Building board or guitar mold?

[Bullet]

Hi there,
I am building my first guitar and am currently making my jigs etc (my fox side bender is coming along nicely!).

I was wanting some advice in relation to the assembly - is it easier to assemble as per the Jim Williams method, ie on a building board with dowels and wing nuts holding the sides in place or (ii) create a form out of multiple layers of ply and placing the sides inside it for construction?

I already have a Jim Williams type building board made just wondering what is easier.

Regards,

[kiwigeo]

Horses for courses.

For a classical with an integral neck and soundboard the work board is the best method. For steel strings with separate neck and body I use the workboard to build the body or I'll do it in a mold. One con with an external formis you need a different form for each different body shape youre building. With the workboard you can build a number of different sized and shaped bodies using the same workboard and simply adjusting the dowels or blocks to suit.

Note that if youre following the Jim Williams book then youll have to use a workboard as the book follows the spanish method of construction.

[Kim]

Hey Bullet (how about a name in your signature), welcome to the ANZLF

I think the main difference is that the work board (solera) is more flexible as one board can handle many different size and shaped guitars. The down side to this is in its ability to repeat the same shape to any exacting degree. This is where the mold stands out alone. If you build a mold for a particular shape, you can build another guitar the same very accurately and this is important should you wish to develop your own sound 'and' use your completed instruments as representation of what a prosective customer can expect of your guitars. The down side is that you will use a lot of material to make lots of molds and then you need to store them and they take a up a good bit of space.

If you were a pro builder a mold for each shape would probably be justifiable, but for most its a middle of the road thing. This is to say that for the most popular shapes such as SJ, Dred, and OM, it may be worth the effort to build a mold if you intend building a lot of guitars, but for the one off's maybe a workboard is a more sensible approach. Of course if you follow the mold method, chances are that you would also end up making bending forms to ensure easy and accurate fit of the sides to your mold so you can see that this all equates to much material and ongoing storage.

With this in mind my advice, if you intend to stay with this craft for more than just a guitar or two, is make your first a popular shape that you know you will use again in the future. Then build a mold and form for that shape only and tackle others as they come up in the future based upon what you feel at that time. If on the other hand you feel that you will only build a single instrument, build a board. At least it will be useful latter for the one off's if the bug bites hard.

Cheers

Kim

[Bullet]

Martin & Kim,

Thanks heaps for your advice, pretty much as I thought but it is always good to get these things confirmed.

This is my first guitar and I have already built the board so will stick with this method for this one. Kim you are spot on though insofar as if I wish to build a unique shape or even one or two different shaped guitars down the track then no dramas having the board there ready to go, rather than having to build the molds. I do like the idea of molds though to short cut the process down the track (I have a bit of a passion for the j200 shape!).

Martin you mentioned the JW method is for Spanish guitars - is this also ok for steel string? Is there a better template/pro forma to follow in your opinion?

Thanks again guys for your speedy feedback

Regards,

Jason

(Newtown - VIC)

[kiwigeo]

Martin you mentioned the JW method is for Spanish guitars - is this also ok for steel string? Is there a better template/pro forma to follow in your opinion?

(Newtown - VIC)

Hi Jason,

I built my first guitar following the Jim Williams method....nothing wrong with it. The beauty of the Spanish method is you don't have a body/neck joint to deal with so construction is simplified. The downside is if a neck reset becomes necessary somewhere down the track then the back will have to come off the back of the guitar and the Spanish Foot will need shimming up.

The JM method in my opinion is ideal for a first build but if you intend carrying on with more steel string builds then I'd recommend going for a build method where body and neck are built as separate units. This the path Ive followed with my building.

All the above aside, the OM I built using the JW method is still doing service with a working musician 6 years after it was built and doesn't show any signs of needing any work.

Cheers Martin

[Bullet]

Martin,

Fantastic, thanks for the advice.

When I progress to the separate neck and body method, where do u recommend I go for templates etc? I must say the JW book is pretty good for me being a first timer !

Cheers Jason

[Allen]

I'm in the same camp as Martin. Solera for nylon strings using a Spanish heel. Solid body mould for steel strings with a bolt on neck.

Plans for body's can be had from tracings of existing guitars, or the many paper plans available. It's how I've done all of mine.

You can also design your own. With a bit of experience about bracing layout, and sizes of typical reference models you can come up with something that is pretty representative of a commercial model, or something totally different. Just make sure that you can get a case to fit it.

[kiwigeo]

Martin,

Fantastic, thanks for the advice.

When I progress to the separate neck and body method, where do u recommend I go for templates etc? I must say the JW book is pretty good for me being a first timer !

Cheers Jason

The templates for my dreadnaughts came from a friends Deadnaught.....I just traced around the guitar. For brace placement I just work that out myself..its not hard.

[J.F. Custom]

Hi Jason.

I modified both ideas into one unit - A solera/mould in one. This way, either build style is possible so far as neck construction is concerned. I feel it gives me the best of both worlds and is still very flexible. Even if you want a different body shape as a one off, the sides simply lift off. This is a Tenor Ukulele model. The base - solera is dished to a 25' radius and the sides have a small 5mm x 3mm rebate on the edge to allow the overhang of the soundboard to tuck neatly under. The little wedge on the neck extension sets the neck at the correct angle. There are internal blocks for the mould too (not pictured), that maintain shape should there be any spring-back in the side bending. The side moulds are held by bolts with wing nuts and removal of two will allow the sides to slide via a groove, back or forth (in or out) if desired. Anyway, a picture is worth a thousand words.

If you have any questions, let me know. Otherwise, I hope it helps.

Jeremy.

[Bullet]

Jeremy, impressive stuff, your set up is excellent.

I think I'll attack this without a mold and see how I go. Will probably make a mold down the track.

Cheers, Jason