol is water soluble and "white spirits" is not, two very different beasts so my guess is that you can not use it for shellac.

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by kiwigeo » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:22 pm

kiwigeo wrote:
pavliku wrote:So can I use white spirits in place of alcohol?
For french polishing? I think you'll have a problem getting the shellac flakes to dissolve in white spirits.
If the flakes do dissolve in white spirits I think french polishing using white spirits presents health and safety issues.
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by DarwinStrings » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:50 pm

liam_fnq wrote:Ii'm in the same boat. The hardware meths is 95% meths, 5% crap so I'm off the the local chemical retailers to get high quality meths. Try local mobs that supply bulk cleaning chemicals
Now I am not 100% sure about what exactly the all of the other 5% is in hardware Metho is but on the bottles it says "95% v/v Ethanol" I assume that part of what goes to make up the other 5% is Methanol and it may well be 5% Methanol. I assume everyone knows that the Methanol is added so that we can't have cheap fruit punch at parties or maybe after having been to a few parties where the party throwers had access to surgical Ethanol it is the governments way of saving us from the sort of hangovers that that sort of party punch can dish out, hmmmm am I being over optimistic about our governments concern for our well being?

Jim
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by simso » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:53 pm

Ive gotten a bit lost in this post, so Ill just jump in. When using shellac I only use methylated sprits not white spirits. White spirits is just another name for mineral turps which will not work with shellac.
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by DarwinStrings » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:56 pm

simso wrote:Ive gotten a bit lost in this post, so Ill just jump in. When using shellac I only use methylated sprits not white spirits. White spirits is just another name for mineral turps which will not work with shellac.
Okay now it is more confusing Simso as white spirits in Australia is a dry cleaning solvent and is not mineral turps, they are two totally different beasts.

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by simso » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:32 pm

Nah its all easy.

White spirits is a hydrocarbon solvent (not alcohol)
Mineral Turps is a white spirit hydrocarbon solvent (not alcohol)
Methylated spirits is an alcohol solvent

Shellac needs an alcohol based solvent to dissolve
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Kim » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:43 pm

What is the big issue with the same plain old metho that has been used for FP for years??? OK I will readily admit that I do not have 'any' worth while experience with FP done with my own hand, but I had watched a pro restorer at work on many occasion years back....and guess what....top of the wazza antiques worth thousands finished with shellac dissolved in plain old hardware variety metho.

What was I doing in his workshop so often to discover that? Well I was driving the furniture van dropping off and picking up his work that was flying out the door as quick as I could cart it back to his clients which included many of the higher end antique shops in Perth metro, and a number of the highest end furniture importer/retails who took him on for scratch and dent repairs to new, ridiculously priced hand built pieces, that often received damage in transit from Europe. Why was he so busy? Because he was a typical pommy craftsman, traditionally trained by highly skilled masters who take pride in their occupation to such an extent that they just can't allow 'good enough' to seep into the new blood and destroy their right to be respected for what they do. In other words like so many other pommy tradies I've met, this guy was fast, reliable, yet so meticulous that every job was a winner and NOTHING would be returned as unsatisfactory.

Yes I can see that using a more pure metho would be a 'better' thing, but I wonder how many people out their ignore their own lack of skill and knowledge as soon as they find something else to blame..I wonder how many leave the lid off their mix and meths completely oblivious to the fact it is all the time absorbing moisture from the air....basic thing I guess but problem enough to cause disaster, and it is not something everyone understands...unless of course they completed the 5 years under the guidance of masters that it takes to know all the secrets of the trade....trade...think about that for a minute..every day for 5 years doing the same thing under the careful guidance of those who know and understand their craft intimately because it has been their life's work and they know all of the pit falls and all of the tricks...5 years under the eyes of masters is nothing like a few guitars worth on your own in your shed struggling to reinvent the wheel and find solutions for yourself......And with that, even when it all starts coming together and your at last quite happy with what you have done, was it 'really' the everclear that made it all work, or was more to do with what you had learned along the way from your failing??

I am sure that Jim will completely understand what I am talking about with regards to pommy tradesmen. There really is something very special about the way the English tradesmen respect their trades and the level of commitment they demand from those who seek to make their life from sharing in their passion.

As for white spirit and shellac, don't ask yourself 'if' it would work, ask yourself why would you want it to when the proper product is so readily available, cheaper, and safer to use.....just keep the bloody top on the bottle and understand that top shelf results are highly unlikely for those still crawling to understand the basics of a skill so highly regarded that it is in fact an acknowledged 'trade'.

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Kim » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:50 pm

simso wrote:Nah its all easy.
Mineral Turps is a white spirit hydrocarbon solvent (not alcohol)
As Jim said not in AU Simso, nip down to bunnings and have a look in the paint section for yourself..turpentine is not white spirts (I believe it is know as that in the UK but not here)..white spirits in AU is shelite/naphtha with a dash of retarder added to increase the flash point and make it safer to use... turps in AU is used to thin and clean oil based paints/enamels and is a mineral version of pure gum turpentine that is extracted from plant matter.

Turps: http://www.recochem.com.au/index.php/pr ... turpentine

White Spirits: http://www.recochem.com.au/index.php/pr ... te_spirits

EDIT: I do see your point that both are essentially hydrocarbons. I was confused by your description for turps as a "white spirit" hydrocarbon solvent..the two products certainly are both solvents to, but that do have their firm differences in application and that needs to be made clear in this thread as there is already so much confusion about some pretty basic stuff.

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by kiwigeo » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:09 pm

Kim wrote:
And here are my two bottles, one painted red for naphtha, and the other blue for meths, hanging up out of the way and ready for use.
Not trying to be cocky but I'd be looking at putting labels on those bottles. Colour coding is fine but if anyone else wanders into your shop they won't have a clue what's in the bottles. :D

Me being anal..maybe but Ive just spend half an hour explaining to one of my Mudloggers out here at work why storing bacteriocide in an unmarked lemonade bottle is a very bad idea. :-?
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Kim » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:25 pm

No one is allowed to do any work in 'my' shed but me Marty...my shed, my tools, my rules, my bottles, my colour codes, no labels required. If someone comes into 'my' shed and ask me, what's in those two bottles Kim?? I will ask to see their badge.....and should they produce one that forces me to acknowledge their right to question, I will ask to see their search warrant, and should they produce one that I am then forced to acknowledge and then repeat their question, I shall look at them very sternly and say..................fluids 8)

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by simso » Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:29 pm

Kim wrote: I do see your point that both are essentially hydrocarbons. I was confused by your description for turps as a "white spirit" hydrocarbon solvent..
Apologies, I did not mean to confuse the situation, we mix a fresh cup of turps and shellac almost every day, my favorite restoration mix

Regarding the mixes,
alcohol means its made from things like Propanol, Methanol, and so forth noptice the (ol)
Hydrocarbon is made form hydrogen and carbon, white spirits and mineral turps are both hydrocarbon based, I was a bit blasay by saying they are the same,
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by Kim » Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:04 am

DarwinStrings wrote:
liam_fnq wrote:Ii'm in the same boat. The hardware meths is 95% meths, 5% crap so I'm off the the local chemical retailers to get high quality meths. Try local mobs that supply bulk cleaning chemicals
Now I am not 100% sure about what exactly the all of the other 5% is in hardware Metho is but on the bottles it says "95% v/v Ethanol" I assume that part of what goes to make up the other 5% is Methanol and it may well be 5% Methanol. I assume everyone knows that the Methanol is added so that we can't have cheap fruit punch at parties or maybe after having been to a few parties where the party throwers had access to surgical Ethanol it is the governments way of saving us from the sort of hangovers that that sort of party punch can dish out, hmmmm am I being over optimistic about our governments concern for our well being?

Jim

Jim,

You are correct that Methanol or some other denaturing agent is added to bottled metho to prevent it from being consumed as cheap booze. However the denaturing additive should NOT be included at all when considering the active ingredient on the label. From my understanding to assume that the denaturing additive must make up the 'alleged' missing 5% of "95%v/v Ethanol" to make 100% of the contents in the bottle is wrong simply because "95%v/v Ethanol" is presented as advice of purity for the ethanol 'azetrope' that remains after distillation and 'before' anything is added to it.

So even if you were to somehow remove the denaturing additive from the formulation entirely, the bottle could still only ever contain "95%v/v Ethanol" because that is purest form of ethanol that 'simple' distillation as employed by manufacturers of metho is able to achieve. So the reality is that its not actually ethanol, its an ethanol azeotrope. In other words it is a combination of liquids that cannot be broken by simple distillation and what remains is 95% pure ethanol and this is why it only cost a couple of bucks a bottle to buy and they can still make money.

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&sourc ... WJl0NAl-9Q

Now, if we want to remove that 5% from the azeotope that is polluting our Ethanol so we can produce an absolute, then we need to go back to my drag racing analogy where big bucks and effort are required for little gain, and that is exactly what happens when you move into azeotropic distillation. This requires the addition of more substances that will target the impurities to form a second, 'low boil' azetrope which upon distillation will effectively break the first azetrope and scavenge the impurities from the ethanol to leave behind an absolute.

But now we have that high maintenance issue I mentioned earlier because our hard won absolute is a very unstable substance......we all get a bit like that if left in isolation for too long, so as soon as you take the lid of your bottle of pure ethanol, it will degrade very rapidly to 96%, because that is where it want to be, and it wants to be there so much that its molecules will actively suck water right from the air until the the solution is 96% ethanol and 4% water and then it will settle down into a normal hygroscopic pattern and degrade more gradually as more water is drawn into the solution to make it more stable. Google has told me (with no great authority) that if left long enough with adequate moisture in the air, this process will eventually stop at a 1:1 ratio.... :shock:

So what does this mean for our hardware grade metho?? Is the "95%v/v Ethanol" referred to on the label 'really' free of water??....Very unlikely, the fact that the ethanol is in an azeotropic solution does not mean that the attraction is lost between ethanol and water. So yes, at the time of distillation 95%v/v Ethanol was probably accurate, but unless extraordinary measures where taken with air driers and whatnot employed during bulk storage, decanting and bottling, then there is little chance that it would be still accurate by the time you first take the lid off the bottle, and the truth is that what's most likely to be in the bottle when you get it home...and this also goes for products such as Everclear labeled as 200% proof, is the original ethanol represented by % of purity at the time of distillation + any impurity that formed the remainder of the azeotropic solution + at least 4% water unless you where paying an extraordinary amount of money for lab grade + any additives to cause denaturing....and the last two of those are never mentioned on a bottle of metho and really when it comes down to it, what could you really expect for a couple of bucks.

And here's one out of the woods....if you have a graduated beaker containing 'exactly' 1000ml of absolute ethanol and you expose it to moist air for a few minutes so it takes up 4% water, you could easily assume that the beaker would now hold 1040ml....wrong again, it is likely to be closer to 1030ml and no, 10ml of ethanol did not evaporate...apparently this has something to do with the oxygen atoms in the ethanol being so attracted to the hydrogen atoms in water that it makes the solution more dense...so yes, the weight of the 40mls of water is now there, but the solution has not increase in volume as one would expect.

If you think about that for a moment, the strength of that attraction, of oxygen to hydrogen being so great that it changes the 'density' of the solution, its really a form of compression of the solution itself...Yeah I know, that is probably not a very scientific view because we all know that liquid's cannot be compressed. But what I am saying here is that to my unscientific mind, we have a process at play that is much more than simply hygroscopic in its nature where water is gradually drawn to a receptor.....this is different, its a powerful reaction of a highly unstable substance that actively 'pulls' water from the air with such veracity that it increases in weight but not so much by volume...so don't wonder why you wake with such a dry mouth after a night out with the lads.....ethanol/alcohol is very much a sponge and it is literally sucking the water right out of you....best keep a lid on it when doing FP I recon. :wink:

Cheers

Kim

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by DarwinStrings » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:46 am

Kim wrote:Jim,

You are correct that Methanol or some other denaturing agent is added to bottled metho to prevent it from being consumed as cheap booze. However the denaturing additive should NOT be included at all when considering the active ingredient on the label. From my understanding to assume that the denaturing additive must make up the 'alleged' missing 5% of "95%v/v Ethanol" to make 100% of the contents in the bottle is wrong simply because "95%v/v Ethanol" is presented as advice of purity for the ethanol 'azetrope' that remains after distillation and 'before' anything is added to it.

So even if you were to somehow remove the denaturing additive from the formulation entirely, the bottle could still only ever contain "95%v/v Ethanol" because that is purest form of ethanol that 'simple' distillation as employed by manufacturers of metho is able to achieve. So the reality is that its not actually ethanol, its an ethanol azeotrope. In other words it is a combination of liquids that cannot be broken by simple distillation and what remains is 95% pure ethanol and this is why it only cost a couple of bucks a bottle to buy and they can still make money.
Nice one, thanks for clearing that up Kim and that is why I use the word "assume" not "know". I had got the point that water was in the mix but did know know that this was the way the v/v worked as a description of contents.
kiwigeo wrote:
Kim wrote:
And here are my two bottles, one painted red for naphtha, and the other blue for meths, hanging up out of the way and ready for use.
Not trying to be cocky but I'd be looking at putting labels on those bottles. Colour coding is fine but if anyone else wanders into your shop they won't have a clue what's in the bottles. :D

:lol: :lol: :lol: Martin you crack me up....Hey Kim, did you clean your teeth today?

Jim

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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by DarwinStrings » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:59 am

Kim wrote:What is the big issue with the same plain old metho that has been used for FP for years??? OK I will readily admit that I do not have 'any' worth while experience with FP done with my own hand, but I had watched a pro restorer at work on many occasion years back....and guess what....top of the wazza antiques worth thousands finished with shellac dissolved in plain old hardware variety metho.
Same experience here Kim, the French polisher I worked beside in the U.K used garden variety Metho from the hardware to do all his work from restorations to doors I had just finished making.

Jim
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by kiwigeo » Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:44 am

DarwinStrings wrote:
:lol: :lol: :lol: Martin you crack me up....Hey Kim, did you clean your teeth today?

Jim

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Unfortunately Jim there's a serious side to my post. Last year I was on a job where a rough neck picked up what he thought was a bottle of Sprite lemonade. One of his workmates had filled the bottle with rig wash...a very aggressive detergent we use to clean the decks with. The roughneck drank a mouthful of rig wash and ended with serious burns to the inside of his mouth.....he ended up being medivaced from the rig. He survived but he hasn't worked on a rig since that incident. Just the other day I spied a bottle in one of the work areas I frequent. On one side of the bottle it read "demineralised water"...on the other side it read "bacteriocide".

Chemicals stored in unlabeled or mislabeled containers account for a significant number of accidental poisoning cases every year.

Cheers Martin
Martin

jeffhigh
Blackwood
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Re: Bulls Eye Shellac

Post by jeffhigh » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:40 am

Once you get your 2lb cut using metho, if you want a high build, quick drying mix for french polishing that has some degree of porefilling ability, you can try the Brian Burns mix. Cut your 2ib cut with an equal volume of acetone, apply with a rubber but without using oil. in place of your spit coats and build coats.
Not IMHO quite adequate for porefilling rosewood but good enough for a cedar or mahogany neck by itself.

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